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My sister often sends me a photo of a bag or dress that’s caught her eye and asks, “Why do I like this?” It’s not a philosophical question, per se; rather, she’s curious why an item that has never appealed to her—like a wedge heel or a baguette bag—suddenly looks so good. It’s her version of the question editors often get from friends outside the industry: “Where do trends come from?” Usually, the answer is the same: They start on the runway, trickle down to contemporary brands and fast-fashion chains, and ultimately land on the street.
Lately, though, there’s been a lot to say about trickle-up fashion. It’s the reverse idea, where “real-life” style influences what we see on the runway. Nicolas Ghesquière wanted his Louis Vuitton collection to evoke the bold, confident women he imagined sitting outside Beaubourg, for instance. Demna Gvasalia said the guys and girls he sees when he visits Paris inspired his new Balenciaga collection; you might recall that in seasons past, his chunky sneakers and cargo pants were a riff on the clothes he saw dads wearing in the park with their kids. Flipping through more of the Fall 2019 collections—and the street style happening outside—we noticed another, perhaps broader, example of a from-the-street trend: eccentric layering of all kinds.
Instead of “just” wearing a dress, dozens of women layered a turtleneck underneath, a styling trick spotted at Dior and Paco Rabanne, too. At Loewe and Jil Sander, dresses over pants became the season’s most directional silhouette, and Jennifer Connelly gave it a test-drive at Louis Vuitton. Elsewhere, the knits-on-knits-on-knits at Lemaire and Chloé were preceded by girls (and guys) bundling up on the streets of New York and London, while Versace’s everything-but-the-kitchen-sink outfits—Donatella’s ode to “imperfection”—reflected the eclectic, mismatched way plenty of women already dress. Below, we’re distilling the season’s best layering formulas on and off the runway, plus the pieces you need to try the look yourself. Don’t let the sunshine fool you: Summer is still 82 days away.
Doubled-Up Knits
Here’s how we’re staying warm during these last few gray weeks: by layering turtlenecks under cardigans à la Lemaire or color-blocking our sweaters for a much-needed boost, like this woman we saw on the streets of London.
The More Layers, the Merrier
Liu Wen’s look at Versace involved a turtleneck, an unbuttoned shirtdress, a slip skirt, and a camisole. Of course, that kind of piled-on clash is nothing new to fashion’s most experimental dressers. Try it out with a silk dress and low boots you can wear into the next season.
Winterize Your Summer Wardrobe
If you’re counting down the days until you can rip the tags off your new summer dress or blouse, take a tip from Gaia Repossi and Constance Jablonski: Just wear it now! Then ground the look with dark base layers, like a second-skin turtleneck and black tights, for a touch of warmth without bulk.
After-Dark Layering
Idiosyncratic layers made the leap to eveningwear, too, most memorably at Paco Rabanne, where a zebra-striped sequin dress was styled with a Lurex knit. Similarly, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s balletic tulle dresses came with checkered turtlenecks underneath, mirroring the way many women mix their barely there dresses with bodysuits and knits. The mash-up is more interesting, sure, but also subtly subversive; it’s sexy, yet totally covered up.
Will You Dare to Wear a Dress Over Pants?
The dress-over-pants trend is one you’ll either love, hate, or love to hate. At Jil Sander and Loewe, the look had a covered-up, monastic air to it, but the street style takes were a bit more eccentric. Consider Jennifer Connelly’s outfit at Louis Vuitton, which combined a checkered knit, a pleated skirt, and a belt bag over flared leather pants.
