Mid-Century Glam, a Leather Room, and Ciara! Inside Roger Vivier’s Paris Presentation

Ciara

Roger Vivier perfectly set the scene for its fall 2023 presentation with an acapella choir and live string orchestra with tunes from Game of Thrones, Beetlejuice, and Edward Scissorhands as Gwendoline Christie, Ciara, and Carla Bruni browsed the new collection over drinks and snacks. And in case you were wondering if the Game of Thrones serenade was intentional; it was, and it fit in perfectly with creative director Gherardo Felloni’s cheeky history of matching his event’s music to the VIPS.

On the first floor, the lively space offered up saccharine leopard print heels, stilettos blooming with big bows and crystal-covered vests—Felloni’s first, small dabbling into ready-to-wear. Models with late 1950s beehives posed as they did in the mid-century couture shows as onlookers took all the photos they could get. Felloni’s immersive experiences have become a highlight of Paris Fashion Week for their mix of wit and homage to history, but this edition felt slightly more refined and thematic. Felloni was specifically looking to Roger Vivier’s Choc heel for inspiration for the entire event. Designed by Vivier in 1959, the Choc heel arched inwards to create a softer, more organic shape and stiletto that pushed all the boundaries of footwear at the time. Another inspiration: the early days of couture shows, in which models walked a little slower, interacting with the audience and, of course, holding the infamous numbered signs.

“In the history of fashion, Vivier was not just the shoemaker,” Felloni said over small bites. “With the Choc heel, it completely changed the silhouette of women. Everything comes from that. I also tried to build a silhouette with accessories. There are gloves, hat, belt, shoes, boots…But the really different thing is that the silhouette that you see all around the rooms are all made with the same Choc heel and the Choc bag shape.”

Other guests, including Nicole Ari Parker, Halston Sage, India Amarteifio, Emilia Jones, and Camille Razat wandered in and out of the thematic rooms filled to the brim with mood boards from Felloni’s studio. In one corner, an artisan sat working on the signature crystal buckles–in another, a seamstress pinned a fuschia sash while someone else painted buckles. Models posed dramatically on stairs. There was a leather room, and a burgundy room too. “It s all about color,” Felloni said with a laugh. The brand’s two newest styles–both of which took influence from couture techniques–were marveled over: The Viv’ Choc Me bag with its puffy silhouette and the Viv Choc Couture Cuissardes with their draped leather ruffles. As the live Tim Burton-inspired soundtrack rang out, and guests headed to the outdoor garden to hang out, some were already starting the conversation about what bag they wanted next.