GLOBAL WOMEN 2024

On This South Dakota Reservation, Hair Is Memory

“Hair is very important to our people,” says Ashley Phelps-Garcia, a jingle dancer and enrolled member of the Oglala Lakota Nation. “We were taught, and teach our children, that the hair holds all of our memories. It’s your medicine, your power.”

The first person outside of Phelps-Garcia’s family whom she allowed to touch her hair was braider Reanna Ella Gourd (Oglala Sioux). “Everybody gets their hair braided for powwows,” Gourd says, referencing a single three-strand plait or French braids for women and two plaits for men. “The style is so normalized that it’s overlooked. But with our adornments, we want the best beadwork, the best quillwork, the best sidestep, the best dance—why not make the braids a bigger deal as well?”

Each design she creates is completely custom to the individual sitting in front of her and typically takes about two hours. “My hands are really sensitive,” Gourd says. “Before I start, I will run my hands through the hair just to look at its overall quality. But I’m not just looking at hair health. I can feel how their vibe is. I don t know if that’s a thing, but I can just feel them through my hands, just by touching the hair.”

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Sheep Mountain Table.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Video by Carlos Jaramillo

“To have somebody fix your hair is a very big honor,” says Ashley Phelps-Garcia. “It means that you re trusting them with your spirit.”

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Reanna braiding Ashley at home.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
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Ashley's sons, Joaquin and Wasose.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Video by Carlos Jaramillo
Ashley PhelpsGarcia and her daughters Miksuya  Nevaeh in South Dakota.

Ashley with daughters Miksuya, 9, and Nevaeh, 17. Ashley wears conch dentalium shell hair ties.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo. Styled by Marcus Correa, hair by Reanna Ella Gourd.
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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Ashley PhelpsGarcia stands with a brown and white horse in Pine Ridge Reservation South Dakota.
Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Video by Carlos Jaramillo

“I took to dancing jingle when I was three," says Phelps-Garcia, who grew up watching her mother dancing at powwows also. 

Nevaeh PhelpsGarcia in South Dakota.
Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo. Styled by Marcus Correa, hair by Reanna Ella Gourd.
Nevaeh PhelpsGarcia in South Dakota.
Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo

“She’s very connected to the land and nature,” Gourd says of Ashley s 17-year-old daughter Nevaeh, adding that the Black Hills and Badlands were the inspiration behind the braid designs.

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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo

Danielle Whirlwind Horse (Oglala Lakota), 26.

Danielle Whirlwind Horse in South Dakota.

Danielle Whirlwind Horse.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo. Styled by Marcus Correa, hair by Reanna Ella Gourd.

“Doing intricate braids are like playing a game of Sudoku in your head. You have to stay 10 steps ahead of yourself—know where that braid is going to go, if it s going to fit under another braid. You have to map it all out before you start doing the groundwork.”

Danielle Whirlwind Horse with her husband Ty and daughter in South Dakota.

Danielle with husband, Ty, and daughter Aubrey.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo. Styled by Marcus Correa, hair by Reanna Ella Gourd.
Video by Carlos Jaramillo
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Taylor Campbell, 25.

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo. Styled by Marcus Correa, hair by Reanna Ella Gourd.

Taylor’s braids were inspired by Italian fashion house Versace. “I wanted to have something inspired by the brand mixed with things created by hand, like her braid clips.”

Video by Carlos Jaramillo
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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Video by Carlos Jaramillo
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Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo

Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo
Hair Design:  Reanna Ella Gourd
Styling, Studio Portaits: Marcus Correa
Featuring: Ashley Phelps-Garcia, daughters Nevaeh Miksuya, Danielle Whirlwind Horse, Taylor Campbell
Special Thanks to The Phelps-Garcia Family, Tracy Nguyen, Tane Talalotu, Christian Allaire, and the Očhéthi Šakówiŋ