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Top tip for anyone considering a holiday in Milos: hire a car. A four-wheel-drive vehicle, to be precise. The majority of the best hotels, restaurants, and beaches are spread across the Greek island, accessible via a network of snaking roads—some of which are slim, steep, and rocky, with the occasional sheer drop on one side. ATVs are another popular mode of transport on Milos, but I’d opt for a car if you want a more comfortable experience, especially if you visit in the height of summer (like I did) when the midday temperatures are upwards of 34 degrees Celsius.
In true Zillennial style, I first came across Milos on Instagram, where I saw Reels of its scenic views and various foodie hot spots. Of course, I wanted to explore beyond the buzzy, tourist spots, but they were a good starting point to get a feel for the isle and what it has to offer.
My friend and I (shout out to her, the designated driver for the trip), traveled to Milos by ferry from Sifnos, opting for a stunning two-and-a-bit journey on a slow ship, chosen over the tourist-friendly Sea Jets, which I was told can induce sea sickness—we didn’t want to take the risk. We sunbathed on the top deck, trying to hold onto our spinach and feta pastries (a must-have delicacy) and books as the Meltemi—the strong summer wind that takes over the Cyclades—threatened to send them overboard.
There are memes circulating about the Dune-esque experience when the bow doors of Greek island ferries drop down onto land, and I can attest it does feel quite otherworldly standing in the car park in the belly of the ship, waiting to see what lies ahead. First impressions: Milos harbour, Adamantas, is the tourist-y area of Milos. That said, there are several good eateries, namely, O! Hamos!—you can’t book, so arrive early if you want to get a table—and plenty of bars if that’s what you’re after. We watched the Euros final in Adamantas and it was positively bustling.
Venture north west, to Plaka and Tripiti, and you’ll find more busy restaurants, while the village of Klima is where you’ll find the perfect photo op: colorful fishing houses and a sunset. There are plenty of beaches that are a must-see on the north side, including the lunar-like Sarakiniko. This one was an Instagram recommendation—and so was Medusa, a nearby taverna overlooking the Mandrakia Bay. Be sure to get the octopus and the Greek salad.
Head east and you’ll come across Pollonia, another area with multiple restaurants, some of which only open in the evenings, but it’s considerably quieter than Adamantas. If you find yourself driving across the middle of the island, I’d advise a pit stop at O Zikos (a local favorite), which serves traditional dishes and daily specials (get the meatballs and pumpkin fritters, if available).
Given we were only there for a few days—stay longer, if you can—we didn’t manage to see the parts on the west side of Milos that are only accessible by boat. And, well, it sounds like we really missed out. You can rent boats or board chartered ones to take you around the caves and incredible hidden swimming spots. Definitely something for next time. We were also told that day trips to neighboring island, Kimolos, is a good one for the itinerary.
There are plenty of Airbnbs and villas on Milos, alongside a selection of hotels ideal for couples, solo travelers, and families alike. Scroll on to discover some of the best places to stay on Milos.
Skinopi Lodge
In short: Skinopi Lodge is a pocket of Greek heaven. Nestled up high in a nine-acre plot high on the north-east cove of Milos, with views of the uninhabited side in the near-distance, the seven villas that make up Skinopi have been created with the beautiful surroundings in mind; designed to not interrupt Milos’s natural beauty. Owned by Nausika and her family, every detail has been thoughtfully curated (and you can really tell), from the peaceful outdoor showers, to the well-equipped al fresco kitchens, to the clever split doors, the top of which can be opened to allow the Meltemi to breeze (gently) in the villas. Beyond the carefully-designed interiors, there are various personal touches that enhance the experience, including breakfast in a hamper that can be brought to your villa each day, full to the brim with local fruit, yogurt, homemade granola, honey, bread, and a stock of local products available to buy from the “minibar” selection. Nausika is also on hand to share invaluable tips, however with the private swimming deck cut into the rocks below (and the option to have groceries delivered), you could get away with barely leaving Skinopi. There’s no wonder regulars come back every year for more.
Noma Milos
Word has it that there have been guests who have happily stayed at Noma Milos, without leaving—bar the odd restaurant outing and beach trip—for two weeks. This was surprising to learn, given the very quiet, out-of-the-way location—but that’s exactly the appeal for those who want to go off-grid. It’s an easy, secluded hideaway, where couples have got engaged and solo travellers have unwound from their busy working lives. The rooms have a hotel feel, with comfortable beds, pared-back interiors, and incredible views of the ocean. Breakfast is available, but since there’s no restaurant or food on site, I recommend speaking to the ever-helpful George, who can give you a list of the best foodie destinations on the island, and can even handle bookings.
Milos Cove
The resort Milos Cove was built over several years by digging into the landscape, where they even found a historic obsidian workshop. This was our first experience of the slightly hair-raising Milos roads, which our Fiat Panda struggled—but managed!—to navigate. It is, quite literally, off the beaten track, in a corner of the island that overlooks Polygaios (meaning “many goats” in Greek) and Kimolos. Milos Cove is described as an “inception resort,” with a Greek-Italian restaurant, communal pool, gym, bar, boutique, private beach, and a spa—there are also private pools for each suite. (We were told that the inception concept is about the contrast of going from the darkened indoors of the reception, inspired by the geology and caves of the island, to the beaming sunlight outside.) The destination is perfect for anyone who wants to switch off, with all the amenities they may possibly need.
White Pebble Suites
Located in Pollonia, near the many beaches on the north side, White Pebble Suites is a resort-like boutique hotel that is a contemporary take on Greek architecture, with curved lines and white exteriors. The interiors are curved, too—a play on the “pebble” part of its name—with bright, minimalist rooms. The owners created the various amenities—wellness treatments, poolside dining and drinks, and a concierge service—with relaxation in mind. A day at White Pebble Suites might involve: sunbathing by the pool or on one of the private terraces connected to the suites (some of which have plunge pools), swimming in the sea at the rocky waterfront mere meters from the complex, having something to eat or drink at the bar, then heading out to explore another part of the island or watch the sunset.
