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Sometimes, the most standout beauty solutions are also the simplest. Using coconut oil for hair that’s hydrated, lustrous, and flake-free may sound like too easy a fix, but for many the naturally occurring fatty oil rivals even the most cultish of products. “During COVID, I started experimenting and using natural products and I was using coconut oil on my hair once a week,” says celebrity extensionist Priscilla Valles. “The hydration and shine it provides is beyond amazing.”
Applying coconut oil to tired strands makes sense. The oil is derived from raw, mature coconuts and composed of 100% predominantly unsaturated fat. Fatty acids in coconut oil (principally lauric acid) can contribute to hair health when employed correctly. There are, of course, caveats and limits to what coconut oil can offer, but its all-natural status and affordability make testing the treatment for yourself entirely worthwhile—especially for those whose hair has been looking lackluster. “Coconut oil has benefits for all hair types but is best used on dry, damaged, or color-treated hair to lock in moisture and prevent breakage,” says celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons.
Whether you’re already a convert or are just coconut curious, here’s what you need to know about coconut oil for hair health—and how to incorporate it into your hair-care routine.
Key Takeaways
- Coconut oil comes with many hair benefits, including strengthening strands to reduce hair breakage and protecting hair from heat damage.
- While coconut oil doesn’t directly help hair growth, its benefits help boost hair health overall.
- You can use coconut oil for hair in many ways, such as a prewash treatment, conditioning mask, and scalp treatment.
What Are the Benefits of Coconut Oil for Hair?
For fans of natural products and ingredients, coconut oil is close to magic. The oil is commonly used topically to moisturize skin and calm dermatitis; swished around the mouth to the benefit of gums and teeth; and easily incorporated into a healthy diet. And, of course, the efficacious oil’s mane benefits are myriad.
“Coconut oil is a great ingredient to implement into your hair routine because it has nourishing fatty acids, which help moisturize and strengthen the hair and prevent breakage,” says Fitzsimons. According to research, coconut oil actually reduces protein loss in both damaged and undamaged hair. Its makeup allows it to penetrate the hair shaft, the better to deliver hydration, leading to softer and shinier strands and enhanced texture.
In addition to boosting your mane itself, coconut oil’s moisturizing, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties make it a scalp-health hero too. The oil helps to treat fungus and subsequent flaking in the short term, and some research says that it can help repair the scalp’s moisture barrier over time.
And finally? “Coconut oil can also be used in your styling routine as a natural heat protectant to reduce hot-tool damage,” says Fitzsimons. He’s right: Coconut oil’s penetrative properties condition hair, seal the cuticle, and lock in moisture, protecting hair from potential damage that comes with your go-to dryers and irons. The oil also helps to tame frizz, resulting in sleeker, softer styles.
Can Coconut Oil Help Hair Grow?
According to Hadley King, MD, a New York City board-certified dermatologist, there are no credible studies that link the use of coconut oil to hair growth. “It does not directly affect hair growth,” Dr. King says. “But it may provide benefits that improve the health of the hair overall.”
She explains that because coconut oil has emollient properties, it reduces hair breakage and makes hair less brittle. This results in longer hair over time. So while you shouldn’t be using coconut oil for the sole purpose of growing hair back, using it comes with other helpful benefits.
Can Coconut Oil Damage Hair?
Though coconut oil is a cure-all for many hair woes, it’s not necessarily a universal solution, and certain application factors should be considered before you start slathering strands in the fatty oil.
“As a person with a fine texture of hair, it’s actually my archnemesis,” says Illeisha Lussiano, hairstylist and owner of New York’s The Way. “It often causes fine hair to become brittle and break.” These undesirable results occur when coconut oil is unable to penetrate the hair, whether due to natural texture or too much of a good thing. “Be careful not to use it in excess,” cautions Fitzsimons. “Coconut oil will sit on top of your strands, which will not allow essential nutrients to penetrate the shaft and cause your hair to feel dry and brittle—the opposite effect of what you’re looking for.”
Even if breakage does not occur, coconut oil applied too liberally or sans strategy can result in hair that looks greasy and grimy rather than well tended.
Unrefined Coconut Oil Versus Refined Coconut Oil
When selecting a beauty-ready coconut oil, choosing an unrefined (or virgin) option is your best bet. Unlike refined coconut oil, a processed iteration derived from the dry kernels of the coconut, unrefined, pure coconut oil is crafted from the fruit while it’s fresh and is largely chemical-free.
Think of coconut oil as you would green juice: A cold-pressed option will be much closer to the source (and its benefits) than one made from dried, chemically treated ingredients.
How Often Should You Use Coconut Oil for Hair?
Dr. King says this is dependent on your hair type and how you are using it. But generally she recommends using coconut oil once or two times a week, applying it 30 minutes to an hour before rinsing it off if you’re using it as a prewash treatment. If you’re looking to use it as a conditioner, she says you can use it as often as you shampoo, applying tiny amounts on damp ends after washing your hair. As a scalp-massage oil, she recommends using it occasionally or once a week.
How to Apply Coconut Oil to Hair
Applying coconut oil to hair is all about finding what works best for you, a process that will likely involve some trial and error. (And to make sure it’s safe to use on your skin, always do a patch test for allergies.) One person’s high-shine hack may be another’s hyper-greasy hair day, so be sure to start with diminutive amounts and allot time for potential restyling.
For most treatments, experts recommend rinsing coconut oil out post-use—though a small amount used as a styling oil offers an exception. We suggest starting with an overnight mask or scalp treatment to see how your hair responds. Here are five easy ways to start incorporating coconut oil into your mane routine.
Rather than relying on coconut oil as a finisher, Fitzsimons opts to use the ingredient—or products containing it—as an easy DIY mask that works while you sleep.
“One of my favorite ways to use coconut oil is as an overnight leave-in to nourish and condition dehydrated locks,” says Fitzsimons. “Take a coconut-oil mask, and distribute a small, even amount throughout your hair and scalp. Leave it on overnight, and rinse in the morning.” Fitzsimons recommends repeating the process once a week for strong, hydrated hair. (Pro tip: Coconut oil can stain fabric, so opt for a shower cap when masking overnight.)
Coconut oil is also effective for prewash hair treatment. “Hard water and washing the hair can sometimes strip the hair of natural oils and cause dryness and breakage,” says Fitzsimons. “To avoid this, you can add a small amount of coconut oil to your hair pre-shower to avoid damage and dryness.” The oil does this by infusing and coating strands, guarding against over-absorption.
Though coconut oil does work in lieu of leave-in conditioner and is an effective detangler, rinsing it out eventually is a must, the better to avoid greasiness and buildup. Apply warm (a.k.a. liquified) oil to lengths post-shampoo, let sit for two hours, and wash again. The double wash means that this process is best for those with thick, hearty strands.
Massaging coconut oil into the scalp increases circulation, quells fungus and inflammation, and bolsters your moisture barrier. While masking or conditioning, use fingers or a scalp massager to coax the oil into the roots for a natural dry scalp and hair treatment.
As noted above, coconut oil works well as a natural heat protectant. Additionally, a touch of coconut oil is ideal for calming frizzy hair and flyaways, increasing shine, and obscuring split ends. Apply a pea-size amount to wet hair or dry lengths as a shield or finisher (or both!), adding more as your hair allows.
Meet the Experts
- Priscilla Valles, celebrity extensionist
- Andrew Fitzsimons, celebrity hairstylist
- Illeisha Lussiano, hairstylist and owner of New York’s The Way
- Hadley King, MD, a New York City board-certified dermatologist
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.
