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Those that know, know: Learning about different curl types is key to decoding your own—and it can be a game-changer in more ways than one.
“Understanding your head of hair, its behavior, and what can be achieved with it can lead to a happy, healthy relationship with it,” says Vernon François, celebrity hairstylist and texture educator. “It helps inform how you approach it for the best outcomes all around.”
The most common way to determine curl types is the traditional system of types 2 to 4 with sub-categories of A to C. “Type 2 wavy hair features an ‘S’ pattern, type 3 features a tighter S’ and/or corkscrews, and type 4 features a tight coil or zig-zag pattern,” says Sharley Butcher, lead educator and textured hair specialist at Curlsmith. “Subcategories A, B, and C, refer to the diameter of the wave, curl, or coil. A is loose, B is medium, and C is tight.”
However, it must be acknowledged, that often individual hairs will have their own intricacies and even a few different textures on each strand. As a person with dyslexia, François adds that it’s vital that charts are as universal as possible; to that end, he created his own visual language for hair with simple visual icons back in 2015.
Though there’s room for improvement, the basic curl types system can be a helpful roadmap on your curl journey nonetheless.
What kind of curls do I have—and how do I take care of them?
As mentioned, it’s more common than not for a person to have multiple curl patterns. So while a general curl type chart can help get you started, sometimes it’s best to speak with a natural hair expert who can identify your unique texture(s) and help you create a hair-care plan.
Curlsmith also offers a curl quiz, which Butcher is a fan of. “[It] asks a few questions to determine your hair characteristics and provides personalized product recommendations,” the hairstylist explains.
But if you can’t make it to the salon right this second, or don’t have a trusted stylist on speed dial, we tapped a few experts to help you on your journey. Below, discover how to identify and care for each curl type.
Wavy, Type 2A to 2C
“Type 2 hair generally tends to have a smooth cuticle and is a gentle S-shape bend,” explains Jennie Roberts, celebrity hairstylist, textured hair educator, and Sheamoisture Brand Ambassador. Within the 2A to 2C spectrum, it comes down to “how defined the wave is,” says François. “‘A’ is elongated and ‘C’ more of an obvious ‘S’ shape,” he adds.
For optimal health, look to a sulfate-free cleanser and conditioner. SheaMoisture’s 100% Virgin Coconut Oil Daily Hydration Shampoo and Conditioner combo work well for this hair type. “Wavy hair needs washing more frequently than curly and coily hair as the natural oils produced at the scalp find it easier to travel down the hair strands,” says Butcher. Once a week, follow your regular wash routine with a deep conditioner—one like R+Co On a Cloud Mask is sure to quench wavy curls.
Since type 2s often require less hold, François recommends a volumizing mousse, like Redken Root Lifter Volumizing Spray Foam or Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, applied to freshly washed wet hair. “Let the waves air dry naturally while gently bouncing strands upwards with a flat palm of your hand,” he instructs. You can also opt for a curl cream, like Sienna Naturals Dream Curl Cream, or a light gel if mousse just isn’t your thing. Nourish the mid-lengths and ends of hair with a repair oil to keep hair “looking and feeling healthy and hydrated,” says François. He typically reaches for his eponymous brand’s Overnight Repair Treatment Oil, which features a rich blend of ingredients like jojoba, sweet almond, and argan oils.
“Avoid using heavy products that could weigh down your locks,” explains Butcher. “Using too many products, such as creams and oils, can cause your tresses to appear greasy and lose their bounce.” The hair expert also shares that over-brushing the hair while dry can make it more prone to frizz and even breakage. So it may be a good idea to stick to finger combing if you’re looking to refresh your waves between washes.
Curly, Type 3A to 3B
“Type 3 usually means curly hair, with 3A, 3B, and 3C describing how loose or intense the curls are,” says François. Within this shape, you will find different tensions of corkscrew curls, says Roberts, who suggests focusing on the cuticle texture to determine how much moisture or hold you need.
“Sulfate-free shampoos are a must because the more intense the curls, the drier they may tend to be, and the idea is to gently cleanse hair while keeping moisture where it’s needed—in the strands,” says Roberts. The Vernon François Curl Shampoo and Conditioner, both feature nourishing ingredients like shea butter, olive oil, and tea tree oil, making them great options to keep curls feeling refreshed and healthy. At least once a week, be sure to follow up with a decadent treatment like Briogeo’s Rice Amino + Avocado Hydrating Defining Mask, which uses avocado, castor oil, and chia to provide essential nourishment.
