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Once a symbol of beauty rebellion, kaleidoscopic hair color has become a more universal signifier of head-turning style, as pale pastel and electric-hued lengths continue to serve as the ultimate street style bait. Kirsten Stuke is the New York City colorist responsible for oh-so many of fashion’s most brilliant manes, thanks to her uncanny sense for unconventional color and unparalleled skill with the painting brush.
Stuke fell in love with the craft at age 23 and moved to the city six years ago to apprentice for Aura Friedman, a master of the double-process from whom she learned the arduous techniques required to bleach and gloss well. Recently, Stuke branched out on her own at Sally Hershberger Salon, taking those lessons and folding them into the singular frame of reference that applies to her personal style. “Hair is your best accessory—it really helps you express yourself without even ever having to talk to anyone,” she says. “In a way I think of hair, much as style in general, as an extension of our personalities.”
To wit, she has worked with iconoclasts like Frank Ocean, Zoë Kravitz, and Lourdes Leon, each of whom possess a rare chameleonic quality. “My favorite part about coloring hair is being able to make someone’s vision a reality,” she says. As for Stuke’s vision, it encompasses an eclectic range of cultural points. Think: Hellsing and other iconic anime series, healing quartz crystal caves, Renaissance portraiture, and the lush garden she cultivates on her South Williamsburg terrace. “I’ve been obsessing over earth tones: muted yellows and corals and slate greens and tans,” she adds. “The desert. That sort of lo-fi color of movies from the ’70s and the ’90s.”
A cursory glance through her wardrobe reveals that Stuke knows how to dress up a high-impact hair color, as seen in the images below. “I’m obsessed with color theory and complementary colors,” she says. “I wear lots and lots of green because it contrasts so well with my pink hair, and I mix in blacks and neutrals to try and contrast the vividness of the clothes to that of my hair.” The gist: “Master Roshi meets Buffy the Vampire Slayer.” It doesn’t get cooler than that.
“I’ve had basically every color, mostly out of boredom and curiosity. Especially when I was just starting to do color I would experiment on myself with placement and colors—for science. The pink has always been my favorite, it complements my skin and green eyes.”
“I got my first job at a salon out of necessity but quickly figured out that it filled a creative void for me. I have this favorite pair of work pants from Peels, they are painter pants. I love them because of how utilitarian they look and how comfy they are. I also wear a lot of flannels or oversize button-downs that second as a smock to keep the bleach at bay; this 3-D tiger shirt is from Oteo in Harajuku, Tokyo. I really embrace the house painter aesthetic at times.”
“I wear the masks because I’m around chemicals so much and the bleach fumes are not cute. I love what I do and hope to do it for a long time so you have to stay healthy. I also love the sort of Meiji shrine, temple punk vibe of masks, and my friends buy me all different kinds when they go to Asia cause they know I’m a mask fetishist. The dress is vintage from Dana Foley NYC.”
“I’ve definitely seen clients come out of their shells and evolve so much all because they love their hair color. I feel more confident when my hair is all pink. I feel more fully myself.”
“The secret to maintaining your color is never washing your hair, instead using a dry shampoo. Bumble and Bumble Prêt-à-Powder is my favorite. Always using a good oil in your ends everyday and generally just being lazy. Being okay with a vibrant color is always good too, because it will always fade.”
Kirsten Stuke is available for hair color appointments at Sally Hershberger Salon in NYC; for information: kirstenstuke.com