When I visited Munich on the first weekend of December, the region was blanketed in 40 centimeters of snow and had come to a complete standstill. Its frosted trees and streets were fragrant with gingerbread and Glühwein thanks to the Christmas markets, and the experience was a little like stepping into one of the traditional snow globes that line the stalls at Marienplatz. With the airport closed (planes were literally frozen to the tarmac) and trains suspended, I was stuck in this fantastical winter wonderland—and being snowed into the recently-opened Rosewood hotel in Munich was simply the icing on the stollen.
The hotel is located right in the center of the old town, and housed in the former Bavarian State Bank headquarters and the historic Palais Neuhaus-Preysing building. The baroque entrance makes you feel like you’re stepping into a grand aristocratic residence, with a colossal marble staircase, frescoes on the ceiling, and gold signs reading “tresor” (which translates as “safe” in English, in case you forgot you’re in an old bank). But once you pass the main hall, you can wave goodbye to the statues as things get a little more Art Deco—with a subtle contemporary twist—thanks to architects Hilmer Sattler and the London-based interiors firm Tara Bernerd Partners.
The interior underwent a complete reconstruction over a number of years, with only the grand entrance and one historic ballroom remaining intact; the latter retaining the original mouldings and traditional gold detailing on the walls. However, it doesn’t take an expert design eye to notice that—despite the extensive rebuild—the team was keen to reference Bavaria’s rich architectural heritage, from the color palette of deep moss greens, ochres, and navy blues to the striking marbles and wood-paneled walls that weave their way through the property. The art, meanwhile, has been sourced primarily from local makers, and references everything from football to local fairytales; if you look closely, you’ll also spot the lion from the Bavarian coat of arms prowling all over the place. Scattered across surfaces you’ll find coffee table books that tell rich and varied stories of Munich—usually left open, inviting you to actually read them while tucked away in one of the many cozy nooks.
This homely feel extends to the hotel’s 73 bedrooms and 59 suites, which, regardless of size, are filled with luxuries to help you on your journey to a better night’s sleep—whether giant pillows, slippers left next to your bed during turndown, calming Votary beauty products and more books for bedtime reading. For those seeking something a little more grandiose, there are five “houses,” each named after Bavaria’s royal family—which is fitting given these are more like grand apartments than hotel suites—featuring full-spec kitchens and spacious dining areas. The Prinzessin Ferdinande House even has a glass bridge suspended between the two historic buildings, which guests can walk through to reach a private lounge area. Yet here, it’s the smallest details that shine: I found myself Googling everything from the Victoria + Albert Tombolo bath rack (who knew a tray across the tub could be so stylish?) to the SV Casa leather tray on the bedside table, to the Italesse tumblers at breakfast.
This attention to both the macro and micro speaks to the broad cross-section of visitors Munich attracts. In October to December each year, of course, the city swells with visitors thanks to Oktoberfest and the traditional Christmas markets, but there’s a constant stream of business travelers that fly in every Monday to Friday throughout the year. The most surprising cohort I spotted during my stay, however? The restaurant and bar are already proving popular with local residents, rather than being filled with corporate types dining on expenses—a clear sign of how significant the launch of this new luxury hotel is for the city at large.
Skim through one of the menus, though, and you’ll quickly understand why half of Munich is already flocking through its doors. The cuisine on offer is, by and large, a modern take on Bavarian classic dishes, and the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus all come with dedicated sections for Alpine and Bavarian classics. Instead of the Stein-like proportions you might find in a local beer hall, the dishes at Brasserie Cuvilliés are more delicate, as Chef Caspar Bork puts contemporary twists on traditional Alpine flavors, with a strong emphasis on seasonal traditions. Start the day in true Munich fashion with a pretzel on the side of your eggs, and then make sure to try the salt-crust trout which comes for two to share, the melt-in-your-mouth spinach dumplings, and the Dampfnudel (a sweet dumpling served with blueberry sauce and caramelized walnuts)—all washed down with one of the local beers on the menu, naturally. After dinner, head to the jazz club Bar Montez for live music and to admire the colossal stained-glass installation by Mayer’sche Hofkunstanstalt, a Cubist-inspired depiction of the jazz scene in Munich in the ’20s.
And if you do find yourself able to tear yourself away from one of those stone fireplaces on a chilly winter’s evening, and out to brave the bottlenecks at the city’s Christmas markets, you can rest safe in the knowledge that you’ll always have the Asaya Spa to return to. Located deep in the bowels of the building, an indoor pool, saunas, herbal steam room, and an impressive treatment menu (which includes Dr Barbara Sturm facials) offer unparalleled relaxation—a state of nirvana I achieved after a “Lost Remedies” journey, which incorporated holistic techniques with herbs, local flowers, and aromas sourced from the Alps. You’ll soon find yourself wishing you were snowed in too.