To Scrub, Slough, or Chemically Dissolve? Experts Weigh In on How to Exfoliate Your Face the Right Way

When done right, exfoliation is like hitting the reset button for your skin, says Hewett. “It sweeps away the outermost layer of dead cells, instantly brightening your complexion and giving it that fresh, healthy glow. It also preps the skin so serums and moisturizers sink in more effectively. The key is balance, because too much exfoliation can leave skin irritated and compromise its protective barrier.”

Pavitt notes that one cause of acne is an overshedding of skin cells, so consistent exfoliation helps clear pores and reduce the likelihood of new blemishes. Exfoliating also improves product absorption, keeps pores clearer, and makes breakouts less frequent, says Dr. Bowles. “With consistent use, exfoliation can refine rough texture, brighten uneven tone, and even soften the look of fine lines by supporting cell turnover and collagen production. It encourages a smoother, more even surface, which can make makeup apply flawlessly.”

Other than promoting healthy skin overall, what does incorporating some form of exfoliation into your skincare actually do? Henry lists the following major benefits to sloughing away those dead skin cells:

• Reveals brighter skin by removing dead or damaged skin cells
• May stimulate collagen
• Improves overall skin texture and tone and smooths skin
• Allows for active ingredients to penetrate the skin deeper
• Unclogs pores and removes excess dirt, oil, and debris that might cause breakouts for those with oily skin

The upsides to skin exfoliation are just too good to pass up, but there are still a couple of things to take note of before you start scrubbing away.

The myriad ways to effectively break down the top layer of skin can be mystifying, but not all exfoliating products are made the same. The different types of exfoliation are as follows:

This is the process of manually dislodging dirt and stripping away surface cells and was once the gold standard of sloughing. Shereene Idriss, M.D., New York City-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Idriss, says this can be done with the use of abrasive substances or manual tools. Which leads us to…

Another form of physical exfoliation, mechanical leverages tech-savvy devices to buff the complexion. Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, facialist and founder of Raquel New York, lists in-clinic microdermabrasion or diamond abrasion as some of the physical treatments you can seek out. You can also look at dermaplaning, Medina-Cleghorn says, or dry brushing and other devices that you can use from the comfort of your couch (but more on that later).

Exfoliators, such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, have emerged as arguably some of the safest, and gentlest ways to break down the bonds between skin cells and decongest pores with experts advising patch tests to rule out any irritation before use, and nighttime applications to reduce photosensitivity during the day. You can also opt for in-office treatments for intense exfoliation, such as chemical peels. “This is where I feel acids really shine,” says Medina-Cleghorn. “Chemical peels are among my favorites.

But Idriss notes that it might not be for everyone. “Consult a dermatologist or a licensed skin care professional to determine if a chemical peel is needed and the appropriate type and strength of peel for your skin type and concern,” she says.

If you have a thick layer of dull skin that’s mostly due to dryness and flakes, not acne, Mattioli suggests starting with a mechanical exfoliating tool, which is often more effective than relying on high percentages of acids to break through initial buildup. Mattioli is a fan of Dermaflash Luxe, a device that uses a vibrating blade to ever-so-lightly “scrape away the top layer of skin,” she says; PMD Personal Microderm Classic, which combines spinning microdermabrasion discs that polish your face with “suction to pull out debris from pores,” offers a next step up, Mattioli adds. Los Angeles–based esthetician Shani Darden has long been wary of cleansing tools, many of which, she finds, “can be harsh on skin.” But Darden swears by the Nion Opus Luxe, which has soft, antibacterial silicone bristles that slough away dead skin cells “without causing irritation.”

Medina-Cleghorn says that there are many ways to use a chemical exfoliator. The most common products tend to come in acid toners, masks, and powders. She recommends using one exfoliator per routine. Having too many will compromise the skin barrier, she says.

