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It’s hard to imagine that as little as 20 years ago, if Puglia was known to those outside of Italy at all, it was simply for being the heel on the peninsula’s boot. Fast forward two decades later, and the best hotels in Puglia have not only firmly cracked the code for a perfect Mediterranean vacation, they rank among the most desirable destinations for Italophiles who want to venture beyond the well-established tourist hotspots of Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast.
It’s not difficult to see why. The relatively flat landscape features some of the most gorgeous towns in Italy—from the bleached walls of Ostuni to the quaint domed roofs of Alberobello’s traditional trulli—most of which are packed with knotty medieval streets, gleaming white Baroque churches, and bustling markets. Around its lengthy coastlines you’ll find some of Italy’s most pristine beaches, from soft white sand to rocky plunge pools with crystal clear water. Then, of course, there’s the food. Puglia’s specialty, given it spans both the Adriatic and Ionian seas, is the freshest fish imaginable, with sea urchins and octopus serving as a particularly delectable highlight. It’s the birthplace of burrata, too; and don’t forget to try some orecchiette, handmade by a nonna on the winding streets of Bari’s old town.
It also helps that there is now a burgeoning scene of luxury hotels, all offering a surprisingly diverse mix of experiences. There are the traditional masserias, or farm complexes, with their whitewashed walls, rustling olive groves, and dusty pink sunsets, which have played no small part in it being nicknamed by some as “the new Tuscany,” even if comparing it to other Italian regions feels like underselling Puglia’s specific charms. Meanwhile, in Salento, the southern part of the region—the stiletto on the heel of the boot, if you like—a number of small-scale boutique hotels are offering a more eclectic range of genuinely unique stays.
All of which is to say, there’s never been a better time to visit the region. Here, Vogue rounds up seven of the best hotels in Puglia to visit this summer—and return to, again and again.
Borgo Egnazia
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Walking through the cobbled streets that comprise Borgo Egnazia as the evening light casts a golden glow over the clocktower, you wouldn’t guess for a moment that this sprawling, breathtakingly beautiful property was only built in 2010. That’s right: Every one of Borgo Egnazia’s meticulously designed rooms, suites, and villas—183 in total—might appear centuries-old on the surface, but they reach a world standard in luxury mod cons. (Rumor has it that architect Pino Brescia, a native Puglian who was hired for his knowledge of the quirks of the region’s traditional building techniques, even went around chipping at the walls with a chisel to ensure the creamy local sandstone looked as authentically weathered as possible.) When you find yourself getting pleasantly lost in Borgo Egnazia’s alleyways, it’s clear that was part of the plan.
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While Borgo Egnazia is very much the brainchild of couple Aldo Melpignano and Camilla Vender—the latter also runs an exquisitely curated boutique, Bottega Egnazia, as part of the hotel complex—the story actually runs a generation further back; specifically, to Melpignano’s parents. After establishing Masseria San Domenico, the first luxury hotel in the region in 1996, Sergio and Marisa Melpignano played a crucial role in establishing Puglia as the growing tourist hotspot it is today by making a conscious effort to market the region abroad. With Melpignano and Vender’s willingness to both take up the mantle and push that vision to the next level, the wildly ambitious Borgo Egnazia project came to be.
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There are almost too many experiences available at Borgo Egnazia to list: two beach clubs, a golf course, an atmospheric spa inspired by Roman baths, vintage car tours, cooking classes, oil and wine tastings, and trekking. But despite the enormous scale of the complex and the near-overwhelming number of things to do, there’s an innate sense of calm that radiates from the property’s white stone walls, as well as a sense of total privacy within each of the bedrooms or casette suites, named quite literally after “little houses.” (This feeling of seclusion is undoubtedly a reason why it’s become a particular celebrity favorite, most famously hosting Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel’s 2012 wedding. Recent guests have included Victoria and David Beckham.) Borgo Egnazia’s tagline is “nowhere else”—after a few days in paradise there, you’ll find it impossible to disagree.
Amenities: Restaurant, bar, swimming pools, wellness center, tennis courts, private beach club, spa
Address: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72010 Savelletri di Fasano, Italy
Castello di Ugento
In the region of Salento, 15 minutes or so inland from the white sandy beaches that line the peninsula’s southern tip, lies the tranquil town of Ugento. And at its heart sits Castello di Ugento, the impressive castle at the town’s highest point. Most of what is visible today was constructed in the 17th century, but it also features the foundations of an 11th-century Norman tower, rediscovered while the building was being lovingly refurbished half a decade ago, and that can now be seen through glass floors in the dining area.
