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Within minutes of uploading my first Instagram story from my stay at São Lourenço do Barrocal, the messages began pouring in: “My favorite place.” “Favorite hotel in the world.” “The best memories here.” It was a curious response. After all, the hotel isn’t located in one of Portugal’s most popular tourist hotspots—it’s not in the beloved cities of Lisbon or Porto, nor in the internationally renowned wine region of the Douro Valley, nor in the Algarve, famous for its stunning coastline and abundance of luxury resorts.
Tucked deep in the rural heart of Alentejo, just two hours south of Lisbon, the 40-key farmhouse hotel São Lourenço do Barrocal offers a quiet contrast to Portugal’s more bustling destinations. Alentejo is the country’s largest region by land area, yet one of its least populated, making it a hidden gem often overlooked by travelers. But São Lourenço do Barrocal is changing that narrative, emerging as a destination in its own right. The estate captures the spirit of Alentejo—its slow pace, natural beauty, and rich traditions—while offering guests a gateway to explore the region through immersive on-site experiences and easy access to local attractions.
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As you drive south from Lisbon Airport, the landscape of Alentejo gradually unfolds—vast golden plains stretch to the horizon, dotted with gentle hills, olive groves, and cork oak trees. This vast, open region of southern Portugal is characterized by its raw, unhurried beauty—inland, the scenery transitions into sprawling pine forests and ancient cork oak woodlands, while salt fields near the coastline glisten under the sun and the scent of the sea lingers in the breeze. Scattered throughout the region, whitewashed villages and fortified hilltop towns like Évora and Monsaraz emerge from the landscape, their cobbled streets and crumbling stone walls bearing centuries of history.
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As an expansive, 2,000-acre estate that’s been passed down through the same family for generations, São Lourenço do Barrocal offers perhaps the most authentic introduction to the region. “Indulging in Alentejo’s great food and wine is one of the best ways to understand the Alentejo. Its slow-cooked stews, sausages, and wines are a true reflection of our identity,” says José António Uva, the estate’s owner. “In Alentejo, there’s an immense respect for terroir and craft, from traditional ‘talha’ wines, still made the ancient Roman way… Visiting a winery, for example, is not just about tasting, but understanding the process, meeting the people behind the wines, their vision, and ideas.” On the property, guests can experience this firsthand at the estate’s thriving winery, which spans 37 acres of vineyards. They’re invited to tour the winery, explore its oak barrel room, and delve into the winemaking process before enjoying a tasting beneath the estate’s holm oak trees, fully immersing themselves in the region’s terroir.
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“And then there is the food,” Uva adds. “It’s simple, generous, and a reflection of the Alentejo s agricultural heritage, passed down through generations, from rich, garlicky ‘açorda’ to hearty, slow-cooked stews of lamb, pork, or game with local herbs and olive oil. Cured meats and cheeses are also a staple, of course.” In Alentejo, food is meant to be shared, and time at the table is never hurried, and this is a central element of the experience at São Lourenço do Barrocal. The farm-to-table restaurant offers a warm and authentic setting that celebrates the estate’s seasonal bounty, sourcing organic ingredients such as acorn-fed black pig, artisanal goat’s cheese, and traditional Alentejo breads. Chef Duarte Lourenço honors the region’s culinary legacy with dishes like slow-roasted veal cheeks and acorn-fed pig served with migas.
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In addition to its food and wine offerings, the estate is surrounded by olive groves and a large organic garden, offering a variety of activities for guests. These include horseback riding through the grounds or into the villages, cycling along scenic trails, birdwatching to observe local wildlife, and even beekeeping for those with an interest in sustainable practices.
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As for why the region has remained relatively under-the-radar until now? “Alentejo’s history and geography have certainly helped to prevent it from developing as rapidly as other parts of Portugal,” explains Uva. “With vast agricultural areas and estates scattered across the landscape, combined with a dispersed population, it has retained much of its beauty and timeless appeal. It’s a vast and varied region. I’d say that if you really want to understand what this beautiful land has to offer, you need to experience this range of environments and their own characteristics.” Today, as new hotels are beginning to open here—particularly along the coast—travelers of all kinds are discovering Alentejo’s many pleasures, from its rich history and unspoiled nature to its celebrated food and wine.
