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When selecting the perfect of-the-moment style for you (Jane Birkin bangs? A rounded bob? A mermaid-worthy mane?), a universal truth guides us all: damaged hair does no one a favor. Even the coolest cut and color lacks the impact of well-tended to lengths. But not to fear; how to repair damaged hair is easy once you identify what’s causing it in the first place. “Damaged hair has overall weakened strength, making it more porous, dry, and prone to split ends,” celebrity hairstylist and K18 Ambassador Cassondra Kaeding tells Vogue. “Each type of damage affects the hair’s integrity in different ways, requiring reparative products that go deeper and work from the inside out.”
Shab Caspara, New York City-based trichologist and founder of hair-care platform Leona, says that the common causes of hair damage include “mechanical damage (brushing, hair ties, extensions, and overall friction), chemical damage (overly bleached or processed hair), and thermal damage (flat and curling irons).” But a poor hair care regimen can also lead to weaker, frizzier, and more brittle strands over time. “The causes of hair fiber damage often have internal causes layered with the mechanical external causes,” explains New York City trichologist Bridgette Hill, citing prescription medicine intake, diet, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, age, hormones, products, and styling habits all as potential causes of damage.
Vogue’s Favorite Treatments for Damaged Hair
- The Styling Oil: Living proof No Frizz Vanishing Oil, $33
- The Dual Bristle Brush: Briogeo Boar Bristle Hair Brush, $42
- The Silk Bonnet: Slip Pure Silk Hair Wrap, $90
- The Leave-In Hair Mask: K18 Leave-In Molecular Hair Mask, $75
- The Nourishing Shampoo: Pattern Beauty Hydration Shampoo, $45
- The Heat Protection Mist: Oribe Invisible Defense Universal Protection Spray, $44
In This Story
- How to Tell Your Hair Is Damaged
- Type 1: Mechanical Damage
- Type 2: Chemical Damage
- Type 3: Heat Damage
- Meet The Experts
For her part, Hill takes issue with the word “health” as applied to hair. “Healthy hair is an oxymoron,” says Hill. “Hair is not a living cell or organ, and therefore has no true health quotient. Hair strands are literal protein threads, once they protrude out of the hair follicle, it becomes a fine fabric.” From this perspective, hair should be treated with care, handled as one would a delicate textile. Still, Hill concedes that hair in a well-maintained state should have a proper balance of hydration and elasticity, body, and movement, and should respond to the products designed for that hair fiber type and texture.
While you can’t heal a compromised hair fiber per se, you can take measures to prevent damage from exacerbating. “The goal is to first prevent further damage by adjusting the hairstyling habits that created the problem and implementing practices that promote hair health and nourishment to the hair fiber,” says Hill. A weekly deep treatment routine consisting of nourishing ingredients like fatty acids, silk proteins, conditioning oils, and humectants will help your cause, as will a check-in with your doctor to determine if any preexisting conditions could be impacting your hair health.
Below, take a deeper dive into the various common causes of damaged hair, how to mitigate the harm, and reparative steps to take to make your lengths as healthy as possible.
How to Tell Your Hair Is Damaged
According to Neera Nathan, MD, board-certified dermatologist and chief dermatological advisor at Vegamour, hair damage shows up in three main ways: breakage, hair loss, and dryness. Breakage is when there is damage to the hair shaft that causes it to weaken and snap off. Hair loss is self-explanatory and dryness is caused by damage to the outer layer of the cuticle and results in moisture loss and coarse, dull hair.
Hair damage can vary based on hair type or texture. Nathan says breakage, for example, is more obvious in curlier hair because broken strands may stick out more. While hair loss might be more obvious in those with thinner hair. Keeping that in mind as well as the causes of the damage will help you figure out to best treat it.
Type 1: Mechanical Damage
Mechanical damage is caused by hair wear-and-tear. Dragging combs and brushes through your lengths, tying styles with taut ties and ribbons, and even exposing hair to the elements all take their toll over time. All of these externals can lead to the breakage of individual strands, weathering (and even eradicating) protective cuticles and any potential for lustrousness and leading instead to a frazzled and frizzy mane.
While certain products exist to address damage caused by chemicals, the experts emphatically agree that no miracle product restores split ends or severely damaged hair. Extreme cases of damage call for a hair intervention in the form of a trim or, in some cases, a full-on chop. While many of us may be inclined to hang onto our hair length at all costs, it’s better to part ways with split ends before the breakage travels upward. After all, full and healthy hair ends (at any length) look far better than long, stringy, split strands.
To minimize the signs of mechanical damage, take a break from even the most basic of tools and embrace your natural texture with the help of products like Vernon François Nourishing Water or Ceremonia s Guava Beach Waves. Additionally, oils like Rōz’s Santa Lucia Styling Oil and Living Proof’s No Frizz Vanishing Oil can quell frizz and ramp up radiance as your hair starts to heal.
Mastering the art of hair brushing is key to minimize further stress on hair, and picking the best hair brush for the job is never a one-size-fits-all choice. “Wet hair is very fragile; handle with care,” says celebrity hairstylist Bridget Brager, who urges using a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush. She advises working from the ends of up and letting the hair air dry as much as possible before styling. This same kind of attentive care is necessary when you’re blow-drying. “Choose a boar bristle brush or one that has a mix of plastic and boar’s hair bristles,” says Hill, which is gentler on wet hair. “The idea is to avoid metal brushes, which can abrasive to hair fiber and scalps.” Try Tangle Teezer’s detangling brush on wet hair or Briogeo’s dual bristle brush on damp to dry hair.
