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Azelaic acid is the unsung hero of exfoliants. While retinoids and chemical exfoliators like alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids get plenty of well-deserved hype for their ability to renew skin, they’re just not for everyone. If you’ve tried these ingredients and they weren’t right for you, azelaic-acid products should be on your radar. “Despite having the word acid in its name, azelaic acid is well tolerated,” says board-certified dermatologist Evan Rieder.
Vogue’s Favorite Azelaic-Acid Products
- Best Overall: Paula s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, $40
- Best for Oily Skin: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, $12
- Best Moisturizer: SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment Daily Corrective Moisturizer, $110
- Best for Dark Spots: Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum, $99
- Best Sunscreen: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Clear Daily Invisible Sunscreen SPF 50, $40
- Best for Sensitive Skin: Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum, $79
- Best Budget: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% With Niacinamide Vitamin C, $20
- Best for Uneven Texture and Tone: Shani Darden Rescue Serum with 10% Azelaic Complex, $68
Azelaic acid is not an AHA or BHA but a dicarboxylic acid and naturally occurs in grains. Yes, it gently resurfaces skin—which inherently helps smooth out uneven texture, fade dark spots, and unclog pores—but azelaic acid has other properties that enhance these benefits. The ingredient is an antioxidant and has potent anti-inflammatory effects, which is why it’s long been used by dermatologists to treat redness (including the flushing associated with rosacea). It has antibacterial properties, too, and kills Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria implicated in acne, says board-certified dermatologist Morayo Adisa. “It also brightens skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, making it ideal for post-acne marks and melasma with a low risk of irritation,” adds board-certified dermatologist Anetta Reszko.
In This Article:
Rosacea, acne, and melasma are some of the most challenging skin conditions to treat, but azelaic acid can address all of them, even if your skin is sensitive or melanin rich. While some hyperpigmentation-fighting ingredients can be too harsh on skin of color, azelaic acid isn’t one of them. “It is gentle, and with repeated use, it can help to gradually even tone,” says Dr. Rieder. Last but not least, it’s also safe to use while pregnant and breastfeeding, making it a blessing for new moms and moms-to-be dealing with so-called pregnancy-mask discoloration and acne flare-ups.
Ahead, our favorite azelaic-acid products for all skin types and concerns, plus expert tips on how to incorporate them into your routine.
Best Overall: Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
- Why We Love It: This clever gel-cream booster can be mixed into any of your favorite moisturizers or serums to give them an instant complexion-clarifying, skin-soothing upgrade. A blend of 10% azelaic and 0.5% salicylic acids helps gently exfoliate to combat blemishes, while a host of calming ingredients (including licorice-root extract, bisabolol, allantoin, and adenosine) work to quell redness, leaving the skin looking clearer, smoother, and glowier.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, salicylic acid, licorice-root extract
- Size: 1 oz.
Best for Oily Skin: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
- Why We Love It: If you’re looking for a no-frills azelaic-acid treatment that’ll help clarify oily, acne-prone skin, add this product from The Ordinary to your cart. The cream contains 10% azelaic acid to control breakouts and redness, as well as dimethicone, a noncomedogenic ingredient frequently found in primers. Not only does it lock in moisture, but it also mattifies the skin, preventing oil slicks and makeup meltdowns.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, dimethicone
- Size: 1 oz.
Best Moisturizer: SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment Daily Corrective Moisturizer
- Why We Love It: It’s not just the soft green hue of this oil-free moisturizer that neutralizes redness; it’s the cocktail of soothing botanicals (including cucumber and thyme), azelaic acid, and niacinamide. The noncomedogenic gel cream also contains alpha arbutin, which works in tandem with azelaic acid and niacinamide to fade dark spots, promoting brighter, even skin with every application. “It’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin,” adds Dr. Reszko.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, niacinamide, alpha arbutin
- Size: 1 oz.
Best for Dark Spots: Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
- Why We Love It: Designed to halt breakouts and clear up the dark spots they leave behind, this serum evens out skin with an impressive list of potent yet gentle ingredients. In addition to exfoliating and decongesting skin with azelaic acid, it helps fade discoloration, redness, and fine lines with kojic acid, bakuchiol, and more antioxidants. It absorbs quickly without leaving any sticky residue, hydrating skin instantly and leaving it more luminous over time.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, kojic acid, licorice extract, bakuchiol
- Size: 1 oz.
