Most of my Christmas breaks have been spent in Swiss Engadin, a snowy paradise where raclette and Fondue Chinoise reign supreme après-ski. But after a whirlwind 2024, filled with high-lows and let-gos, my body and mind were crying out for rest. Inflammation triggered annoying colds and fevers, and I wasn’t exactly bursting with energy. So I decided to take a radical step: a fasting retreat. When I told my sister about my plan to swap my sybaritic winter escape for a 10-day strict program of holiday abstinence, she looked at me as if I’d lost my mind. “Great!”, she said, sounding utterly skeptical. “So, when can I swing by to pick up all the panettones and Marchesi chocolate boxes you got for Christmas?”
I learned about the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic years ago from an acquaintance who overcame a stubborn illness through their therapeutic fasting program. She praised the effective medical protocol and the high-level care they offered to patients. My curiosity was piqued. Although I’ve experienced a range of detox spas (I won’t name names), I often felt pressured to spend on the latest fancy treatments, extravagant diagnostics, or a surplus of dietary supplements marketed as orthomolecular medicine. I was looking for something no-nonsense, safe and serious. My only non-negotiable requirement was that it had to be set in beautiful natural surroundings, to ease the edges of discipline. So the day after Christmas, after a sort of last supper where I bid adieu to panettone slathered with fluffy mascarpone, I checked into the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic in Überlingen, Germany, a quaint village on the shores of Lake Constance.
My initial impression was rather puzzling—was this a hotel, a clinic, or a clinic disguised as a hotel? My room was minimal, bordering on the austere; it offered a pleasant view of the lake, but no bells and whistles. The overall look was sort of old-school sanatorium, slightly updated but with zero indulgence to luxury—definitely not a place for flaunting Birkins.
After undergoing a comprehensive medical examination, including various blood tests to determine my suitability for fasting, my regiment began: breakfast consisted of tea with a small pot of honey (just to perk you up from panettone nostalgia), followed by vegetable soup (or fruit juice, if you don’t have diabetic issues) at noon and in the evening. Caviar Kaspia it was not—during those first days, my mood was so sour that I kept questioning my decision to be there. What the hell was I thinking? Nevertheless, I marched on.
Each morning, a caring nurse would record my weight and blood pressure, inquire about my sleep, and provide patient, compassionate support to help me cope with my grumbling and mumblings. Dr. Arina Cadariu (who’s fluent in several languages) also supported me with her knowledge, tact, and sense of humor—without ever pressuring me to participate in the countless optional activities offered at BW, or prescribing the usual (and rather expensive) array of dietary supplements. I was actually encouraged to rest, so I spent my days catching up on sleep, reading extensively, taking long walks, and joining an art class, where I tried to bring my long-dormant watercolor skills out of hibernation (a work in progress). However, if you have enough energy or can’t shake off the FOMO malaise, the activity schedule at BW offers a vast range of options, from Yoga Nidra and all sorts of meditations and gymnastics, to nighttime swims in the heated outdoor pool and breathing promenades in the surrounding woods. The list is as varied as the à la carte menu at Zürich’s Krönenhalle—though perhaps not quite as mouthwatering.
Unlike most world-class detox spas, the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic is a family-owned business, which allows it to maintain its integrity and commitment to quality. Since Dr. Otto Buchinger founded it in Überlingen in 1953, four generations have worked there (another facility opened in Marbella, Spain, in the ’70s). Born in 1878, Dr. Buchinger was a handsome physician serving in the German navy; at 39, he was forced to stop his service due to severe joint rheumatism, which he cured through a radical 19-day water fast. It inspired him to develop a medical-supervised, science-backed fasting regime. “He was a pioneer, and a deeply spiritual man,” explained Dr. Françoise Wilhelmi De Toledo, who married into the family and now serves as the clinic’s scientific and research director. Looking fabulously younger at 72, and partial to Brunello Cucinelli cashmeres, Dr. de Toledo is a leading authority on the science behind fasting.
“There’s a lot of misconception about fasting,” she said. “Human beings are naturally programmed to fast during the night due to our circadian rhythm, a pattern that has been consistent throughout human evolution. Our bodies are built to handle fasting, even for extended periods. Just like hybrid cars that switch between fuel and electricity, our metabolism is designed to alternate between states of eating and not-eating.” As Dr. de Toledo, noted, prehistoric humans didn’t have the luxury of opening a fridge to make an omelette upon waking up—food wasn’t constantly available like it is now. “Today, we live in a culture surrounded by food at all hours—there’s a lot of food noise around us,” she continued. “Despite this, our bodies are perfectly capable of surviving on stored fat. Both nature and human beings operate in cycles—only computers don’t. Yet, we try to mimic computers, pushing our limits with less sleep and constant eating, neglecting the need to give our system some rest to activate rejuvenation and longevity.”
The fasting mechanism essentially works through a process called autophagy: “This is the ability of cells to self-digest and break down parts of their own structure—such as mitochondria or old, damaged, and mutated components—recycling some elements while eliminating others,” explained Dr. de Toledo. “This clears the way for new, healthy cells to develop. Caloric restriction significantly accelerates this process.” Fasting also triggers a metabolic switch, prompting the body to burn fat and glucose stored in adipose tissue. “It’s a form of clever self-cleaning that is completely safe when done correctly under medical supervision. This process not only helps in weight loss but also significantly reduces inflammation, eliminates excess cholesterol, slows down the nervous system and stress hormones, stabilizes blood pressure, and essentially rejuvenates and regenerates the entire body without the use of medication.”
Indeed, fasting can help improve and even cure serious health conditions. The BW protocol prescribes two days of reduced caloric intake at the beginning, six days of liquid-based fasting, and two final days of re-feeding, where your body slowly goes back to normal nutrition (although runs to the local delicatessen serving Bauernwurst in Aspik are strongly discouraged). At the clinic, I met fellow guests coming from all over the world, of all ages, gender and professions, often seeking solutions for complex health issues. “Human beings have incredible self-healing potential,” observed Dr. de Toledo. “People are always searching for the next miracle cure, the latest substance, or the newest injection. But the body itself has an extraordinary ability to heal. Fasting activates this self-medicating power—it’s a necessity for the body. Rather than waiting for a miracle from the outside, the real miracle comes from within.”
When I arrived at BW, I was struggling with a severe inflammation in my right leg, which made walking difficult and was hard to treat—after 10 days there (and some superb osteopathy treatment) the inflammation was completely gone. My joints were supple, eyes were clear, and my skin was also radiant with what they call ‘the Buchinger glow.’ When I got home, my usually skeptical sister took one look at me and remarked, “Do they hand out lightbulbs as fasting supplements at that clinic?”