If you weren’t born with them naturally, you would have to turn to filler to get the juicy, plump lips of your dreams. But if someone (or an algorithm) told you that a serum could get you the same results sans a needle and for a fraction of the price of an injectable, would you use it?
If so, you’re not alone. Volufiline is the buzzy ingredient—with over-the-top, practically unbelivable plumping effects. Content creator and skin influencer Amy Mataczynski first came across the ingredient on TikTok a few years ago, and after consistent use for a few weeks, she says she was already noticing results. “The idea of a plant-based ingredient that could make your skin look fuller without injections sounded too good to pass up,” Matacynski tells Vogue. “I ended up grabbing a K-beauty serum, and the rest is a juicy history.”
But how much does this miracle ingredient actually live up to its hype?
What is volufiline?
Volufiline is a patented cosmetic ingredient that was first developed by then French company Sederma (it was acquired by the cosmetic company Croda a few decades ago and now no longer exists). According to Natacha Bonjout, French pharmacist and founder of Bonjout Beauty, the ingredient is based on plant extract Anemarrhena asphodeloides root, which is rich in sarsasapogenin to stimulate fat cells. “It is positioned in cosmetics as an agent that enhances skin volume and contour by affecting lipid metabolism in subcutaneous fat cells,” Bonjout says.
“[It] is basically a plumping ingredient,” adds cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs Krupa Koestline. “You’ll mostly see it marketed for ‘volume’ and ‘fullness’ in skin.” Krupa goes on to say that you’ll usually find it in targeted products such as lip treatments, eye products, or face serums. As it is oil-soluble, she says that it does best when in oil-based serums or well-designed creams.
How does vollufine work?
Hadley Kina g, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist, says that volufiline works by stimulating fat cells to store lipids in hypodermis, a.k.a. the deepest layer of your skin. Dr. King goes on to explain that it is supposed to activate the receptors involved in regulating fat cell maturation and encourage the skin to store fat lipids within existing fat cells. “This leads to increased volume beneath the skin, creating a plumper, fuller appearance,” she says.
The Benefits
The biggest benefit is its supposed its plumping effect, but Bonjout says that products with volufiline claim to do other things, such as possibly contouring the cheeks, lips, under eye area, décolleté, or even body areas like the breasts or butt; smooth uneven texture; and improve elasticity. Dr. King says that to old clinical data from Sederma that suggest an 8 to 10% increase in volume when used consistently.
The Downsides
Though many stand by their first-hand experiences with the ingredient, experts say that research is still limited. That means that expectations around volufiline—especially when it comes to long-term effects—should be tempered. Bonjout points out a small study done by Sederma that showed a 2.2% increase in breast volume after 56 days of applying volufiline topically. Besides that (and the many testimonials on social), there are no other definitive studies on efficacy. “There is no strong peer-reviewed literature demonstrating meaningful facial volume increase from topical application,” Bonjout says.
Akis Ntonos, DNP, board-certified doctor of nursing and founder of the Manhattan Aion Aesthetics, adds that volufiline should not be seen as a dermal filler or professional treatment replacement. If any effects do occur, Dr. Ntonos says they are usually going to be mild and can vary from person to person. “It won’t rebuild lost facial fat, lift tissue, or add structural volume. At most, it can be a helpful addition to your skincare routine, but it shouldn’t be seen as a transformative product,” he says.
But other than not meeting those grand expectations of major volume (“[Volufiline] is subtle and short-term, not filler in a bottle,” says Koestline), downsides should be minimal. Dr. Ntonos says those who are acne-prone or have very sensitive skin should proceed with caution as you’ll find the ingredient in oil-based, heavy formulas that might irritate skin. Bonjout agrees and adds that those with active inflammation, dermatitis, or broken skin should avoid until skin is healed and those who are pregnant or breastfeeding should err on the side of caution and think twice about incorporating this into their routine.
Should you be using 100% pure volufiline?
If you want to test out volufiline for yourself, experts agree that no one should be using pure versions of the ingredient on their face. “Volufiline was studied at a certain concentration, and I am not sure how a consumer can ensure proper dosage and stability,” says Koestline. “I am also not sure if the product is considered safe to use at higher concentrations and if Sederma has done any tests at high levels.”
“It is not meant to be used as a 100% pure oil,” agrees Dr. King. “The raw material is designed to be used at 2 to 5% concentration.”
As for those viral 100% pure volufiline products that are on Amazon and other retailers, Koestline questions those formulations and whether they re using volufiline at all. “You don’t know if it’s the real ingredient, the right concentration, cosmetic-grade, or even stable,” she says. “Volufiline is designed to be used by formulators at very specific levels inside a tested product. Using random versions straight on skin can lead to irritation, breakouts, or just nothing happening.” Vogue reached out to skincare brand Volufiline, which sells a pure 100% form of the ingredient, for comment, but did not hear back in time for publication.
How should you use it?
Dr. King says that volufiline pairs well with peptides, ceramides, squalane, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and growth factors. So it’s best to find products that already incorporate those ingredients for easy use, and avoid pairing them with strong exfoliating acids and retinoids to avoid irritation. Bonjout points to serums such The Ordinary Volufiline 92% + Pal‑Isoleucine 1% or creams such as the RajaniMD Volufiline Cream and the d’Alba Intensive Volufiline Spray Ampoule as some examples of products that aim to temporarily plump skin.
If you want to use it in a serum or oil, Dr. Ntonos says to apply it on clean skin and follow with a moisturizer to lock it in. If you’re opting for a cream, then replace your regular moisturizer with it. Start slowly by using it once a day, he says, and then you can increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well.
Mataczynski’s favorite is The Ordinary’s Volufiline, which she says is thin, absorbs quickly, and not sticky. Paired with a pure hyaluronic acid serum (her’s is from Japan) and a thick balm to lock everything in, she now regularly uses it on both her lips and under eyes. “It makes my lips feel super plump and hydrated,” she says. “For my under-eyes, I just use the volufiline and then go through my usual skincare routine. Honestly, it’s such an easy, feel-good step, and the results are totally worth it if you’re patient.”
“I suggest looking at the quality of the formula, how it works with your skin, and keeping your expectations realistic,” says Dr. Ntonos if you’re really serious about using it. “I see volufiline as an optional cosmetic boost, not something essential for skin health or managing aging. People get the best results when they know what it can and can t do.”
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