It’s the kind of attention to detail—and instinct for preservation—that characterizes the property’s restoration at the hands of Massimo d’Amore and his partner, Diana Bianchi. (The d’Amore family’s ownership of the castle dates all the way back to its 17th-century splendor.) Nine individually decorated rooms are complemented by an orchard garden as well as a sister property a few minutes down the road, Masseria Le Mandorle, that features a swimming pool and slick sports facilities.
A major highlight here is the food: The hotel restaurant, Il Tempo Nuovo, sees chef Tommaso Sanguedolce put an impressively fresh and unfussy twist on traditional Puglian cuisine, while the now well-established Puglia Culinary Centre offers cooking courses and classes for everyone from beginners to Michelin-star chefs wanting to learn more about Italian cuisine. Finally, there’s an impressive series of rooms on the building’s piano nobile featuring Baroque frescoes that have been recently restored, within which Bianchi is gearing up to stage a series of exhibitions featuring contemporary artists both local and from further afield. When it comes to offering opportunities for Puglian cultural immersion, Castello di Ugento is hard to beat.
Amenities: Restaurant, bar, garden, bicycle rentals, terrace
Address: 13 Via Castello, 73059 Ugento, Italia
Masseria Trapanà
Just 15 minutes from the center of Lecce, a rural road will guide you to the gates of Masseria Trapanà: a leafy oasis that stands out as one of Puglia’s most charming stays. Stepping into the expansive courtyard that serves as the beating heart of this sprawling, white-stoned farm complex, and further into the vaulted lobby—complete with plush sofas and stacks of coffee-table books to invite you to immediately settle in and relax—what strikes you first is the deceptive simplicity of the decor. Here, a spare yet supremely elegant tastefulness reigns: think four-poster beds designed in wiry wrought iron, soothing neutrals, and an emphasis on contemporary local craftsmanship. (In my first-floor room with sweeping views over the fields beyond, there was a stylish, striking red rug hung across one wall.)
You’d be forgiven for thinking the property was overseen by a dyed-in-the-wool Pugliese family, but in fact, it’s the brainchild of the Australian Rob Potter-Sanders, who discovered the 16th-century property over a decade ago and opened its doors in 2015. With just nine suites, it’s an object lesson in how to run a boutique hotel: even as other (supremely chic, typically linen-clad) guests wafted by, there was a feeling you were staying at your very own private villa, or at least the holiday home of the coolest people you know. Everything is relaxed, from afternoons spent lazing by the Edenic swimming pool, birds zipping through the olive trees, to the stunning, grotto-like underground spa, carved into the historic network of storage rooms below the main villa. And when it’s time for lunch? Tuck into a perfectly cooked plate of seafood spaghetti and a glass of crisp, chilled Salento white wine under the lemon trees. It’s an oh-so-laid-back slice of la dolce vita.
Amenities: Restaurant, garden, swimming pool, hot tub, terrace
Address: Strada Vicinale Masseria Trapana 9, 73100 Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Daniele
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Another option in the Salento region is Palazzo Daniele, found in the small but inviting town of Gagliano del Capo that is merely five minutes drive from some of the region’s most spectacular beaches. Yet the real delights of Palazzo Daniele lie within its own 19th-century walls, which, despite being smack in the center of town, include peaceful gardens and a beautifully outfitted swimming pool. The hotel’s playful but tastefully realized decor is partly the result of its previous life hosting artist residencies. Its owner, former lawyer and art collector Francesco Petrucci, decided to collaborate with his friend Gabriele Salini—who also owns the modish G-Rough hotel in Rome—to convert the property into a 16-room boutique stay that opened in the spring of 2019.
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The result is a charming mish-mash of ceiling frescoes with cutting-edge contemporary art, sympathetically reconciled by the Milanese architects and designers Ludovica and Roberto Palomba. The monastic plaster walls have been left largely untouched, their weathered surfaces and cracks kept intact, with any interventions largely offered by artist-designed light fittings and the occasional piece of carefully placed modernist furniture. Each room contains its own unexpected details. The bathroom might be accessed by a narrow staircase that once included a secret passageway that extended all the way to the nearby beaches, while even a more conventional en suite features a rain shower in the middle of the room with a shell-like basin, so you can live out your best Birth of Venus fantasy.
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Again, the culinary offering is a major highlight here. An open kitchen means you can help yourself to pastries or request eggs your way in the morning with the help of local cooks whose families have lived in the town for generations; at lunch, they’ll prepare a meal of however many courses you can handle in the shaded area by the pool, all sourced from local farmers. At night, the outdoor area transforms once again, with string lights sparkling in the trees and an on-site bartender ready to whip up one of their signature inventive cocktails. The hotel’s motto is “questa casa non è un albergo,” or “this house is not a hotel,” a fact that is reflected in the generously proportioned shared living areas and the open bar built around a former religious shrine. (Petrucci previously kept an apartment within the complex that was recently converted into one of the hotel’s suites, demonstrating it’s more than just a tagline.) After a few hours within Palazzo Daniele, you’ll feel like the place is yours too.
