High on Mackinac Island’s western bluff, The Inn at Stonecliffe overlooks the Straits with a kind of effortless grace. Evening light spills across the pollinator gardens—alive with bees, hummingbirds, and the occasional wandering chicken—before dissolving into the shimmer of the Mackinac Bridge. What you notice most is the quiet: waves brushing the shore, the clip-clop of horses in the distance. Just as striking is what you don’t hear: no roar of traffic. Built in 1904 as the private estate of cattle baron Michael Cudahy, the Tudor Revival mansion has been reimagined for a new era following an extensive restoration. It is the perfect perch to watch the island slip into fall, as crimson and gold leaves blaze along the cliffs above the lake.
Tucked away from the bustle of downtown, the inn embodies what I love most about Mackinac Island: the sense of stepping back in time. I’ve been visiting since childhood, and now, returning with my own kids, I’m struck by how little has changed, yet subtle new comforts hint at a refreshed era.
Where Past and Present Meet
At just under four square miles, Mackinac Island sits at the confluence of Lakes Huron and Lake Michigan. Its history runs deep: long before European ships arrived, it was sacred to the Anishinaabe people—particularly the Odawa, Ojibwa, and Potawatomi tribes—who called it “Michilimackinac,” or “The Great Turtle,” for its shape and its mythical role as the dwelling place of Gitche Manitou, the Great Spirit. Later, Mackinac became a fur trading post for the French, a strategic military outpost during the Revolutionary and 1812 wars, and eventually a summer retreat for wealthy families from Chicago and Detroit. Hollywood even left its mark when The Grand Hotel, a National Historic Landmark, provided the backdrop for the 1980 romantic classic Somewhere in Time.
A defining moment came in 1898, when the island banned automobiles after the first “horseless carriage” spooked a team of horses. More than a century later, the ban still holds, making Mackinac one of the few places in America where transportation is by foot, bicycle, or horse-drawn carriage. With about 400 year-round residents and summer crowds that swell into the tens of thousands, the island remains remarkably well-preserved—over 80 percent of it is state parkland. Strolling downtown past Victorian houses and fudge shops, you can’t help but feel you’ve stepped into another era.
While summer draws the biggest crowds, locals will tell you autumn is the island’s finest season—when the air is crisp, the forests are ablaze with color, and the pace slows enough to savor it all. Gardens brim with fall florals, landscapers here seem to outdo themselves, decking porches and pathways with mums, pumpkins, and late blooms that rival summer’s splendor. Hotel rooms are easier on the wallet this time of year, and with fewer visitors, the island feels more relaxed. For locals, Halloween is the true last hurrah before nearly shuttering for winter: a festive night of decorations, costumes, and community spirit that marks the close of another season.
Where to Stay
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For a secluded retreat that feels both historic and freshly relevant, The Inn at Stonecliffe is Mackinac’s finest choice. Following its $40 million renovation and reopening in 2024, the inn balances Edwardian charm with modern luxury. Interiors are light-filled and fresh, with four private cottages, a family-friendly pool alongside an adults-only pool, and spa services. Food is a highlight here: The Straits Restaurant serves farm-to-table cuisine and seasonal dishes like garden-fresh salads, house-made pastas, and locally caught fish, while for a more casual option, The Backyard serves an excellent wood-fired pizza. The grounds are especially magical in fall—gardens alive with late-season blooms, hammocks beneath golden canopies, sweeping views of both Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. The expansive lawn is dotted with games—cornhole, soccer, and ladder toss for the kids—and solo fire pits where families gather under starry skies to toast s’mores or enjoy a steaming mug of hot cider.
The Grand Hotel remains Mackinac Island’s most iconic landmark, a sprawling Victorian masterpiece crowned by the world’s longest porch—where rocking chairs invite you to linger over cocktails as the sun dips into the Straits. Inside, its glamorous, deeply nostalgic interiors reflect the bold vision of Carleton Varney, protégé of Dorothy Draper: a maximalist symphony of bright florals and vivid stripes in sunny yellows, emerald greens, and hot pinks. With endless dining options—whether it’s a decadent “hummer” milkshake at the Cupola Bar or tender wagyu beef skewers and oysters Rockefeller grilled in the Jockey Club’s wood-fired oven—the hotel is very much a destination unto itself. For families, the massive pool, complete with twisting water slides and splash pads, is a major draw.
