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You know that Shayne Oliver has entered the room when “Señorita” switches off and the sputtering beats of Wench, the designer’s electronic music project with Arca, come on. The cool downtown crowd filling the room is another clue: lanky creatures in Killing Joke tees and white Margiela Tabi boots, scuffed from wear and unzipped in the back. There are black bike shorts, dirty Jansport packs topped with prayer beads, and a Black Flag cap that says America on it. There is no clear common thread between them, yet the tableau is undeniably Oliver’s, whose singular creative vision catapulted him and his Hood By Air collective to global cult status.
“I always want to make sure my castings [include] personalities that best describe my mood—attitude is very important to me,” Oliver says. “The message I wanted to convey is ‘swaggin out my look,’ which is always our message.” It is also what he has been tasked to do at Helmut Lang tonight, as the first designer to be tapped by editor-in-residence Isabella Burley to inject new life into the historic brand. Judging by Vogue’s exclusive video preview, there will be more of the strong sexual undercurrent that defines Oliver’s work: latex and rubber heels, leather harnesses, and oiled bodies. That said, for the video shoot, filmed in photographer Steven Sebring’s 360-degree dome, Oliver included a sneak peek at a few Helmut items that felt like easy wins (a sleek logo zip sweater, for one).
Back on set, Oliver changes into a floor-sweeping white robe and slips a harness on top. Inside the geodesic space, the crew writhes smoothly to music from Wench while Oliver lies on the steps, the dancers behind him bathed in tangerine light. “We’ve done many, many crazy conceptual shoots in the past, but the 360-camera moment was new for us,” Oliver adds. “Models styled in a dome filled with laser lights and cameras everywhere,” he laughs. “It was fab.”
Shayne inHood By Air Hiatus Collection oversize sweatshirt, for information: hoodbyair.com
Arta inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver English heavy leather hooded trenchcoat, $2,450, for information: helmutlang.com
Arselejda inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver wool twill half bra coat, $895, and nameplate belt, $370, for information: helmutlang.com
David inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver leather bra bag, $655, for information: helmutlang.com
Dylan inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver slim suit trousers, $360, and leather bra purse, $635, for information: helmutlang.com
Guy inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver leather bra bag, $655, for information: helmutlang.com
Hirakish inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver collection sticker raw-edge muscle tee, $115, leather belt harness, $460, and dry-wash belt jean, $310, for information: helmutlang.com
Inga inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver heavy plongé bolero, $575, and elastic strap trousers, $425, for information: helmutlang.com; Intimissimi Ilaria bandeau bra, $34, for information: intimissimi.com
Lea inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver neon nylon bra, $210, for information: helmutlang.com
Maren inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver metallic cow double-breasted coat, $1,895, and metallic cow elastic strap trousers, $1,295, for information: helmutlang.com
Mario inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver neon quilted throw-on jacket, $620, and night-wash belt jean, $310, for information: helmutlang.com
Valerie inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver fine wool twill corset dress, $645, and leather belt harness, $425, for information: helmutlang.com
Veronika inHelmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver heavy plongé pull-up shirtdress, $1,275, and tour fleece boxed hoodie, $295, for information: helmutlang.com
Select Hood By Air archive seen on Arta, David, Dylan, Guy, Inga, and Lea, for information: hoodbyair.com
Director Cass Bird Fashion Editor Jorden Bickham 360 Footage Courtesy of DSR Media Lab DP Tyler Kohlhoff Lighting Ithai Schori Hair Tamara McNaughton Makeup Romy Soleimani Set Designer Nicholas Des Jardins Editor Jojo King, Modern Post Color Tim Masick, Company 3 Casting Walter Pearce Filmed at DSR Media Lab Music “2 Nunti” by Wench