Suffering under the unforgiving reign of skinny jeans made the pendulum swing to wide-leg pants even more of a joy. But while they’re pretty universal at this point, voluminous trousers can be a little tricky to style.
When she was 22 years old, Madison Brill, current design director of Chateau Marmont, was working at Gagosian in New York, minding the front desk in a pair of vintage 1970s green striped flare pants. In walked Patti Smith, who, according to Brill, said, “Oh my God, I love your pants.”
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To get a similar reaction—though maybe from a mere stranger rather than a rock legend—Brill suggests for a modern take involves adhering to a certain ratio. “I personally love a high fitted waist for a wide-leg pant, something to cinch your waist and bellows out to create a more long-leg flattering look. If I’m opting for a mid-rise pant, I like the width to be the same throughout.”
Simone Silverman, editor of Margot Magazine, described herself as “committed and dedicated to the silhouette.” The first time we met in person, she strolled—people who wear wide-leg trousers tend to stroll—into the hotel lobby with sneakers and a palpable sense of self. Her obsession began with the actor Katharine Hepburn. In the 1980s, she shopped at the Army and Navy surplus stores for vintage dark navy wool sailor trousers. And since then, it’s been her signature cut. She subscribes to a less mathematical approach to wide-leg dressing. “They must have a lanky, languid feel, no matter the material.”
When Taylor Hansen Hughes, a curator and wardrobe stylist, works with clients to find their dream wide-leg pants, she’s material agnostic. “Denim! Linen! Wool! All of the above. The tip is in the tailoring.” Her current favorite is a posh pair with an exaggerated leg by Saint Sintra, which she says are, “cut at the length to show off any delicious shoes. They’re a pant that shows off every other part of your outfit, but somehow still steals the show.” Spoken like a true expert.
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I follow Annie Samples for a dose of escapism. She lives in Copenhagen with her husband and four kids, and relevant to the wide-leg pant discussion, a very Scandi chic sense of style. Since biking is her family’s primary mode of transportation, I knew I could count on her for some practical advice on wide-leg pants. First on her checklist? A sturdy material that makes you feel confident about your midsection. As for styling, she loves wide-leg pants with an oversize band tee.
So pull the wide-leg pants you scored at the flea market or inherited from your mother-in-law out from the back of the drawer, give them a little Diane Keaton slouch, and step out in what might be the quickest shortcut to an elevated outfit.