Every year in Mexico’s Huasteca Potosina region, the Day of the Dead, or Xantolo, is celebrated from October 30 to November 2. The tradition, which dates back to pre-Hispanic times, is a “feast of the souls,” symbolizing the relationship between life and death, memory and the present, and the living and their ancestors. Here, Vogue explores how Xantolo is recognized in four municipalities in San Luis Potosí: San Vicente Tancuayalab, Matlapa, San Martín Chalchicuautla, and Tanquián de Escobedo.
What is Xantolo?
Xantolo is the Day of the Dead celebration of the Huasteca region, which encompasses the Mexican states of Hidalgo, San Luis Potosí, Veracruz, Tamaulipas, and Querétaro. In the celebration of Xantolo , the altar is an essential element that symbolizes the connection between the world of the living and the world of the dead, acting as a sacred portal to receive the spirits of loved ones who return during these days. For the Huasteca communities that celebrate Xantolo, the altar goes beyond being a simple arrangement; it is a representation of the duality between life and death and the journey that souls undertake to find peace. The structure and layout of the altar are full of symbolism and elements that serve a specific purpose, each intended to guide, honor, and welcome the deceased.
San Vicente Tancuayalab
Xantolo is experienced in a very special way in the municipality of San Vicente Tancuayalab, San Luis Potosí. Here, more than a tradition, it is part of the identity of the native communities; entire families design their costumes together.
The Danzas de los Huehues make up one part of the celebration, though it’s unclear how or when they started. Some suggest that they come from the Tének traditions, while others assure that they are Aztec inheritance after the conquest of the Huasteca. In San Vicente Tancuayalab, it is said that this tradition began many years ago, in a Xantolo celebration, when everyone went to the cemetery to leave offerings to their deceased. At that time, the custom was to express sadness for the loss of loved ones. However, on one occasion, a masked spirit appeared unexpectedly and began to dance among the tombs. The people, fearful, went to the shaman, and despite the initial distrust, more masked spirits appeared, transforming the sadness into joy. Since then, the tradition of the huehues spread throughout the Huastecas along routes such as the Montezuma River, with masked and disguised people dancing in the streets and cemeteries during the Xantolo festivities.
Matlapa
Matlapa is distinguished during the Xantolo festivity on the Day of the Dead by the decoration of ornamental arches, a tradition that symbolizes the connection between the living and their ancestors. These arches, made mainly of flowers, palm leaves, cane, and colored paper, are erected both at the entrances of homes and in cemeteries. They act as symbolic portals for the spirits to visit the earthly world and receive the offerings prepared in their honor.
The process of creating the arches in Matlapa is characterized by a strong sense of community and deep devotion, as entire families enthusiastically and respectfully participate in their assembly. IIn addition to paying homage to their loved ones, every detail in the arches—such as the cempasúchil flowers and the colorful papel picado—reflects the beliefs and cultural identity of the region.
San Martin Chalchicuautla
San Martín Chalchicuautla is one of the municipalities where the celebration of Xantolo is most faithfully preserved. This is evident in its dance troupes, which incorporate traditional elements into their costumes. For the community, dance is a form of both cultural and spiritual expression, bringing everyone together to honor their ancestors and reaffirm their indigenous identity.
During the Xantolo dance, the characters are dressed in costumes full of symbolism: the hand-painted wooden or papier-mâché masks represent both solemn faces and humorous figures, their costumes made with traditional fabrics and accessories from the region. Moreover, each person has a specific role within the dance. From the “comanche,” or leader, of the comparsa to the “viejos,” who often wear exaggerated clothing or carry walking sticks and shawls, each character performs movements that symbolize the return of the ancestors to earthly life and the cycle of life and death.
The music, played with traditional instruments such as the violin and the jarana huasteca, gives rhythm to the dances that are performed both in public spaces and in the homes of families, where they are meant to bless the atmosphere.
The Xantolo in San Martin is not limited to the comparsas, however: Each family also places altars in their homes in honor of their deceased. These altars are decorated with cempasúchil flowers, which guide the souls with their aroma, as well as candles, favorite foods of the deceased, and other personal objects. Families wait with respect and devotion for the souls to return and share the food and drink on the altar.
Xantolo in Tanquián de Escobedo
In Tanquián de Escobedo, the huehues are characters representing various trades or spirits of those who have passed away. These figures not only symbolize the return of the dead, but also reflect a connection with ancient spirits. The tradition in Tanquián is primarily expressed through clothing, as the huehues often wear wooden masks, each intricately carved by local artisans. Most of these masks are crafted from tree trunks and are hand-painted, with each one carrying its own unique story.
The huehues also wear traditional costumes, which can vary from old clothes or clothes made by local seamstresses. These characters make up the comparsas, of which several tend to come from each colony or neighborhood of the municipality.
In Tanquián, before starting the celebration, revelers go to the municipality’s cemetery on the 31st, where they ask permission to dance. Characters such as the devil and the cowboy make seven laps around the cemetery in order to obtain this permission, an act they perform with great respect. It’s believed that the people who dance lend their bodies so that the deceased or spirits from beyond can come and enjoy the festivity.
Afterwards, the huehues dance through the streets of the municipality, accompanied by live music played on violin, quinta, and jarana. Their presence is solemn and, at the same time, festive, an echo of past times that rings with each step.
In this report: Acknowledgements, Mauricio Ortega.