As one of the most famous Greek islands, Santorini sees an average of 3.4 million tourists annually, many of whom make a beeline for Oia—renowned for its legendary sunsets—and Fira, the island’s capital. Google Santorini and most, if not all, of the photos you’ll see feature dreamy images of the Cubist-looking white houses and blue church domes stacked on top of each other on the caldera. What you don’t see are the crowds of day-trippers who come off of cruise ships and clog up the narrow streets of these towns, the shops selling cheap souvenirs, and the fast-casual joints hawking kebabs and pasta to tourists who aren’t interested in authentic Greek cuisine.
But as I learned on a recent visit to the island, there’s so much more to Santorini than flying dress photo shoots and tourist traps. You just have to get a bit off the beaten path. Venture to the southern side of the croissant-shaped island and you’ll find a completely different landscape, with grapes growing low to the ground in small bushes, stone terraces, Medieval villages, and relaxed black sand beaches with crystal clear water.
“The biggest misconception, I feel, is that people think that Santorini is just the caldera and you just have to tick the boxes and go,” says Kalia Konstantinidou, who runs three hotels on the island with her husband Antonis Eliopoulous as part of Empiria Group. “They see the surface of the island and they’re not willing to deep dive because they feel that it’s only about the external beauty. And that’s an unfortunate assumption, because Santorini is an island that has so much context to give, especially if you start to explore the island, immerse yourself in the local life, get to know the traditions, and understand the DNA of the locals.”
Following my trip, I tapped Konstantinidou and Argy Kakissis, who runs Symposion Cultural Center with her husband, Yannis Pantazis, for more local tips for how to experience Santorini’s authentic side.
Where to Stay
The first hotel Konstantinidou and Eliopoulous opened on the island, Vedema, evolved from their summer home into a hotel after a neighbor convinced Eliopoulous to buy his vineyard and 400-year-old wine cellar in the little village of Megalochori more than 30 years ago. Now a member of Marriott’s Luxury Collection, it has 74 suites and villas, many with private pools. You can still do wine tastings in the historic cellar and savor Greek and Mediterranean cuisine at the hotel’s two restaurants.
Far from the crowds in Oia, Empiria Group’s smallest hotel has just 12 keys and is housed in the mansion and stables built in the 1970s by “the Italian lady,” an enigmatic socialite who loved to ride horses along the black sand beach. A member of Design Hotels, it’s one of the only hotels on the island with its own beach club, which is reserved exclusively for hotel guests—a major plus as most resorts on the island lack direct access to the sea.
If you dream of staying on the caldera but want to avoid the crowds, book a room at Grace Hotel in the quiet village of Imerovigli, which is located between Oia and Fira. With just 23 rooms and suites built right into the side of the cliff facing Skaros Rock, Grace is a sleek haven of tranquility with an infinity pool that lets you stare off into the infinite blue sea, an elegant restaurant by lauded chef Lefteris Lazarou, and a bar with cocktails by the team behind Athens’s buzzy Baba Au Rhum.
What to Do
This cultural center—that hosts music presentations, performances, and art exhibitions—is less than 20 minutes away from Fira, Santorini’s bustling capital, but it feels a world away. In the courtyard, people sip iced coffee or ouzo at mismatched vintage tables and chairs under a shady pergola before entering the main room for a musical presentation by Yannis Pantazis, who has recreated ancient Greek flutes, bagpipes, and lyres. Afterwards, stay for a panpipe-making workshop or browse books about Greek history and mythology. “It’s incredible for both of us to be able to preserve a part of our cultural heritage and give back to the wonderful travelers that visit our center,” says Kakissis.
“It’s quite a mainstream activity; almost everybody wants to do it. But still, it’s so beautiful because you jump on a catamaran and you have the possibility to see the island from the sea, while when you’re on the caldera, you see the island from the top down to the bottom,” says Konstaninidou.
This summer, after extensive renovations, the Archaeological Museum of Thera reopened in Fira with an exhibition dedicated to the untold stories of women in the Cyclades, which will run until October 31, 2025. As part of the exhibit, you can see the renowned Kori of Thera, a 7th-century BCE statue of a woman carved out of Naxian marble, not to mention statues of goddesses, ancient pottery, and frescoes.
At this little family-run winery in Megalochori, you can learn how wine has been produced on the island for hundreds of years, with clusters of grapes growing in little bunches low to the ground in order to protect them from the wind and help them collect moisture. This is a great place to try Assytirko, a dry white wine made with grapes indigenous to the island.
Though Hoper’s main business is helicopter transfers between various Greek islands, the company also offers tours that give you a bird’s eye view of the island. I recommend doing a sunset tour departing from a helipad in Oia for a thrilling way to see Santorini from top to bottom.
“I think it’s wonderful to meet local artists and to see their vision through their eyes,” Kakissis says. In particular, she recommends 1260 Ceramic Studio, Earth and Water pottery studio, and Xylo Wood Design in Megalochori, as well as Spira Marble Art Gallery run by fourth-generation marble sculptor Grigoris Kouskouris in Messaria.
Kakissis recommends visiting the prehistoric site of Akrotiri, on the southern end of the island, and the museum dedicated to it in Fira. “It was just a very advanced civilization. We’re talking three-story houses and plumbing systems and heated floors and flushing toilets,” she says.
Where to Eat
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For an unforgettable fine dining experience, book a table in time for sunset at this upscale restaurant in Katikies Santorini, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World in Oia. Run by Greek-Italian Michelin-starred chef Ettore Botrini, it will take you on a culinary journey through Greece and Italy with elegant dishes that celebrate both countries’ Mediterranean cuisine.
Another fabulous option in Oia is Lure Restaurant inside Mystique, a Luxury Collection Hotel run by Empiria Group. Expect cliffside dining with incredible views and sophisticated Mediterranean dishes, such as shrimp saganaki and carrot pappardelle with lobster.
Ask for an al fresco table overlooking the sea at Aktaion, a traditional family-run taverna in Firostefani that’s been serving homestyle Greek cuisine for more than a century. This is the place to feast on eggplant dip, grilled octopus over fava purée, and homemade mousakas in a charmingly old-school environment.
Konstaninidou recommends this humble fish taverna in Exo Gonia for “the best fish without frills, without any level of sophistication,” adding “the owner has his own fishing boat and he goes out fishing every day, and whatever he serves in his restaurant all comes from his boat.” Aside from fish, she loves the stuffed grape leaves and salad with lettuce, avocado, and capers dressed simply with lemon and olive oil.
Another favorite of Konstaninidou is this low-key beachfront spot in Perissa. “You’re not going to find ceviche or carpaccios of fish, you’re just going to find very good products, very good produce, with vegetables from their garden,” she explains, recommending the Greek salad in addition to fresh fish.
Where to Shop
“The best shop to find Greek designers with a fantastic curated collection is called Ammos, which means sand,” Konstaninidou says. “It’s like an institution, and they sell some great Greek brands with a great selection.”
Kassisis recommends this little atelier by Konstantina Spanou, who designs and makes jewelry in Megalochori. Her work has been exhibited at the Benaki Museum and the Cycladic Museum in Athens.
This little shop tucked away in a back alley in Fira is run by an Australian designer who sells her own designs as well as jewelry by other local designers.