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São Lourenço do Barrocal is also located just ten minutes from Alentejo’s ceramics capital, São Pedro do Corval. Here, you’ll find family-run workshops and studios where artisans still shape and paint everything by hand using traditional red clay pottery, like Egidio Santos, the only master potter left in the village who still does the entire process by hand using local clay. Just a few minutes down the road, you’ll find the beautiful preserved medieval village of Monsaraz, perched high on a hilltop, offering sweeping views over the vast plains and the Alqueva Lake below. Encircled by ancient stone walls, the village feels suspended in time, with narrow cobbled streets, where artisans’ shops, small galleries, and charming cafés are tucked into old white houses outlined in blue, blending seamlessly with the historic character. At its heart stands the Monsaraz Castle, once a strategic fortress, now a stunning lookout point. Uva also suggests visiting the town of Estremoz, famous for its Saturday market. “The market is a treasure trove of fresh produce, cheeses, cured meats, grains, and various antiques and collectibles, from furniture and ceramics to copperware, books, postcards, and even farming tools,” he says.
If you’re looking to explore Alentejo more fully, you can also make a stop in the region’s cultural heart, Évora: a city steeped in history and charm, where layers of Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese heritage blend seamlessly within its ancient walls. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Évora is home to striking landmarks like the Roman Temple of Diana, the hauntingly beautiful Chapel of Bones, and a grand medieval cathedral that watches over the city from its hilltop perch. Its narrow, winding streets are lined with whitewashed houses, sun-drenched squares, and lively cafés that spill out under orange trees. Despite its historical significance, Évora has a youthful energy—partly thanks to its university, one of the oldest in Portugal, and the creative community that has been growing here over the past few years, as young people move to the city seeking a slower pace of life, affordable living, and inspiration from its rich cultural heritage.
While mass tourism has increasingly found its way to the Algarve’s sheltered coves in the south, the Alentejo coastline, which forms the region’s western edge, remains a favored coastal escape among locals—particularly in villages like Comporta. Just one hour’s drive from Lisbon, Comporta offers a peaceful retreat with its pristine beaches and a laid-back atmosphere. The landscapes here are the thing: from the green and gold rice fields, to the sand dunes that descend into coastal lagoons to create a rich ecosystem for birds and wildlife. Driving through the area, pine and cork forests add to the region’s natural beauty while providing shade and biodiversity.
For those seeking to immerse themselves in the beauty of Comporta’s nature reserve, Quinta da Comporta is the perfect place to stay. This eco-friendly retreat offers thoughtfully designed accommodations that harmonize with the surrounding landscape. Guests can enjoy peaceful walks through pine forests, bike rides along scenic trails, indulge in treatments at the spa, or simply relax by the pool. With a strong emphasis on sustainability and local craftsmanship, it’s the ideal sanctuary for those looking to unwind in a stylish yet nature-inspired setting, all just a short drive from the charming village of Comporta.
While Quinta da Comporta offers a serene and nature-centric retreat, Sublime Comporta brings a more upscale, contemporary experience to the region. Set amid pine forests, the property combines modern luxury with a design-focused approach, featuring sleek, minimalist architecture and villas that blend harmoniously with the natural surroundings—even the gym, which features pilates reformers and a boxing ring, is partially outdoors. Sublime Comporta features three restaurants on property, along with a beachside restaurant, accessible via shuttle service. The property is also expanding with 43 new villas on a 126-acre estate just across the road, set to be completed by 2026.
And Sublime isn’t the only evidence of Comporta’s development over the years. Portugal’s most stylish hospitality group, JNcQUOI, has played a leading role in the area’s upscale transformation—beginning with the launch of its high-end boutique Fashion Clinic in 2023. That was soon followed by JNcQUOI Deli Comporta, designed by JPMayer, and JNcQUOI Beach Club, a collaboration with renowned Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen. Their partnership continues with the highly anticipated JNcQUOI Club Comporta resort, set to open in 2028—the same year Six Senses is slated to debut its own Comporta property.
For a more tranquil coastal retreat, Mélides offers a quieter escape with wilder, more secluded beaches—perhaps what first drew Christian Louboutin and Vincent Van Duysen, both of whom have homes in the area. But with the recent opening of Louboutin’s buzzy boutique hotel, Vermelho Melides, the crowds may not be far behind.