Another way to extend your style? Protect it while you sleep with satin or silk pillowcases, scarves, hair ties, or bonnets. “Create a signature sleep style that allows oxygen to flow through the hair to the scalp, to prevent tangling and matting in the occipital point of the head while you sleep,” explains Hill, citing twists, pin curls, large braids, or the pineapple method as excellent sleep styles.
Type 2: Chemical Damage
Fans of hair color and retexturizing treatments, take note: chemical damage is an insidious sort. While occasional chemical processing—accompanied by a strategic and regimented hair care routine—is no cause for concern, treatments that are too frequent, too harsh, or not accompanied by proper tending can lead to progressive deterioration of hair cuticles.
Take dyeing your hair. Nathan explains that some hair dyes can cause irritation or allergy on the scalp, which can lead to hair loss. They can also disrupt the hair shaft, which can lead to dryness and breakage. “This is an unpopular opinion, but I often advise against hair dyes in most cases,” she says.
Other chemical treatments, such as perms, can also cause damage to your scalp and strands. Treatments like Brazilian blowouts can contain formaldehyde, which Nathan says can cause inflammation or an allergic reaction. Some studies have also linked the harsh ingredient to cancer.
TLDR: Bleaching may make hair appear plump, and retexturing may make daily styling easier, but chemicals do significant damage to protein structures over time.
Bond-building hair products—which work to repair amino acid bonds that make up the keratin in hair—have been all the rage in recent years. “You can improve the quality of hair with bond-building productsafter slight chemical damage, however, you cannot restore split ends or breakage in severely damaged hair,” says Caspara. Options like Olaplex No. 7 Bonding Oil and Living Proof s leave-in treatment are reliable favorites for protecting against future damage, and Nathan adds that peptide hair treatments, like the Vegamour’s hair mask can also strengthen the hair shaft while replenishing lost moisture. When in doubt, Kaeding reaches for K18’s leave-in hair mask. “It works on all hair types to reverse damage on a molecular level, by penetrating at the inner most layer of the hair follicle to create stronger and smoother results.”
Though bond-building products help hair, regular maintenance—a.k.a. trims every six to eight weeks—is key for prevention. “The only way to rectify severe thermal or chemical damage is to frequently trim off dead ends and allow for healthier hair to grow down without being affected by lingering damage,” says Caspara. Brager agrees that regular trims can reduce split ends from fraying and breaking off, allowing you (and your hair!) to avoid more dramatic damage.
Type 3: Heat Damage
Though heat tools may help our hair appear perfect, relying on them too frequently can do lasting harm. As with chemical processing, the repeated application of heat erodes the cuticle and weathers strands, leading to breakage over time. Too-high heat can even cause immediate damage, literally singing the very strands you re trying to style.
While there’s no way to undo heat damage entirely, an overhaul of your daily products can help (along with, as you may have guessed, regular trims). To start, the pros suggest you first take stock of your shampoo and conditioner to ensure both are free of harsh sulfates. “Never skimp on shampoo and conditioner, because it’s the thing you use the most,” says Brager, who agrees that sulfate-free products are the way to go as harsh chemicals can strip hair of its oils, leading to further frizz and dryness.
Meanwhile, those looking to promote hair growth might reach for Vegamour’s duo powered by vegan silk proteins, and those experiencing increased dryness should consider nourishing picks form Davines and Alterna to restore luster through plant-derived ingredients. Textured hair types should consider Pattern Beauty’s hydrating shampoo, which provides a gentle formula ideal for plumping curls.
“Thermal protectants work wonders protecting hair from thermal damage as they provide a coating that won’t allow hair to burn so easily from excessive heat,” Caspara explains, though the first rule of thumb is to air dry or power dry with your fingers to get most of the moisture out before reaching for hot tools. Try a misting of Oribe Invisible Defense Universal Protection Spray or Mizani Heat Screen Heat Protectant Spray for a instant thermal shield.
Even when using heat protectants, Brager recommends lowering the temperature of your hot tools altogether. Though Dyson’s beloved blow dryer is designed to protect hair from damage despite its fast drying times, try a lower heat setting than you normally would. You can never be too careful! Brager is a fan of T3’s Smooth ID tools that can personalize heat settings to your hair type. In an effort to maintain your style, it can be helpful to embrace your natural hair. “Style hair when it’s necessary, and let your natural texture flow whenever you can,” says Brager.
Meet The Experts
- Shab Caspara is a New York City–based trichologist and founder of hair-care platform Leona.
- Neera Nathan, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and chief dermatological advisor at Vegamour.
- Bridget Brager is a celebrity hairstylist and groomer whose clients include Allison Williams, Maude Apatow, and Kiernan Shipka.
- Cassondra Kaeding is an LA-based pro hair stylist and K18 ambassador. Her clients include Angelina Jolie, Lily-Rose Depp, Hailey Beiber, Ariana Grande, Kate Hudson, Ciara, and more.