Anthony Vaccarello presented his debut collection for Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week today. The sultry affair, complete with 80s references and Vaccarello s band of supermodels, was a slight pivot from Hedi Slimane s world of rock chicks and vintage inspirations, but true to the roots of the house—it was inspired by a 1982 YSL original. Catch up on all the details of Vaccarello s debut here and check Vogue Runway later today for Sarah Mower s review of Saint Laurent s Spring 2017 collection.
- Saint Laurent staged its show in the arcade of a former abbey turned military office that will become the maison s new headquarters in the coming years. Suspended in the center of a courtyard was an illuminated YSL logo, held aloft from a crane.
- Jane Birkin and her daughters, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Lou Doillon, sat in the front row beside Yves Saint Laurent s partner Pierre Bergé.
- The show opened with a pouf-sleeved leather minidress cinched at the waist with a coordinating leather belt.
- A bevy of Vaccarello s model muses returned to the runway for the designer, including Anja Rubik, Freja Beha Erichsen, Karmen Pedaru, and Luca Gajdus.
- In a surprise move, the collection did not contain a a single slit skirt. Instead, Vaccarello showed dresses and skirts in micro-mini lengths—no slits needed to show off models s upper thighs.
- Many of the looks were accented with oversize crystal or metal earrings that reached down to models s shoulders.
- A large portion of the show s closing looks featured sheer tops—worn sans bras bien sur! The look that will really get people talking, however, was Binx Walton s mono-boob dress.
- Forget stiletto spikes. This season, Saint Laurent proposed pumps with the brand s own logo as the heel.
- A sole male model walked in the show today—perhaps a tip for what s to come at Vaccarello s upcoming Saint Laurent men s show?
- Vaccarello emerged after the finale to take a bow in a black sweater and slim jeans.
Saint Laurent | Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear: