The atmosphere was electric with anticipation leading up to Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino on Sunday afternoon in Paris—undeniably the most coveted invite of the season. Instead of opting for the expected, Michele broke tradition by leaving behind the chic salons of the Salomon de Rothschild hôtel particulier, historically a frequent venue for Valentino shows, in favor of an unconventional location on the outskirts of Paris. He named the show Pavillon des Folies—The Crazy Pavillion.
The show took place at the Dojo de Paris arena, and we had anticipated a vast, impersonal space within the Judo Institute—a far cry from Valentino s typical epitome of chic. But with Alessandro Michele, nothing is ever predictable. After walking down a dark corridor lined with black velvet, the space suddenly opened into a haunting, magical environment, bathed in dim light and eerie music. Heaps of furniture, statues, and grand pianos were draped in white cloth, somehow evoking the supernatural atmosphere of Stranger Things or Miss Havisham’s neglected manor. Was it a metaphor for the past being shrouded to make way for new beginnings? Were ghosts of the past quietly drifting around?
Celebrities poured in, soaking up the intoxicating atmosphere. Harry Styles, casually dressed in corduroys and a red jumper, settled in between Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, wearing a très chic white Valentino redingote, and Maneskin’s Damiano David, sharp in an off-white suit concealing his multiple tattoos. Italian film director Paolo Sorrentino claimed a spot on a banquette beside Giancarlo Giammetti, the longtime partner of Valentino Garavani. Giammetti was spotted FaceTiming the show’s finale to Valentino himself, who was likely enjoying the spectacle from the comfort of his lavish Roman maison.
As the show began, all attention locked onto the catwalk—the audience s focus was palpable. The music, a remixed version of the madrigal Passacaglia della Vita, anonymously composed in 17th century Italy, wrapped us in a transporting message of joy, beauty, and hope. Then, Alessandro Michele s prodigious creativity cast its spell once more—a stream of stunning designs took Valentino Garavani’s exquisite legacy to a powerful new level of visionary whimsy.
Florence Welch, a longtime muse of Michele, seemed enraptured, perhaps already mentally selecting pieces for her wardrobe while robed in an opulent fringed, beaded caftan. Karen Elson, who recently married Lee Foster wearing a custom Valentino white ruched gown (Michele’s first wedding dress for the house), attended with her daughter, coed Scarlett White, looking as ethereal and radiant as her model mother It was notable to see which Michele friends and muses made the migration from Gucci front row to Valentino’s: Styles, Welch, Jared Leto (will there be a Valentino cat head in his future?). Elton John, in a rare public appearance, stood for a rousing ovation at the show’s finale, alongside Ginevra Elkann, Leto, Andrew Garfield, and Salma Hayek-Pinault. Together with the rest of the audience, they applauded Michele’s fabulous return to fashion.
