Jackson Wiederhoeft did not show in New York in February. “We were developing a collection for fall, and then I was just feeling honestly it wasn’t ready,” they said backstage after their first show in a year, held at their midtown atelier. It was a smaller, more pared-back affair than their theatrical presentations of the past, but the intimacy allowed onlookers to observe the intricacy of the designer’s work up close.
Wiederhoeft said, “It was so joyful to be able to work on these ideas for a year; I took so many risks, and there was so much newness that was exciting and fun for me.” The fil coupé fabric used on the skirt of the second and third gowns, for example, was made of georgette woven with a mix of vintage and new metallic threads and took 10 months to develop. The diversity of the offering was noticeably smaller than previous seasons—Wiederhoeft seemed to have mostly done away with more casual or ready-to-wear pieces, and most of the looks were variations on the classic corseted gown—but there was plenty to be dazzled by. “The collection is called Lost Works,” they explained. “It is about a sense of rediscovery. When I was doing research, if I was between two things, I would always try to choose what was unexpected.”
Perhaps most unexpected was Wiederhoeft’s introduction of suiting and other “sturdier” fabrics not usually associated with eveningwear, like a slim strapless gown in a peachy brushed wool and a black corset and skirt, both made of wool twill suiting and adorned with hand-embellished details. This season, Wiederhoeft also included two menswear suits with great promise—a classic double-breasted black twill suit, and another with a more Wiederhoeftian twist made from stretch viscose and with a “shadow” print of baby’s breath, which the designer drew by projecting the flowers onto their studio wall. As bridal continues to play a big role in Wiederhoeft’s business, it makes sense to also dip a toe into suiting. “We took a break from menswear because, honestly, we didn’t have the clientele,” they said. “We’re rebranding the showroom into the salon, and as we gather more information and research from the clients, I want the grooms to be in on the business too.”
