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Next week, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute will open the exhibition “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.” Within it, the Costume Institute’s most outstanding and significant pieces of fashion will be on display, pieces so important that they’re rarely awoken from their climate and light-controlled slumber in the archives for display.
Vogue’s Guide to Fashion’s Future Collectibles
- The Dries Van Noten Pick: Dries Van Noten printed wrap skirt, $1,175
- The Valentino Pick: Valentino appliquéd mini dress, $4,900
- The Prada Pick: Prada embroidered mini skirt, $4,600
- The Roberto Cavalli Pick: Roberto Cavalli silk maxi dress, $1,320
- The Brock Collection Pick: Brock Collection short vest, $670
- The Row Pick: The Row Margaux bag, $5,300
- The Wales Bonner Pick: Wales Bonner x Adidas Samba sneakers, $448
- The Chopova Lowena Pick: Chopova Lowena Green Wood tartan skirt, $1,210
- The Alaïa Pick: Alaïa stripe T-shirt bodysuit, $1,650
- The Louis Vuitton Pick: Louis Vuitton Neverfull MM bag, $2,030
- The Bode Pick: Bode Prairie Rose shirt, $1,250
- The Khaite Pick: Khaite Ruddy leather maxi skirt, $3,600
The concept of the exhibition has got us thinking about fashion and time—one day, all designer pieces will be vintage and a subset of this will be deemed “Sleeping Beauties” for a future generation of curators and museum-goers.
So what could these be, exactly? We take a stab at predicting the next crop of highly collectible fashion. The next Galliano for Diors and Ford for Guccis, below.
Dries Van Noten, by Dries Van Noten
Earlier this spring, Dries Van Noten announced he would exit his role at the label he founded in 1986 after 38 remarkable years—during which the designer marched to the beat of his own melodic drums and flouted “trends” of any kind. His approach gave him the highly-coveted title of “designers’-designer” and we predict his pieces will become even hotter commodities—especially as his final women’s collection (Spring 2025) hits stores next year. Per Vestiaire Collective, “U.S. searches and sales doubled in March following the announcement that he was stepping down.”
Anything Pierpaolo Piccioli Pink at Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli had an amazing, glorious run at Valentino. In his 25+ year run at the Italian house, the designer managed to do the impossible: change the “color” associated with the label founded by Mr. Valentino Garavani in 1959. The color, of course, being a distinct shade of red-red. For Valentino’s Fall 2022 collection, then creative director Piccioli released an all-pink, all-over collection in a refreshing shade of pink somewhere between Barbie and Shocking pink. The collection and its color were an instant success, he all but painted the town pink! Piccioli announced his departure from the house this past March and though his swan song collection was all black, we predict Pierpaolo Pink pieces to be highly coveted.
Per, The RealReal’s Rachel Glickberg, women’s fashion new initiatives lead: “When Pierpaolo Piccolo announced his retirement from Valentino after working for the brand for 25 years, we saw a 20% lift in ready-to-wear demand in March.”
Prada Skirts, Throughout the Years
With many, highly yearned-for Prada pieces, it’s hard to pinpoint a single category or item to rank as a future collectible. There is indeed an argument that most all Prada can take the title. But if we had to narrow it down we’d say it’s the Prada skirt. Each season—both Miuccia Prada’s solo collections as well as those co-designed with Raf Simmons—have featured a stand-out skirt. From last spring’s all-white paper cut out-esque mini skirts to the “torn” floral paper midi skirts to the revelatory fall 2007 collection of crinkled and tailored pieces.
Sex-on-a-Stick Roberto Cavalli
“Following news breaking about the unfortunate passing of Roberto Cavalli, we saw demand spike for the brand by 200%. Searches for pieces are up 43% month over month,” says Glickberg. Founded in 1975, the house of Roberto Cavalli was built on pillars of femininity, spiritedness, and leopard print. The appeal of Cavalli is that the look was unchanging—as trends came and went, Cavalli was still Cavalli. Vestiaire Collective adds that “US Sales doubled from March to April.”
Brock Collection’s Moody Florals
Brock Collection came onto the fashion scene with a bang—though it was an elegant bang with luxurious Italian jacquards and sophisticated silhouettes. Founded in 2014, it didn’t take long for its sculptural, floral dresses to turn up on the bodies of It girls around the globe. Despite its popularity, the label quietly shut down in 2022—and fashion girls mourned. Thankfully pieces are still available in the secondhand market and we’re predicting Brock Collection will soon be highly collectible pieces.
The Row’s, Not-So-Discreet Anymore, Margaux
Fashion’s been whispering: the next Birkin bag? Well, it’s not by Hermès but The Row, and she’s named the Margaux. With a “quiet luxury” look (though that term has now soured like a milk left out too long) the Margaux is constructed without logos and decorative hardware. Its celebrity fans include Jennifer Lawrence and Kendall Jenner, and the internet has already dubbed it the next Birkin. Sounds like a collectible to us!
Wales Bonner x Adidas’ Cool-Girl Sneakers
When a piece is hard to find right out the gate, there’s a good chance that it’s well on its way to cult status. Case in point, Grace Wales Bonners’ collabs with Adidas. The London-based menswear label teamed up with the sport mega-brand back in 2020 and ever since, they’ve produced a fruitful collection of instantly sold-out sneakers. Today, the styles can only really be found on resale sites and sneaker trading platforms like StockX. Talking fashion economics, it’s all about supply and demand.
Chopova Lowena’s Patchworked Pieces
The girls who know, know. Founded in 2017 by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, alumni of Central Saint Martins, this English-Bulgarian label has its followers in a chokehold. Like many other designers on this list, they know their vibe and they stick to it. What is it exactly? A grown-up and moody take on the pleated schoolgirl skirt crafted with deadstock fabrics and recycled materials.
Alaïa’s Sultry Bodysuits
So you already know that Alaïa is “like a totally important designer”. But beyond its laser-cut leather goods, we’re predicting the label’s bodysuits as highly-collectible pieces. Bonus points are that they’re highly wearable, too! With current creative director Pieter Mulier doing awe-inspiring things at the French label, interest in the brand continues to soar.
Louis Vuitton’s Classic Neverfull
“The Neverfull Louis Vuitton Bag is a unicorn style that has consistently held its value and demand, which we see more often is the case for more classic styles over trendier pieces,” says Glickberg. “Demand for Neverfull styles continues to be consistent, just from last we’ve seen a 42% lift in demand.” This might have something to do with the fact that a few years ago, rumors swirled that the bag was being discontinued altogether. Proof that scarcity fuels interest (and maintains a strong resell value, too!)
Bode’s Upcycled Shirts
Are they for men? Are they for women? Doesn’t matter a bit! Bode hits a note that appeals to all. Launched in 2016, the New York-based label from Emily Bode is beloved for its shirts cut out of upcycled textiles. Her styles are produced in small batches and the look is utterly cool—cowboy meets cabana meets the casbah.
Khaite’s Luxurious Leather
Though you could say it was a cashmere bra and cardi set that was the look seen round the world, it’s really Khaite’s leather pieces that possess longevity. Catherine Holstein’s most recent collection featured inky black leather cut into minidresses, midi skirts, and more. Her moto jackets, however, also stand out. As fashion progresses, we’re predicting Khaite’s cool-girl, oversized leather jackets to be highly coveted and sought-after.
