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Welcome to the second iteration of Vogue’s global spa guide, an index of the 100 best spas in the world, built from the expertise of our global editors and trusted contributors. There is a lot to choose from in the world of wellness, and no matter how far you’re planning to travel—from a subway ride to a trans-Atlantic flight—we want to make sure it’s worth the journey. Whatever your path, let us be your guide.
Why go here?
The historic Mayflower Inn Spa, Auberge Resorts Collection is nestled on 58 bucolic acres at the foothills of the Berkshires in the heart of Litchfield County, Connecticut, a two hours’ drive north from New York City. The rambling, gambrel-roof inn is an icon of New England hospitality and the spa is of equal repute, beloved by hotel guests and local residents alike.
For the 20,000-square-foot wellness center, The Retreat focuses on marrying Eastern and Western modalities which translates to treatments that extend beyond the traditional body and facial work to also include reiki, acupuncture, and Tarot readings. The idea is that your wellness experience does not start and end within the shingled walls, but continues far beyond Litchfield County.
What’s the vibe?
A line of removed shoes appropriately encapsulates the clientele: Brunello Cucinelli shearling-lined boots and Blundstone clompers. About 30% of the spa’s guests are local members who come for the day, while the others are weekend guests. Upon arrival, spa managers greet you in cable-knit sweaters and with wide smiles; there is none of the hushed, darkened self-seriousness of some New York City spas—this feels more like a deluxe Montessori preschool. In the morning, 8 to 10 is kids’ time in the pool, and on a recent weekend, nine young hotel guests and their parents were gleefully splashing about in the high-ceilinged atrium.
The woodland setting is the jewel of this property, and the spa building is situated overlooking a rambling brook and blue-heron-populated pond. The establishment has worked hard to bring the spa outside: guided hikes, foraging classes, sound baths, summer fitness classes in the tented open-air pavilion, and their signature forest craniosacral therapy. (Not in the cards when I visited mid-snowstorm). But there are efforts to bring the outside in, also: Dried sheaves of wheat decorate the walls and the greenhouse-like biophilic pool, with over 400 plants including figs and ficus, feels a bit like swimming in the Jungle Cruise ride at Disneyland.
The Relaxation Room is the heart of the building—high-ceilinged and deploying as many shades of white and cream as a Nancy Meyers film. One 30-something couple lounging on nubby chaise longues, fit the profile of many guests I observed: a deluxe couple’s weekend, with duet massages in the warmly lit subterranean treatment rooms complete with stone soaking tub for the garden scrub or milk, honey, and lavender treatments.
The history?
Originally built as a school in 1894, The Mayflower has been a hotel since 1920 and long regarded as a treasure of Northwest Connecticut. The renovation of the spa by designer Nina Gotlieb was timed to the complete redesign of the hotel by decorator Celerie Kemble in 2020. The resulting vibe is classic New England country with a shot of whimsy (classic chintz layered with striped dhurrie rugs and paper flowers). At the spa, there is a more tranquil atmosphere, but style prevails: Lunch is served on woven rattan trays and delicate, paisley-decorated Adam Lippes x Oka china.
What should you try?
I tried the two most popular treatments, the hyper-customized facial and deep tissue integration massage as well as the exfoliating and mineral mud-wrap hammam experience. My massage was equal parts soothing and medicinal, aimed to address issues related to my runner’s knee. For my facial, my British esthetician was nurturing but firm like a Norland nanny—“You’re not rubbing the sunblock all the way to your ears!” she chided. She lathered me with one million layers of Biologique Recherche products; I fell asleep on the heated table.
The spa offers full- and half-day packages with a variety of treatments of your choosing or their prompting. (The popular full-body reboot includes a dry-brushing experience, lymphatic drainage, and a detoxing Multani clay wrap.) If you’re going to spend the day, there’s no need to sign up for a flurry of treatments; there are enough amenities to try, including the hammam and, my favorite, an outdoor barrel sauna. A lineup of Hunter wellies facilitated my short, snowy walk to the sauna, which was surrounded by Adirondack chairs with herringbone blankets and Grace Farms Rise tea waiting in a thermos. Lunch is a little gem Caesar and tomato salad with yuzu and burrata with bone broth dashi and coriander water available on tap. Like the rest of the spa, it is delicious but not too precious.
How environmentally friendly is it?
The Retreat is a plastic-free facility and relies on purified water to reduce single-use plastic. Products used in the spa and sold in the store are organic and locally sourced whenever possible.
What else do we need to know?
Their visiting master program is something to look out for when booking. I overlapped with the wonderful Helen Phelan pilates instructor and did a private session that left my glutes sore for days. They welcome everyone from yogis to facialists.
Who can go?
Hotel guests, plus those with an annual or day-tripper membership have full use of the spa, but anyone can book a treatment and have use of the locker room.
Booking details for Mayflower Inn Spa, Auberge Resorts Collection
Address: 118 Woodbury Rd, CT-47, Washington, CT 06793
Read more from Vogue’s Global Spa Guide.
