The broader cultural influence tennis has gained in the past few years is evident through the role it is playing within the fashion world. Philipp Plein has certainly fallen for it, focusing his new collection—presented on the first anniversary of the opening of his Plein Hotel in Milan—on the theme. However, the German designer used to play tennis himself “when players used wooden rackets,” as he put it with a laugh, so the sport has always fascinated him personally. Backstage, he recalled the charm and elegance of big champions of the past such as Andre Agassi during “a period back in the ’80s when tennis was all about class.” That’s why a preppy aesthetic was the leitmotif of the whole collection, with a focus on fun as seen through Plein’s lens.
The opener was a sophisticated white woven leather trench, with intricate workmanship also translated into other proposals: in earthy tones for blousons and corsets and for men’s separates with a chevron motif. There were also varsity jackets and an ensemble in cable knitwear with an amusing French bulldog and a teddy bear envisioned as expert players. The vintage inspiration was also interpreted through strass patches and decorations with a series of retro ice cream graphics that enhanced the funny side of the collection.
If the first part of the show was preppier and lighter, the second part went full glamour with sensual bedazzled gowns in bright tones such as yellow and pink, as well as the strass-encrusted blazers with matching thigh-high boots. A studded biker jacket and a graffiti-like strass ice cream–motif blazer closed the show with elegance, together with a sparkling pinstripe suit and a black silk dress with flowers on the spaghetti straps.
