Harunobu Murata is a modern sophisticate who draws on the philosophies of his favorite artists or historical figures. This time he chose Constantin Brancusi’s sculptures and photographs of the English racing driver Dorothy Levitt, and showed his collection in the basement level of Kudan House, a tasteful, Spanish style mansion in Tokyo’s Chiyoda neighborhood.
In particular he was inspired by Levitt’s book The Woman and the Car, a pioneering work from 1909 that encouraged women to get behind the wheel. “I felt a sense of elegance in that,” Murata said after the show. “I wanted to give a hint to it in the collection, so I intentionally incorporated a slightly industrial atmosphere and some workwear.”
Silk wool dresses were slit asymmetrically at the hipbone with knitted panels that made for a flattering and sophisticated take on the cut-out trend. Other shirts were gathered into sculptural abstract buckles (a nod to Brancusi), while still more wrapped elegantly around the throat like built-in scarves. (“One of the most important articles of wear is a scarf or muffler for the neck,” wrote Levitt in her book.) Another charming detail: the gradients of blues and greens across the dresses were intended to evoke the blur of scenery while driving through the country, and gave a breath of fresh air to some of the darker, heavier moments in the collection.
Murata, who used to work at Jil Sander under Luke and Lucie Meier, has something of a mild-mannered couturier about him; you imagine that if he had been around 40 years ago he would have been a kind of Japanese Victor Edelstein. With Levitt’s influence, his dresses this season were especially empowering and considerate. Some included armholes with optional sleeves that could also be used as scarves; others were gathered elegantly at the waist and had functional pockets.
The industrial references he mentioned came through in PVC coated wool that shone like an oil slick in black and crimson on thick A-line skirts and coats, and on a pair of muddy-colored cargo pants. Wide-legged and tailored to perfection so that they crumpled ever-so, they hit that elusive ‘casual elegance’ sweet spot beautifully. “It was my first time doing cargo pants, and they actually ended up being my favorite piece from the collection,” he said. Levitt herself would have worn them with verve.
