Fetico’s Emi Funayama deals in unapologetically lusty clothes—Fetico is a nickname taken from the word ‘fetish’—which sets her apart in the decidedly non-lusty Japanese fashion market. Now 37, she had spent the past season feeling uneasy about ageing out of what wider society perceives as girlhood. “When I started creating this collection, I was concerned about the negative feelings women feel about getting older, and how we think about aging,” she said. “I realized how sad it was that as we get older, society tells us there’s so many things we should or shouldn’t do, and we can lose our sense of freedom.”
And so this season she delved into her own sense of girlhood to protect it from those who would steal it. She called the collection Eternal Favorites, in reference to some of her best-loved things, and invited us to enjoy them too. The Addams Family, the macabre (but also cute) picture books of Edward Gorey, and Hans Bellmer’s unsettling dolls served as her starting points. Each came through in the crucifix slashes on velvet dresses that exposed flashes of skin, the funereal veils that covered the face, white collars and velvet ribbons worthy of Wednesday Addams, and Victorian-style lace-up boots. It was a gothic feast with just the right balance of the coquette, great casting, and plenty of sensual, wearable pieces that Fetico’s growing fanbase will delight in.
And yet somehow it felt like she could have gone further with it. Funayama is an exciting talent that has become a highlight of the Tokyo schedule, and she’s set the bar high for herself. Did she meet it this time? There were flashes of newness, but a few ideas––like the bralets and the ruched bodycon dresses––we’d seen from Fetico before. There’s nothing wrong with having go-to staples, but Fetico’s identity has established a singular enough presence that it would be good to see it stretched a little more. Funayama has the design knowhow and the intelligence to go far. Now’s the time to push.