Hotel Iroquois, perched at the edge of town, pairs a lakeside setting with immaculate gardens and unforgettable sunsets. Its Carriage House restaurant ranks among the most scenic waterside dining spots in Northern Michigan, with chef Greg Murphy showcasing smoked whitefish cakes, lamb lollipops with curry hummus, seafood pasta, filet mignon with foraged morels, and other locally sourced standouts.
Where to Eat
While much of Mackinac Island’s dining skews toward pub fare—indeed, The Mustang Lounge proudly claims the title of “Michigan’s most historical tavern”—there are plenty of ways to sidestep bar food in favor of more dynamic options.
Start your morning with a pour-over or specialty latte at Lucky Bean Coffee House, a cozy spot just off Main Street that serves what is easily the best coffee on the island. For something a bit more whimsical, Watercolor Café pairs light breakfast and lunch fare—try the breakfast burrito, peanut butter deluxe toast, green dream smoothie, or housemade pop tart—with painting classes and creative workshops.
Many of the island’s finest dining experiences can be found within its historic hotels: The Inn at Stonecliffe, The Grand Hotel, and Hotel Iroquois, as well as the elegant 1852 Grill Room at the Island House Hotel, where white-tablecloth service contrasts nicely with its hidden-gem sibling, the casual Ice House BBQ tucked into the garden out back.
For a taste of the Caribbean, head to Kingston Kitchen at the Village Inn, where chef Shawn Fearon serves the flavors of his native Jamaica—oxtail, jerk chicken, ackee and saltfish, curried goat, and the best whitefish sandwich on the island. Fearon first came to Mackinac more than two decades ago on a summer work visa and now runs one of only two restaurants open year-round. His story reflects the long-standing ties between Jamaican workers and Mackinac: through the H-2B visa program, they’ve filled essential roles in hospitality and other seasonal industries for decades.
Finally, for a quintessential Mackinac moment, grab a seat on the harbor-facing patio at The Pink Pony. Yes, it leans touristy, but with a pink-hued cocktail in hand and a bowl of whitefish dip in front of you as the ferries glide in and out, you’ll quickly understand why this lively spot has been beloved for generations.
As a Michigander with a sweet tooth, I never miss the chance to stop at Kilwins for a scoop of their rich, decadent ice cream. And of course, no trip is complete without fudge. The sugary aroma wafts down Main Street, where artisans continue the century-old tradition of pouring, paddling, and slicing molten fudge into glossy, irresistible bricks. There are plenty of fudge shops to choose from, but you can’t go wrong with the Original Murdick’s Fudge.
Where to Play
With 80% of the island preserved as state parkland, Mackinac is best explored outside. Rent a bike and pedal the picturesque eight-mile loop that hugs the shoreline, pausing to dip your toes in the lake. As you bike, you’ll come across various points of interest along the trail, including Arch Rock, a soaring limestone arch, and Sugar Loaf, a massive limestone outcrop rising unexpectedly from a clearing. Climb the 207 steps from Lakeshore Drive all the way up to Arch Rock, and stop in the new Milliken Nature Center to learn more about the island’s fascinating geological wonders and its very formation.
For a gentler pace, take a horse-drawn carriage tour and listen to the rhythmic clip of hooves as you roll past historic cemeteries, wildflower meadows, and bluffs overlooking the straits. Or hike the more than 70 miles of trails running through the state park. If you enjoy gawking at beautiful homes, a favorite walk winds behind the Grand Hotel along West Bluff Road, past Victorian “cottages” and into Hubbard’s Annex, one of Michigan’s first planned summer communities.
Downtown, skip the souvenir shops and duck into Poppins, a curated paper and home store, or Little Luxuries for locally made goods. Families shouldn’t miss the island’s two butterfly conservatories, Wings of Mackinac and The Original Butterfly House.
Everywhere you turn, history hums beneath the surface. The Biddle House, home to the Mackinac Island Native American Museum, honors the island’s Indigenous heritage, while Fort Mackinac still echoes with cannon fire as it did two centuries ago. Pro tip: after the steep climb to the fort, reward yourself with a milkshake at the Fort Mackinac Tea Room, where the sweeping views rival the indulgence of shakes made with Guernsey Farms ice cream. Across the island, history is preserved in original 18th- and 19th-century buildings—among them the Benjamin Blacksmith Shop and Mill Creek—each offering a glimpse into Mackinac’s layered past.