Best Sunscreen: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Clear Daily Invisible Sunscreen SPF 50
- Why We Love It: This chemical sunscreen is a favorite of Dr. Adisa due to its lightweight formulation, which boasts a high sun-protection factor as well as broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection. In addition to staving off sun damage, the noncomedogenic, nongreasy fluid works to combat breakouts and redness with azelaic acid, as glycerin helps hydrate and Senna alata extract protects against free-radical damage. Bonus: It sits beautifully under makeup, with zero pilling.
- Key Ingredients: Chemical sunscreen filters, azelaic acid, glycerin, Senna alata extract
- Size: 1.7 oz.
Best for Sensitive Skin: Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum
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- Why We Love It: Though it features a 15% blend of four different acids, those with sensitive skin can use this cushy serum with confidence; it has been tested and approved for addressing hyperpigmentation on sensitive skin. Lactic and glycolic acids work to slough away dead cells on the skin’s surface, while azelaic and tranexamic acids inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. In just two weeks, you may begin to notice the fading of stubborn discoloration and even melasma.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, glycolic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione
- Size: 1 oz.
Best Budget: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% With Niacinamide Vitamin C
- Why We Love It: If you’re new to azelaic acid and don’t want to make a hefty investment in a serum, this from Naturium is a nice choice. The affordable formula uses a glycinated form of azelaic acid to diminish dark spots and soothe redness; Dr. Adisa notes that it is even gentler and more hydrating—ideal if you have dry or sensitive skin. It also contains vitamin C and niacinamide (which have antioxidant properties in addition to improving uneven skin tone and texture), and we like using it in the morning under our SPF for added defense against environmental damage.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, coffee-seed extract
- Size: 1 oz.
Best for Uneven Texture and Tone: Shani Darden Rescue Serum with 10% Azelaic Complex
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- Why We Love It: Discoloration, breakouts, fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars are all cleared up and smoothed out by this serum, which is loaded with hydrators like aloe vera and panthenol so your skin will never feel stripped. “Formulated with oat-kernel extract, aloe vera, licorice-root extract, and panthenol, it offers superb anti-inflammatory and calming benefits,” adds Dr. Reszko.
- Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, licorice-root extract, oat-kernel extract
- Size: 1 oz.
Everything You Need to Know
What percentage of azelaic acid is best?
According to Dr. Rieder, there’s very little data that compares different strengths of azelaic acid. “I typically recommend that people use the highest strength they can tolerate, understanding that it might take some time to build up their skin barrier’s tolerance,” he says. Most over-the-counter formulations feature a 10% concentration of azelaic acid; Dr. Rieder notes that lower percentage formulas can still be effective, especially when the active is combined with other skin-brightening ingredients. Those with more severe acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation may need a prescription-strength formula, available in concentrations from 15 to 20%.
How to use azelaic acid
Azelaic acid should be applied as the first product after cleansing once you’ve toweled off. While most people can tolerate using it in both the morning and evening, you can use it once in the A.M. if your skin is particularly sensitive. Just be sure to always finish your morning routine with facial sunscreen to prevent any further hyperpigmentation.
What products should you not pair with azelaic acid?
“It’s important to use azelaic acid properly to avoid compromising the skin barrier or increasing sensitivity,” says Dr. Reszko. Though azelaic acid is generally well tolerated even if you have sensitive skin, our experts advise against layering it with other products featuring ingredients that can irritate the skin—like retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide—especially if your skin barrier is compromised by a condition like acne, rosacea, or eczema. For added comfort, try combining azelaic acid with hydrating and soothing ingredients. “I love to pair it with niacinamide or hyaluronic acid to minimize irritation,” suggests Dr. Adisa.
Meet the experts
- Evan Rieder is a double board-certified dermatologist and psychiatrist in New York.
- Morayo Adisa is a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Dermatology Physicians in Chicago.
- Anetta Reszko is a board-certified dermatologist in New York.