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It’s no secret that fashion is embracing the uniform. Following February’s New York shows, trend reports highlighted the return of wearable, everyday clothing—among that, some of the best pleated skirts. Proenza Schouler showed a series of well-tailored suits, Eckhaus Latta perfected wide-leg pants and oversized coats, and Tory Burch opened with a ribbed, collared sweater and safety pin-secured skirt. At Thom Browne, Ambush, and Sandy Liang, the uniform took on a more literal definition. Each of their collections included looks that evoked classroom nostalgia. And what’s the most quintessential ingredient of a uniform—at least, in academia? The pleated skirt.
An emblem of the most original “core”—prep dressing à la Cher Horowitz and Blair Waldorf — the pleated skirt is nothing short of iconic. It has reemerged on runways throughout decades, spotlighting in crowd-favorite collections like Comme des Garçons Spring 2006, Prada Spring 2012, and Celine Spring 2018. The garment is also no stranger to virality, thanks to Miu Miu’s ultra-low rise pleated mini and Chopova Lowena’s spliced skirt. Whether plaid or neutral, midi or mini, the pleated skirt has a certain staying power, a badge of being forever in. Miuccia Prada even once said, in a conversation with co-creative director Raf Simons, that her go-to uniform “is a white pleated cotton skirt and a blue sweater.” There you have it, a uniform recipe from Mrs. Prada herself.
Beyond the runways, fashion week goers also express a penchant for pleats. In Copenhagen, New York, and London, street style reveals that the pleated skirts of Spring 2023 collections have landed (yes, uniform dressing’s return has been cooking for some time). In September, Sacai, Issey Miyake, Altuzarra, and Dion Lee all presented their own pleated skirts. Of their iterations, no two were the same. Each design represented a different fashion genre: glamor, modernity, collegiate, and cool. Perhaps that’s why the pleated skirt keeps coming back. Despite being associated with an academic look, it can be reinterpreted to fit a variety of archetypes. There’s one for every uniform.
Below, shop the pleated skirts seen in our favorite street style looks. From scholastic plaid to classic black to Miuccia’s go-to white skirt, our edit of the best pleated skirts has them all.
The Plaid Midi
A classic style in the pleated skirt department, the plaid midi evokes academia core in all its glory. Pair it with a letterman jacket or wool cardigan to complete the trend, or wear it with a white tee for an easy look.
The Plaid Mini
If you’re going for the true school uniform look, this is your stop. Whether a micro mini or wrap-around style, this iteration of the pleated skirt is an iconic emblem of the ivy archetype.
The Black Midi
A timeless take on this wardrobe essential, the black midi pleated skirt is perhaps the most universal of them all. Whether worn with a sweater vest or tiny tank, ballet flats, or combat boots, it can be reinvented again and again.
The Black Mini
A year-round staple, the black mini’s beauty is that it can be styled with a t-shirt and sandals or a parka and knee-high boots. If you’re seeking a piece you’ll wear over and over again, look no further.
The Pleated Denim
What happens when you bring two uniform ingredients, denim, and a pleated skirt, together? A never-fail garment. Denim brings a casual feel to this iconic style. Whether low-rise or high-waisted, the denim pleated skirt is a perfect pick for the everyday look.
The Pleated Gray
Charcoal gives the pleated skirt a prep school feel. From Thom Browne’s beloved knee-length skirt to Altuzarra’s mini, the gray skirt epitomizes classroom dressing with ease.
The Pleated Khaki
Giving the pleated skirt an ivy twist, the khaki skirt mirrors 1970s college campus style (especially when paired with an oxford shirt or cable knit sweater). Master this look with a mini or midi version of the khaki skirt.
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The Pleated White
Finally, Miuccia Prada’s favorite. The white pleated skirt (she preferred cotton), proclaimed an essential by the master of uniform dressing, is one that will never go out of style.