For light conditioning in between washes, look to a leave-in conditioner. Pattern’s Leave-In Conditioner has quickly become a cult-favorite amongst those with curly hair, thanks to its brilliant formula featuring jojoba oil, honey, and biotin. For non-sticky, soft, and flexible curls, a styling cream or lightweight gel will be your best choice. Oribe Curl Control Silkening Cream, CurlSmith Weightless Air Dry Cream, or Ceremonia Pequi Curl Activator are all great options. Once you’ve applied your products of choice, you can either let hair air dry, or opt to use a diffuser to speed up the process. However, you should “always use heat protection, like [Curlsmith’s] Miracle Shield before diffusing your locks,” Butcher suggests.
To steer clear of breakage, Butcher says to “use an appropriate detangling tool or finger detangle during the conditioning process.”
Coily, Type 4A to 4C
“Type 4 hair is super texturized, presenting as tight or looser zig zag or tight and looser coily/kinky shape,” explains Roberts. “The cuticle texture is very raised, hence the texture. It can be molded, sculpted, and texturized in so many ways.”
In terms of care, type 4 hair needs a lot of hydration, as it can become dry and break easily. Most wash days, you’ll want to opt for a conditioning wash, like As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner, which has ingredients like coconut and castor oils to avoid stripping the hair during the cleansing process. However, once a month, you’ll want to use a hydrating shampoo, like Vernon François Pure Fro Shampoo to avoid build-up. Then follow up with the line’s conditioner. Deep conditioners designed for curly hair are essential for this pattern—so be sure to apply one every time you wash. “Slippery moisturizing products are great for this texture as they will help with the detangling process, which can be the biggest challenge on wash day,” says Roberts. Carol’s Daughter Coco Crème Curl Quenching Deep Moisture Hair Mask is a great option.
“When styling tighter curls and coils to combat the natural shrinkage, use stronger hold stylers,” Butcher suggests. You can also layer, or cocktail products to keep the hair defined, yet soft. The only downside is that sometimes the wrong combo can leave visible residue behind. To bypass the dreaded white cast, opt for Eco Styler’s new Gel Boosters, which feature a blend of nourishing oils to repair and strengthen dry hair. Then apply a conditioning gel, like the brand’s Black Castor Flaxseed Oil Styling Gel on top.
And while shrinkage is perfectly normal and healthy (more on that in a second), if you want to elongate the hair, when you’re ready to start drying, hold sections taught before going in with a diffuser. Just make sure to apply a heat protectant beforehand.
If you decide to put your hair up, try to avoid super tight styles. “The tension can lead to breakage, soreness, and, in extreme cases, traction alopecia,” explains Butcher.
What is curl porosity and elasticity?
“There are many things that make your hair uniquely yours, including how quickly it absorbs and loses moisture, which is called porosity,” says François. A strong indicator of your porosity level is the health of your cuticles, which is the outermost layer of the hair strand. When the cuticle is healthy, it lays smooth, closed, and retains moisture. If the cuticle is compromised by damage due to factors such as heat, over-processing, and natural weather, it lifts away from the hair shaft.
Because curly hair is naturally dryer, it’s more vulnerable to this damage. “The way the cuticle presents is the texture you should be thinking of when choosing products for your hair,” says Roberts. “The smoother the texture, the less hydration and hold you need. The more raised the cuticle, giving a natural amount of healthy frizz, the more hydration and stronger-hold styling products will be needed.” A general rule of thumb? “The more porous and brittle the hair is, the more damaged it might be from coloring or heat styling,” says François.
“Porosity is hereditary or caused by damage,” adds Roberts. “Low porosity is when the hair appears waterproof, so more hydrating products are probably needed. If the hair is high porosity, it gets wet very easily and can be very limp with over-hydration.”
Another element of hair health to consider is elasticity, which is “if and how strands stretch when tension is applied,” says François. Elasticity helps prevent breakage when hair is being manipulated. “Elasticity is genetic but can be affected by chemical or bad hair practices,” says Roberts. “If there’s not enough strength and elasticity, hair might break or not hold the natural curl or coily pattern, [thus] moisture is needed. [On the other hand], if your hair is stringy and mushy when wet, then it needs protein to build the broken bonds back to strengthen the curl pattern.”
Both porosity and elasticity can affect shrinkage—which can also give you a lot of insight into the health of your hair. While many naturals prefer to find ways to elongate their curls, if your hair is the type to revert the moment any type of moisture is applied—as annoyed as you may be—consider it a blessing.
“Shrinkage is a sign of healthy hair,” explains Butcher. “When your curls are hydrated and moisturized, the elasticity causes the hair to spring back, which leads to the appearance of shrinkage. So while you might not get the length you want visually, your tresses are in good condition.”
However, if you prefer the look of your hair when it’s stretched out, Butcher suggests putting curly hair in a pineapple style—aka a loose high ponytail—at night, and using a satin pillowcase to avoid friction, which can lead to frizz.