.jpg)
Attendance at—and outside—the fall shows suggests that fashion is back big time. In this apparent return to normalcy, street style offers a bit of a plot twist. The concurrence of trends on the runway and la rue, as documented for us by Phil Oh, indicates that the trickle-up/ trickle-down binary has become more of a two-way street, much as gender has become a more fluid concept.
The conversation around gender has, counterintuitively, brought tailoring to the fore; as Gucci’s Alessandro Michele put it, “Women are really interested in men’s suits.” On the street this translated into a new take on Annie Hall’s androgynous style—with or without a preppy tie. Taking up space can be a way to express power or to keep people at arm’s length. Designs that carve shapes into the ether by way of pointy shoulders or exaggerated and voluminous curves made the rounds this season. Their drama was countered by the cool orderliness of winter whites, which are perhaps the maximal expression of minimalism, the equivalent of a blank page.
At the same time that the metaverse is making segues into fashion, people on the street are doubling down on the materiality of clothing, defining their bodies with corsetry or putting a premium on tactility. Fun faux furs were everywhere. Nostalgia was similarly pervasive, leading to a sort of cosplay around stereotypical types and styles. Miss Havisham made an appearance via frilly white dresses; punks’ plaid was revisited, as was Western gear and, despite rising gas prices, motocross gear. Most in tune with the times, however, is wearing your heart on your sleeve.
Annie Hall 2.0
Borrowed-from-the-boys looks ruled the streets—think oversized blazers and trousers paired with boxy coats, chunky loafers, and even vests.
Magic Touch
People wear plush coats not just for warmth but also for their soft and reassuring tactility, something NFTs can’t deliver.
Revved Up
It was off to the races—or in this case, back-to-back fashion shows—for fall. Moto jackets paired with classic black trousers and sunglasses fueled the trend.
Shape-Shifters
Angular shoulders, amped-up dimensions, and asymmetrical hemlines took fashion into the future.
Twisted Prep
School is back in session! Neckties, button-ups, and pleated minis made for the best Fashion Week uniforms.
Winter Whites
Monochrome dressing in calming neutrals was big for fall, with winter whites blanketing the scene.
Throwing Curves
Corsets give structure to the innerwear-as-outerwear trend.
Fashion Rodeo
Western influences—fringe, studs, and cowboy boots and hats—bucked their way into street style.
Miss Havisham Makes a Comeback
News stories about the real-life identity of Charles Dickens’s gothic character broke during PFW. Funny how street stylers seemed to be channeling the jilted bride in romantic tulle and tatters.
Mad for Plaid
From classic Burberry tartans to Clueless styles and punk references, plaids were omnipresent.
