How the Best Oils for Hair Growth Can Hydrate, Strengthen, and Support the Scalp

Technically, applying hair oil to your scalp doesn’t directly stimulate hair growth. Small explains, “The ingredients in these oils can improve blood circulation, moisturize the scalp, and neutralize free radicals, creating a healthier environment for hair to grow.” In other words, while hair oils don’t cause hair to grow, they can support scalp health and strengthen hair follicles, which may contribute to overall hair quality.

“The hair growth cycle can last between two to seven years, and the better supported the follicles are, the longer the growth cycle,” Small says. “This directly affects the length, density, and vibrancy of your strands.”

Dr. Camp further emphasizes the benefits of hair oils, noting that they “help repair dry, damaged hair by restoring moisture, delivering essential vitamins and nutrients, and reducing shedding and breakage.”

Small adds that many of his clients experience some degree of hair shedding, thinning, or loss and often ask where to start. “If you’re prone to a dry scalp, an oil can be a great way to deliver active ingredients that support the hair follicle while also soothing dryness and irritation. Similar to the soil a plant grows in, if the scalp is dry, irritated, and inflamed, the follicle (root) below won’t be able to grow at an optimal rate.”

It’s also important to understand what specific hair growth concern you’re trying to address. Small explains that, for example, if you’ve had excessive sun exposure, the oxidative stress caused by free radicals would require a formula rich in antioxidants. If you’re postpartum and experiencing the “big shed,” ingredients that stimulate blood circulation would be ideal. And if you’re noticing hair thinning or loss near the temples or the crown, you may need an ingredient that combats dihydrotestosterone (DHT).

Rosemary Oil: According to Small, rosemary oil may be as effective as minoxidil in promoting hair growth and preventing hair loss, with some studies even showing better results in reducing scalp itching. Rosemary oil contains compounds like carnosic acid and eucalyptol, which can stimulate hair follicles, improve blood circulation, and combat DHT—DHT, a byproduct of testosterone, is produced by both men and women. When DHT levels are high, the hormone can shrink or suffocate hair follicles, leading to thinning hair and, in some cases, hair loss. By helping to counteract DHT’s effects, rosemary oil may support healthier, fuller hair growth.

Fractionated Coconut Oil: Per Small, this is an excellent carrier oil for active ingredients. As a moisturizer, it is lightweight, fast-absorbing, and non-greasy, making it ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin.

Pumpkin Seed Oil and Saw Palmetto Oil: According to Dr. Camp, these oils may help with hair loss due to their antiandrogenic and anti–5α-reductase properties. This means they may inhibit the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into DHT, a key factor in hair thinning and loss.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil or Safflower Seed Oil: Small says that both of these oils are moisturizing, nourishing, and beneficial for maintaining a balanced scalp. “While these ingredients may not directly stimulate hair growth, they are unlikely to clog follicles or hinder it. When choosing a scalp oil, the carrier oil makes up the majority of the formula and is just as important as the active ingredients.”

Jojoba or Chia Seed Oil: Small explains that both of these contain niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, which provides several benefits for the scalp, including reducing inflammation, balancing oil production, improving hydration, and creating a healthier environment for hair growth. Specifically, niacinamide promotes blood circulation and supports keratin production, which is essential for strong, thick hair that can grow longer.

Argan Oil and Mineral Oils: Dr. Camp says these are often regarded as effective hair oils that help fortify hair by improving moisture retention, strengthening strands, and delivering nutrients and antioxidants that protect hair follicle cells from oxidative stress.

Tea Tree Oil: If dandruff or an itchy scalp is your main concern, Dr. Camp recommends tea tree oil, which is known for its anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antibacterial properties.

When applying hair oils, Small suggests using them before washing your hair, ideally 30 to 90 minutes before showering. “I always start by detangling and stimulating the scalp with a scalp brush to remove surface buildup and promote blood circulation in the hair follicles. This helps the oil absorb more effectively and ensures the follicles are ‘awake’ for better results.”

Dr. Camp recommends using hair oils as a mask to deeply penetrate the hair and enhance moisture levels. Another option is to add a small amount to your favorite conditioner to improve softness and pliability. He also suggests mixing oil with water in a spray bottle for a lightweight styling treatment or an extra hydration boost throughout the day.

Whichever application method you choose, blood circulation is key—this can be achieved using fingertips, a scalp brush, or even red laser light therapy to stimulate the scalp and maximize benefits.

However, Dr. Camp warns that applying oils too close to the scalp or roots may lead to scalp irritation, clogged pores, or even acne in some individuals. Additionally, Small advises against leaving oils on the scalp for extended periods, such as overnight. “A clogged follicle can lead to itchiness or irritation, which may disrupt scalp health and have adverse effects on hair growth,” he explains. For optimal results, keep your scalp care routine simple and consistent to support long-term hair health.

• Dr. Brendan Camp is a double board-certified dermatologist in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology Cosmetic Surgery.
• Jay Small is a certified trichologist, celebrity hairstylist and cofounder of Arey.