Retinol Without the Side Effects? Why Bakuchiol Is Skin Care’s Promising New Ingredient

Dermatologists have come to a consensus on at least one viable solution for delaying the aging process: “Retinol is the holy grail,” Mona Gohara, M.D., an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University, says of the vitamin A derivative known for increasing collagen production and reducing collagen breakdown.

But its less desirable outcomes—peeling, dryness, redness, and the fact that it’s classified by the FDA as a category C drug, which carries potential risks for expectant mothers—can often outweigh its benefits. Enter bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative gaining traction in skin-care circles. “It has vitamin A’s benefits without the side effects,” says Gohara of the botanical distilled from the seeds and leaves of the Indian babchi plant, which has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine to treat skin conditions.

Clinically comparable to retinol but with none of the irritation, bakuchiol is safe for most skin types. And unlike retinol, which breaks down in the sun, it can be worn during the day—a boon to new products from brands such as Herbivore Botanicals and Beautycounter. While the early research is promising, Miami-based dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., isn’t ready to abandon retinoids, which have been “proven in dozens of studies towork.” But “women want choices, and now they have them,” notes Gohara—especially women with sensitive skin and those who are expecting. One of bakuchiol’s added perks: It’s safe to use while pregnant and nursing.