Introducing Addressed, a weekly column where we’ll, ahem, address the joys (and tribulations!) of getting dressed. We’ll look at runway and real-life trends, talk to people whose style we love, and, most importantly, answer your fashion queries. Download the Vogue app and find our Style Chat section to submit your question.
Every week we get a list of things people are searching for online. Sometimes it can help fine-tune an idea or an approach to a story. Last week a lot of people were thinking about how to style cargo pants, and, as it turns out, I am in the midst of a cargo-pants love affair of my own. How serendipitous!
If you’re a fashion fan, then perhaps the mere mention of cargo pants conjures images of Nicolas Ghesquière’s actually iconic spring 2002 Balenciaga collection. The lineup consisted of color-blocked cargo trousers worn extra baggy but cropped at the ankle, paired with sequined or patchwork boho tops that seemed like they had come out of someone’s fabulous trunk of vintage costumes. The Balenciaga look exemplifies two crucial things: first, the fit of the pants. I am of the mind that cargo pants should be slightly slouchy, so the best place to purchase a standard green pair is from the menswear department of, say, Gap or J.Crew; size up one or two sizes depending on how low you feel your low rise can go. I am of the mind that these sort of all-American classic items must be purchased from the all-American classic store instead of the high-fashion label that just takes it on for a season. (1) Because it’s cheaper. (2) Because it’s genuine. Keep in mind I’ve said the word standard, and so that means the pants must not have a skinny or narrow leg. (A horseshoe shape is probably okay because it’s big). If the silhouette is exaggerated enough, it will make every part of your look seem more special—even if it’s just a white button-down shirt.
The second crucial fact to be gleaned from this 23-year-old collection is the way the look was built from two items that stood at opposite ends of the aesthetic spectrum: one sturdy and utilitarian, the other romantic and impractical. (There was a feeling that the sequined tops were so old as to be disintegrating.) And so sheer gauzy blouses, shiny Lurex tops, or even your favorite barely-there going-out top from the aughts will always feel grounded by cargo pants.
Cargo pants had a bit of a moment on the spring 2024 runways, but the truth is that they’re as timeless as a good pair of jeans, and that’s why some designers keep coming back to them over and over again regardless of the trend cycle. If the idea of wearing the basic green cargos gives you the ick, then there are as many fashion versions as you can dream of. Go for a bright color from Christopher John Rogers, who loves a great wide cargo pant, and pair it with something equally bold. Or go for texture, like the terrific pair covered in oversized paillettes shown on the Sacai runway this season. It’s so glamorous that all you need is a black T-shirt to head out the door. The fashion cargo—in sequins or beautiful floral velvet or corduroy like at Collina Strada—is also a way to ease into the style. Either you keep it very minimal at the top, or you double down on the maximalism, like Hillary Taymour does on her runway. “I love wearing cargo pants because they’re as easy to wear as sweatpants, but they’re polished enough to wear to more formal events,” she explains via email from Paris. She often layers them underneath ruffled dresses and skirts or her signature skirt belts; the contrast between soft and utilitarian makes for something more effortless.
As for shoes, well, this is where your personality really shines through. (As I write this, I’ve realized that’s actually the basis of my shoe manifesto.) There is something very Carrie Bradshaw about a slouchy cargo pant, a dainty blouse, and an equally dainty pair of gold strappy sandals, but they’d likely look just as cool with a pair of flat sneakers like Keds or Converse that play off the aforementioned American-sportswear angle. I’ll add that, in general, I favor a pointy, almond, or even a square toe with a wide leg because I feel the round toe abruptly ends the silhouette—though, of course, that’s exactly why someone else may love it!