Amenities: Open kitchen, bar, swimming pool, spa, coffee shop
Address: Corso Umberto I 60, 73034 Gagliano del Capo, Italy
Masseria Calderisi
A relative newcomer to the scene—and all the more energetic for it—Masseria Calderisi was established in 2021 by its charismatic German owners, Max and Jutta von Braunmühl, who fell in love with Puglia in the 2000s and married in the region a decade ago. (The pair, and their children, can often be found mingling with guests, whether escorting them to the sea in a four-wheel drive or stopping by their dinner tables for a digestivo.) There’s an exuberant feeling about this property, evident in the range of activities on offer—an afternoon at their private strip of beach, a boat trip along the Adriatic, or a body scrub at the spa with honey, salt, and lemon from the masseria’s gardens—as well as in its lovely boutique which stocks local ceramics, jams, and olive oils alongside casual pieces and beachwear from the likes of Etro, Max Mara, and Missoni.
This sense of warmth and liveliness extends to the impeccable hospitality, which manages to be friendly and keenly attentive without ever feeling overbearing. So too is it visible in the organic conviviality between guests, many of whom are clearly satisfied to chat about finding this undiscovered gem within the region’s ever-growing number of luxury masserias. If you’re looking to strike up conversation with those on the sun lounger next to you, there’s no awkwardness here; you might even bump into them again while participating in a morning bread-baking session in the hotel’s restored wood-fire oven, or at the pizza party in the large courtyard that takes place twice a week. Masseria Calderisi is a slice of classic Puglian paradise with a fresh, youthful-feeling twist.
Amenities: Restaurant, bar, terrace, swimming pool, fitness center
Address: Contrada Sarzano 12/a, 72015 Savelletri di Fasano, Italy
Paragon 700 Boutique Hotel Spa
Even from the outside, Paragon 700 is no ordinary Italian palazzo. Its striking facade of red rusticated stone sticks out within the spectacular “white city” of Ostuni, while the restored vintage car that sits outside offers something of a clue to its unconventional mix of the past and present. But stepping inside is to enter another world entirely. The weird and wonderful brainchild of its founders, interior designers and partners Pascale Lauber and Ulrike Bauschke, they clearly saw the restoration of this mysterious building (its exact origins and dates of construction still remain largely unknown) as an opportunity to unleash their wildest design instincts. The property opened in 2020 with delightful results.
The expansive bar area is Baroque by way of Tim Burton: statues of macabre grinning monkeys sit next to defaced reinterpretations of Renaissance paintings, while candelabras dripping with red wax line the tables where artist-designed sofas are upholstered with sewn-together silk ties. The hotel’s 11 individually designed rooms are intentionally more relaxed, with frescoed ceilings, warm lighting fixtures, and stonewashed linen sheets. Despite the flamboyant trappings of its decor, however, both wellness and sustainability are a priority here. The spa, reached by glass elevator and built into the underground caves that are atmospherically lit with candles, feature a hydromassage basin, a Turkish bath, a Himalayan salt wall, and even a natural whirlpool dug deeper into the ground. Meanwhile, the hotel’s commitments to micro-CHP energy, zero plastics, and local construction materials are also notable.
Probably the biggest facet of Paragon 700’s appeal, though, is its prime location within Ostuni, one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region, but that somehow manages never to feel wildly overcrowded. Getting lost in the city’s labyrinth of alleyways and admiring its Gothic cathedral are unmissable elements of a Puglian vacation all on their own—but knowing you can return to the homely environs of Paragon 700 for a refreshing dip in the pool, a cocktail as delightfully offbeat as the decor, and finally a meal in their gourmet, open-kitchen Restaurant 700 to round off the evening makes the experience all the sweeter.
Amenities: Restaurant, bar, spa, swimming pool, free parking
Address: Largo Michele Ayroldi Carissimo 14, 72017 Ostuni, Italy
Baglioni Masseria Muzza
One of the splashiest new openings in Puglia in recent memory came courtesy of Baglioni Hotels Resorts, the Italian-owned and run luxury hotel group placing a particular emphasis on the country’s cultural hotspots—and their latest property, located a few miles out of Otranto and overlooking the idyllic Lake Alimini, doesn’t disappoint. Opened in 2022, Masseria Muzza is a sprawling complex of 17th-century whitewashed farmhouses that have been sensitively updated to feature all of the uber-deluxe mod cons you’d expect from a hotel of its caliber.