Idriss then says to look for an exfoliating acid that will best suit your skin type. Oily, acne-prone skin, for example, will benefit from a chemical exfoliator that will unclog pores and reduce sebum. Those with dull skin will want to look for something that boosts collagen and brightens the complexion. Sensitive skin will need gentle exfoliators that won’t cause irritation. The most common ones are:

Once you’ve removed an initial round of dead skin, acids can further refine the surface and treat your pores, says Connecticut-based dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D. If you have nonreactive skin, Gohara suggests applying an acid-spiked serum after mechanical exfoliation. Of the overwhelming array of acids on the market, she prefers water-soluble alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which gently loosen the upper layers of skin—producing a peeling action—which helps to fade pigmented spots and even out rough or bumpy patches. Michelle Henry, M.D., says those with sensitive skin will want to use mild AHA like lactic acid to get the same exfoliating benefits in a gentler way says those with sensitive skin will want to use mild AHA like lactic acid to get the same exfoliating benefits in a gentler way. Mattioli is partial to mandelic acid, which she considers an “unsung hero” since it has a larger molecular size than other AHAs, so it doesn’t absorb quite as fast (also good thing if you have sensitive skin). Naturium’s new Mandelic Topical Acid 12% pairs this acid with skin-barrier-supporting niacinamide to prevent dryness. For a more intense treatment or for mature complexions, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all AHAs, so it penetrates the deepest and can build collagen in addition to improving texture and tone. Mattioli advises starting with a low dose, such as Krave Beauty’s Kale-Lalu-yAHA treatment-like toner with 5.25 percent glycolic acid, and increasing the strength gradually. Idriss likes to recommend The Ordinary’s 7% Glycolic Acid for beginners as it’s light and easy to incorporate into a routine. She also recommends her own Dr. Idriss Major Fade Flash Mask.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble and go deeper into the pores than AHAs to clear excess debris and sebum. Mattioli likes azelaic acid, such as The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, as its high molecular weight effectively kills bacteria while also reducing redness and swelling, making it gentle enough for treating acne and rosacea.

Henry says that oily and acne-prone skin can usually handle stronger chemical exfoliants and be used more frequently. This includes salicylic acid, which Mattioli says can penetrate deep into pores to unblock any congestion, even out skin tone, and smooth the surface. Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant has a devoted following among skin-care junkies. Dallas- and NYC-based aesthetician Joanna Czech, meanwhile, is loyal to the cultish Biologique Recherche P50, which “comes in a variety of strengths,” she says, including a gentle P50W with salicylic acid, “so you can adjust accordingly to your sensitivity and skin conditions.”

If you’ve got combination skin, Henry advises that you go with a balanced approach with a gentle chemical exfoliant and the occasional physical one.

A more streamlined chemical exfoliation option is to combine acids in one multitasking formula. Mattioli is partial to Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum, with a buffet of complexion-brightening ingredients (mandelic, lactic, and salicylic acids) and protective antioxidants, making it “such a well-rounded product,” she says. Carlos A. Charles, M.D., a Manhattan dermatologist and the founder of Derma di Colore, a medical practice that focuses on a range of different skin tones, who also  recently cofounded 456, a brand that’s specifically designed for skin of color, points to his To Be Clear Exfoliant Mask, with glycolic and salicylic acid, plus probiotics to firm and clear up skin.

Physical exfoliants can be used once a week, or every other week to maintain skin tone and clarity. Henry recommends wetting your face with lukewarm water before working in a small amount of a physical exfoliant like Kiehl’s Epidermal Re-Texturizing Microdermabrasion, which she says uses micronized shells to give your skin a gentle exfoliation. To avoid harsh scrubbing, you’ll want to massage your face in circular motions. Then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water before patting your face dry and following up with a moisturizer.

Mattioli prefers micro-exfoliants—or those with small-size, non-coarse particles—such as the poppy seeds and bamboo powder found in Holifrog’s Como Popp-E Renewal Scrubby Wash, or the brown rice and rosehip seeds in Klur’s Skin Soil, which comes in a dry powder that, when mixed with water, forms a low-friction scrub with just enough grit to disrupt debris without causing damage. Dermologica’s Daily Milkfoliant Exfoliator uses vegan oat powder but is gentle enough for daily use. If you’re sensitive, skip the scrubs altogether, and keep it simple with a washcloth, suggests Czech. “I just rinse with a linen washcloth, which is another great micro-exfoliator,” she elaborates. Move the cloth across your face in small, circular motions to soften any flakes so they can be easily washed away on their own.

