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Celebs who don’t age are a frequent topic around this office. Recently, a certain singer-producer-creative director was top of mind: “How has Pharrell Williams looked 25 years old since he was 25 years old?” one colleague asked. “He is literally the closest character to Dorian Gray that exists today.”
Although genes certainly play a part—and men’s skin is generally thicker than women’s and therefore less immediately prone to many of the visible signs of aging—one can also assume that the Williams must follow some pretty intensive self care practices to maintain his seemingly eternal freshness. Indeed, he is the founder of the skincare brand Humanrace, which is entirely centered around nourishing the skin in times of relaxation and “stress-testing” it regularly to increase its resilience.
What is contrast therapy?
For Williams, stress-testing the skin often involves contrast therapy—a fancy term for the practice of alternating between hot and cold applications. In general, contrast therapy can involve anything from a stint in an infrared sauna followed by a cold plunge to a warm oil face massage followed by an ice roller. Either way, it’s all about subjecting the body and skin to a back-to-back contrast of temperatures. It is said to stimulate blood flow, increase circulation, and promote healing.
The benefits of an ice bath
We all know that applying ice to an injury can help reduce pain and swelling, so it seems logical to assume that applying ice to our skin could have similar benefits. Proponents of using cold therapy on the face say it can help de-puff the eyes, tighten pores, promote a healthy glow, and reduce other visible signs of aging. Best of all, apply cold therapy to the skin is pretty accessible—all you really need is some ice.
When it comes to the overall benefits of ice baths and cold plunges, the thought process is the same. “A few studies give some scientific insight on the health benefits of ice bathing and exposure to cold air,” a recent review that looked at the health effects of voluntary exposure to cold water explains. “These studies suggest that regular cold exposure can be effective in treatment of chronic autoimmune inflammation, reduce hypercholesterolemia by brown adipose tissue activation, and have a positive effect on stress regulation.”
While a lot of pop-wellness content also claims that ice bathing and cold plunging can boost the immune system, increase sex drive, burn calories, ease stress, and treat depression, most of the evidence is anecdotal at best. Still, that doesn’t mean ice bathing isn’t worth a try—especially if there’s the chance of achieving age-defying results. At the Four Seasons in Milan, those who want to experience the star treatment for themselves can visit this spring’s Humanrace Reborn Pop-Up to try the “Total Experience”—so, naturally, I did just that.
The contrast therapy experience
When I arrived to meet with dermatologist Elena Jones, a longtime friend of Williams, I was full of questions about the treatment and contrast therapy in general. But once I experienced the actual treatment—which includes sauna and ice bath contrast therapy followed by a facial—I had a pretty clear answer.
The first part of the treatment is divided into two steps. First, you spend 10 minutes in an infrared biosauna with anti-inflammatory red LED light. After warming up the body, you next find out what “contrast” truly means courtesy of a three minute plunge in an ice-cold tub in which the water is set somewhere between a chilly 32 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Subjecting yourself to this kind of cold is not for the faint of heart. Before submerging, I donned special footwear designed to protect the nerve endings in my feet and to help redirect blood flow to the heart. (Blood flow in the body follows centrifugal direction from the heart to the arteries, then to the capillaries, and finally to the veins, and then back to the heart.) Stimulating this flow is meant to re-oxygenate and nourish the tissues, including those in the heart muscle, while also providing a detoxifying effect.
To best manage the boost in circulation, breathing is essential. You’ve heard of Wim Hof, right? I was instructed to center my attention on my body to calm my shocked parasympathetic nervous system by deeply inhaling and exhaling as I immersed myself in the frigid water. The goal? To stay submerged for a staggering three minutes before heading off for the facial.
What happens to the body in an ice bath?
Here’s the thing. Getting into a tub of ice water may seem difficult, but it’s not. The real challenge is actually staying in for the entire three minutes. The thermal shock produced by plunging the body into freezing water definitely triggers the parasympathetic “fight or flight” response, which often includes shortness of breath and an increased heart rate. I can certainly attest to both of these things.
However, this is where the magic lies—the temperature change invigorates the body and the mind, providing immediate and lasting benefits. As the body adapts, heart rate and blood pressure decrease, while the body enters a parasympathetic state of rest and digestion.
Of course, you don’t need to plunge yourself into icy depths to reap the same benefits—a cold shower can have similar effects. Either way, you’re forcing a state of relaxation through temperature shock. The impact is especially felt when you get out of the water; your hands and feet may feel numb, as blood flow has been temporarily restricted. Whil blood flow gradually returns to circulate throughout the body after 40 minutes, the relief results in a boost of energy and a brighter mood.
Contrast therapy for the skin
My rejuvenating facial developed by Jones was next—and I had the great fortune of trying it directly from her hands. It included cleansing and an application of the brand’s 7D Hyaluronic Acid, followed by an application of Williams’s favorite Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator, a triple-action exfoliator that combines 8% glycolic acid to eliminate dead skin cells and rejuvenates the skin.
At this point, Jones demonstrated one more example of stress-testing the skin with contrast therapy by passing two of Humanrace’s ice rollers over my face—she said this stops the exfoliation process and deflates the face in one pass. The entire treatment ended with 30 minutes of an oxygenating mask while my body was massaged with a bakuchiol- and peptide-infused body cream.
Did I look as eternally youthful as Williams after all that? I can’t say for sure, but I certainly felt rejuvenated, refreshed, and uplifted. Or, as the ageless artist might say: Happy.