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Those who need to be by a body of water at all times to truly relax will find succor here. The jewel in Masseria Muzza’s crown is its enormous infinity pool—featuring in-built hydromassage loungers and island platforms—for cooling off in the Puglian summer heat, while a shuttle service will whisk you away to a nearby beach in central Otranto with a dedicated area and sunloungers if you fancy a dip in the sea. (The hotel is also mere minutes away from the sparkling blue waters of one of the region’s most breathtaking beaches, the Baia dei Turchi.) Elsewhere, a cavernous spa complex features every amenity you could dream of, from an ice fountain to a Finnish sauna to a steam bath.
Equally top-notch are the hotel’s culinary offerings, from a relaxed poolside restaurant perfect for enjoying a lazy lunch of salads and light pasta dishes to the restaurant in the evening—decorated with the region’s famously flamboyant luminarie, or twinkling colored lights, and surrounded by lemon trees—which offers local cooking alongside wood-fired pizzas. (There are also gourmet tasting menus on offer at the resort’s third restaurant, Le Site, if that’s your bag.) If it’s pure, unadulterated indulgence you’re seeking, Masseria Muzza is the one to beat.
Amenities: Restaurants, swimming pools, wellness center, spa
Address: Via Muzza 7, 73028 Otranto, Italy
La Fiermontina
If you’re looking for the perfect city base to explore the south of Puglia, look no further than Lecce, the Salento town whose historic center is packed with dozens of churches and palazzi decorated with intricate Baroque carvings cut from the local limestone. (Throughout the day, as the natural light shifts, they seem to almost magically change color.) And if you’re then looking for somewhere to stay in the heart of the city, the names to know are La Fiermontina and its sister property Palazzo Bozzi Corso.
The former sits on the outskirts of the centro storico, thus featuring an unusual amount of space for a city stay in the typically narrow, winding streets of the region, as well as 18 individually designed rooms that blend the traditional trappings of Pugliese decor, from crisp white linens and cream stone walls, with elegant mid-century furniture in muted tones arranged just so. And that’s without mentioning the lush gardens and perfectly sized pool surrounded by olive trees, ready for when you need to cool off after a day of wandering Lecce’s bustling markets and museums.
Palazzo Bozzi Corso, meanwhile, is situated slap-bang in the middle of the city, just steps away from the breathtakingly ornate facade of the Basilica di Santa Croce. Step into the courtyard of this historic palazzo from the busy street outside, however, and an atmospheric hush takes over (and that’s before even heading down to its subterranean wellness space). The interiors speak to the design nous of its owners, the Fiermonte family—the high-ceilinged rooms on the piano nobile best show off their masterful eye for color and proportion—and its the rich history of the family and their guardianship of the property that resonates most strongly, lending these two perfectly Leccese properties their beating heart.
Amenities: Restaurant, swimming pool, bar
Address: Piazzetta Scipione De Summa, 4, 73100 Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Presta
Palazzo Presta is located in Gallipoli, a somewhat off-the-beaten-track town on the west coast of Salento that, before you ask, bears no relation to the Turkish peninsula of the same name. And as far as the city’s selection of hotels go, Palazzo Presta stands head and shoulders above the rest. Not only is it right in the beating heart of Gallipoli’s historic island old town (and merely a few hundred yards from its convenient, centrally located beach, the Spiaggia della Purità) but Palazzo Presta’s achingly stylish interiors would be worth the trip alone.
Its owners, Eugenia and Antonio, have reinvented its rabbit warren interiors to balance in-the-know nods to design history with a sense of worldly eclecticism, the walls decorated in bold colors and adorned with everything from maritime flags to vintage Japanese prints to racy contemporary photography. The real star of the show, however, is its rambling, two-story rooftop terrace, which features views over the city that can be enjoyed from plush striped seating—and, of course, an inventive cocktail courtesy of the terrace’s dedicated rooftop bar, open every evening just in time for a sundowner.
Amenities: Restaurant, bar, bicycle rentals
Address: 29 Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 73014 Gallipoli, Italy
Don Totu
As with so many hotels in this region, Don Totu occupies an 1800s-era home akin to a hidden country palace. What sets it apart from the others is its owners—two Italian university professors—both with a fidelity to historic preservation. Tucked away in the sleepy village of Salento, this intimate six-room property is hidden behind a relatively nondescript doorway on a small piazza—but once you step through its doors, you’ll find a surprisingly sprawling (and entirely tranquil) haven, with plenty of space to spread out across its secluded terraces and courtyards beneath the shade of olive trees.