This depends on a lot of different factors, says Medina-Cleghorn, and you’ll need to consider your age, skin condition, and the products already in your routine. “If you’re 25 and don’t have acne, you don’t need to exfoliate more than a couple of times per week,” she says. “If you’re 55 and don’t use a retinoid, then you should definitely start using one. But your skin can probably benefit from more frequent exfoliation.”

While there are plenty of very gentle exfoliators out there that claim you can do it every day, over-exfoliating your face daily may strip your skin, says Idriss, and can result in an inflamed, red skin barrier. She recommends using an exfoliating product of choice three to four times a week. You can decrease the frequency to two to three times a week in the summer.

You’ll also want to note that body exfoliation will be different. Because the body can tolerate more than your face, she says that physical exfoliation won’t cause problems as it would for the face. But she still recommends exfoliating your skin in general a few times a week.

Good intentions in skincare can sometimes go awry, especially when it comes to exfoliating. “It’s so easy to overdo it,” says Mattioli of striking the balance between featherlight- and heavy-handed exfoliation, the latter of which can lead to redness, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation, especially among women with Black or brown skin. “As a dermatologist who takes care of skin of color, I see a lot of aggressive exfoliation, and I’m often talking people down off the ledge—urging them to back off their faces,” confirms Charles. Henry adds that those with sensitive skin may react negatively towards certain ingredients. So pay attention to your skin and what works best with your skin type when exfoliating to avoid causing more damage.

By design, our skin naturally sheds dead cells in a 28-day cycle, but factors like dry, cold air, indoor heating, and stress can slow the process. Regular, mild exfoliation helps boost cellular turnover, says New York-based medical esthetician Jordana Mattioli, and is especially important in the winter months. Debris, oil, and bacteria can build up, clogging pores, so incorporating exfoliation into your skin-care routine can be just as effective as an in-spa facial for keeping skin clear and healthy.

“When choosing a face exfoliator, think of it like matchmaking,” says Dr. Bowles. “You’re pairing your skin’s needs with the right formula. Look for ingredient lists that address your main concerns—salicylic or glycolic acid for oily skin and congestion, lactic acid or fruit enzymes for dryness or sensitivity. If you’re acne-prone, tea tree oil or benzoyl peroxide can be helpful, but only with balanced hydration.” She also advises avoiding gritty scrubs with jagged particles, starting slowly with new acids to build tolerance, and never skipping SPF to protect progress.

Pavitt suggests finding something gentle enough to use consistently and separating actives in your routine. “Clients often overdo it with exfoliators,” she says. “My advice is always to go low and slow.” Hewett agrees, recommending gentle but effective acids like glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, and tartaric acids, as well as PHAs and natural enzymes like papain and bromelain. These work by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, lifting dullness without scratching. She cautions against anything with large, gritty particles like Himalayan salt, sea salt, nut shells, crystals, or walnut shells, which can cause microtears.

It depends on your skin and goals! Pavitt says acids are great for dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, while scrubs manually remove them from the surface. “I find newer scrubs tend to be more gentle, but it’s important to make sure you’re not using anything too abrasive to avoid damaging your skin barrier,” she says. “For my acne-prone clients, I always lean toward chemical exfoliation over physical as it’s less irritating on inflamed skin.”

Dr. Bowles agrees, adding that physical exfoliants can give an immediate smooth feel, but should be used sparingly to avoid over-exfoliation. “Acids like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic often offer a more even, controlled result and are better suited for consistent use,” she explains. “The best choice comes down to your skin’s tolerance, goals, and preference—sometimes a combination of both, used at different times, works beautifully.”

• Dr. Alexandra Bowles is a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati, OH.
• Athena Hewett is a celebrity aesthetician and founder of the botanical skin-care line Monastery Made.
• Sofie Pavitt is a New York–based celebrity aesthetician and founder of Sofie Pavitt Face.