Fill your days with activities like daily yoga, a dip in the enormous al fresco swimming pool, treatments in the spa, and culinary highlights such as complimentary cocktail hours and olive oil tastings. One night each week, guests are treated to an outdoor rooftop cinema and pizza gathering, and on Sundays and Mondays, a local chef comes to Don Totu to showcase the region’s seasonal dishes (each paired with wines from surrounding cellars). Plus, if you’re keen to explore the region, the hotel can arrange Vespa and bike tours that whisk you away to local trattorias and ancient villages. Don Totu offers a little bit of everything—all served with a side of authentic Salento charm.
Amenities: Swimming pool, pool house, garden, fitness center, spa, complimentary vespas and e-bikes
Address: Via Crocefisso, 10, 73020 San Cassiano LE, Italy
Casina Cinquepozzi
Okay, so it’s not technically a hotel, but the exclusive-use property Casina Cinquepozzi is this year’s buzziest opening in Puglia—and for good reason. Located down a winding set of streets on the outskirts of Putignano, this grand 18th-century manor house sits within 40 acres of working farmland, and offers the opportunity to live like a Puglian lord for a week or two. But Casina Cinquepozzi also has a couple of unexpected tricks up its sleeve, which you can chalk up to its owners: the London-based couple Stefano Liotta (originally from Naples, he spent nearly two decades as an Apple executive) and Thelma West (originally from Lagos, she’s a cult-favorite jewelry designer who has created pieces for the likes of Rihanna and Zendaya). Not only have they spent the past few years meticulously restoring the property to its former glories (and we really mean meticulous—the level of detail and care that has gone into everything from the “breathing” air circulation system to the naturally purified water is genuinely astonishing), they’ve also brought their personalities to bear on the interiors, which feature plenty of tech-y touches as well as a dazzling array of largely African artworks from West’s personal collection that make this more than your average holiday rental.
So, what does one actually do at a home this picturesque? A dip in the outdoor swimming pool is a good idea, for starters—and don’t miss the former pigsty that has been reimagined into a wine cellar, nor the delightful hammam in another thoughtfully renovated outbuilding, nor the miniature chapel embedded into the estate’s walls. You can reconnect with nature through a leisurely stroll among the recently planted woodland or through the orchards and olive trees, all of which speak to the regenerative approach to agriculture—the benefits of which can be sampled in the rosé wine and olive oil made on the estate. Meanwhile, the in-house chef Oliviero is just as assured when whipping up a heaving lunch spread of various pastas and salads as he is a gourmet five-course dinner of a poached egg and asparagus or an impossibly succulent slice of grilled Chianina beef. The team here will also be happy to arrange local experiences (a visit to the studio of papier-mâché artist Deni Bianco, who creates colossal floats every year for Putignano’s carnival—supposedly the oldest in Europe—was a highlight) but that would require you leaving the property, which, as you’ll discover when you arrive, is far easier said than done.
Amenities: Pool, spa with hammam and outdoor hot tub, lounge bar, private chef
Address: Str. Comunale Elce, 70017 Putignano BA, Italy
Palazzo Zimara
For those wishing to spend a few extra days in Lecce, there’s a new—and very slick—hotel to visit in the heart of the city. Dating all the way back to 1557, this Baroque palazzo was placed in the hands of architect Raffaele Centonze to transform into a hotel, and opened late last summer as a thoughtfully restored 16-key delight. Two restaurants, an outdoor garden, and rooftop terrace (set to open later this year) round out Palazzo Zimara, and design details like restored frescoed walls, original cobblestone floors, and arched entryways cement the residence’s formidable history. More interestingly, though, it’s all offset with plenty of contemporary design details, such as the glass and steel elevator at the heart of the property, or the copious Italian designer furniture scattered throughout the rooms, from Flos lighting to beds upholstered in Salotificco Scatiga leather.
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A particular highlight of the Palazzo is the “Princess Room” named after Isabelle Scaderberg. This noblewoman from Lecce lived in the residence during the 1700s and—this room being her favorite—was redesigned as a tribute to her and now features a two-level shower and private balcony. (Other suites, meanwhile, feature in-room jacuzzis and private saunas, for when you need to relax after a long day trudging the cobbled streets.) The mostly local staff will be happy to offer plenty of their insider’s tips to explore Lecce, and you’ll want to take them up on that offer—while the impossibly fresh pink shrimp tartare and mezze maniche pasta with caviocavallo cream at the in-house La Bocca restaurant are not to be missed, Palazzo Zimara is also the perfect launchpad for exploring the culinary wonders of the surrounding city.
