Spicules Skin Care Has Been Hailed as “Liquid Microneedling”—But Does It Really Work?

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It may sound twisted, but there’s something undeniably satisfying when skin-care products cause a little discomfort; the tingling sensation of an at-home chemical peel or the prickling of a dermaroller makes it feel like it’s actually working—and in real time. The latest interest in noninvasive at-home treatments involves spicule skin-care formulas, which are often referred to as “liquid microneedling” without the need for puncturing skin. Always a step ahead, spicule skin care unsurprisingly originated in Korean serums before making its way Stateside.

“Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from marine sponges, plant extracts, or synthetic bioactive materials,” explains Anetta Reszko, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York. According to cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu, they’re often hollow, and thus can be filled with active ingredients. Though you can’t see them in a product, you can certainly feel them once a formula containing spicules has been applied. Imagine rubbing a small amount of fiberglass into the skin, sharp and stinging—we never said it would feel pleasant!—with the level of irritation spiking as the concentration of spicules in a formula increases.

Vogue’s Favorite Spicule Skin-Care Products:

In This Story

Experts say spicule skin care is growing in popularity because it bridges the gap between med spa treatments and an at-home routine with formulas that feel clinical and deliver fast results but don’t require an appointment or consultation. And the purported benefits that spicules offer the skin sound a lot like those offered by traditional microneedling: “When applied to the skin, spicules gently puncture the outermost layer [the stratum corneum], which encourages cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and can help with the absorption of active ingredients,” explains Eunice Park, MD, a dual-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York. (While both spicule skin care and microneedling can help active ingredients absorb more deeply into the skin, they’re two different treatments—which we’ll get into more specifically later on.)

According to Dr. Reszko, research suggests that less than 1% of active ingredients in traditional skin-care products are able to reach the deeper layers of the skin—where those ingredients need to be to help improve skin quality and function. But by bypassing the stratum corneum, spicules promote deeper penetration of active ingredients—ultimately promoting more efficacy from your skin-care routine. “Some formulations include bioactive coatings on spicules, allowing for slow-release delivery of active ingredients as they dissolve,” adds Dr. Reszko. The longer it takes for active skin-care ingredients to absorb into your skin, the more benefit they can provide.

Ahead, a handful of spicule skin-care products that could be the key to your most hardworking regimen yet.

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VT Cosmetics

Cica Reedle Shot 100

$31 $26 (16% off)

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: According to Dr. Park and Fu, this is the serum that’s made spicules so popular Stateside. A big part of its appeal is that it’s available in multiple strength levels. Unless you have very sensitive skin, Reedle Shot 100 is a nice starting point, providing a microneedle intensity of 100 out of 1,000, so you’ll get that signature prickly sensation, but it won’t feel overwhelmingly spicy. In addition to promoting cellular turnover, the spicules help deeper penetration of the active ingredients: Cica, or centella asiatica, works in tandem with propolis extract to help soothe and heal skin, while sodium hyaluronate and glycerin provide deep hydration. We like pairing this serum with other ultrahydrating formulas to give skin a plump, cushy glow.
  • Key Ingredients: Centella asiatica extract, propolis extract, sodium hyaluronate
  • Best For: Uneven texture and tone, dryness, and those who want to customize their treatment
  • Size: 1.69 fl. oz.
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Medicube

One Day Exosome Shot 2000

$20

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: The spicules in this serum are coated with probiotic-derived exosomes, one of the hottest ingredients in regenerative aesthetics. While the spicules and a blend of alpha-, beta-, and polyhydroxy acids work to exfoliate dead skin on the surface, the exosomes infuse amino acids, peptides, and other nutrients into the fresh skin beneath to help it function at its best. With regular use, you’ll see clearer skin and smaller-looking pores.
  • Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, lactobacillus-derived exosomes, betaine salicylate
  • Best For: Blackheads and enlarged pores
  • Size: 1.01 fl. oz.
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Cosyuree

Collagen Spicule Serum

$30

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: You may be initially deterred by the prickly sensation of this serum’s spicules, but you’ll quickly get over it once you see the product’s results. Thanks to the combo of spicules, collagen, and hyaluronic acid, skin instantly feels firmer and looks plumped up. After a few weeks, you’ll notice the efforts of the formula’s vitamin C and onion bulb extract—faded dark spots and a brighter, more even complexion.
  • Key Ingredients: Hydrolyzed collagen, multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, onion bulb extract
  • Best For: Uneven texture and tone
  • Size: 1.69 fl. oz.

Best With PDRN: Cosnori PDRN-Shot 675

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Cosnori

PDRN-Shot 675

$23

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: This serum combines buzzy spicules with equally trendy PDRN, a DNA fragment derived from salmon sperm that boasts numerous benefits, including collagen synthesis, hyperpigmentation reduction, and amplified hydration. You get the most benefit from PDRN when it’s injected or applied to skin after microneedling; “liquid microneedling” courtesy of spicules is a clever way to max out the ingredient’s benefits at home. You also get glow-boosting niacinamide and moisturizing panthenol in this lightweight, fast-absorbing serum, which leaves skin soft, not sticky.
  • Key Ingredients: Salmon-derived PDRN, niacinamide, panthenol
  • Best For: Dull, dry, uneven skin
  • Size: 1.69 fl. oz.

Mediheal

Spicule Pore Tightening System

$22

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: If you’re not ready to commit to using spicules in your daily routine, try this weekly two-step treatment—it consists of a spicule-packed ampoule and a gel sheet mask. Simply slick on the ampoule, then layer the serum-soaked sheet mask on top. After about 30 minutes, the sheet mask will fade from white to clear, a sign that the active ingredients—including collagen, seaweed extract, and vitamin B5—have fully absorbed. Once you remove the mask, you’ll see tighter-looking pores and a glassy skinlike glow.
  • Key Ingredients: Multiple forms of collagen, seaweed extract, pantothenic acid
  • Best For: Enlarged pores
  • Size: Two dual-phase treatments
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Medi Lift

Needle Lift Eye and Lip Serum

$60

AMAZON

  • Why We Love It: This is a rare spicule serum formulated specifically for use around the eyes and lips, delicate areas that can benefit from extra support. There are two types of micro-fine spicules in the product—one is made with 24-karat gold and coated with powerhouse plant extracts (like vitamin C–rich kakadu plum), the other features platinum and is coated with hyaluronic acid. Beyond the spicules’ plumping and brightening benefits, they also help the carrier serum penetrate more deeply—which is infused with lab-made growth factor peptides and plant-derived stem cells to help firm, tighten, and lift.
  • Key Ingredients: Peptides, multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, kakadu plum
  • Best For: Fine lines, wrinkles, and skin laxity around the eyes and lips
  • Size: 0.6 fl. oz.

Everything You Need to Know

What is the difference between spicules and microneedling?

While both spicule skin care and microneedling help active ingredients absorb more deeply into the skin, they’re quite different treatments. “Microneedling is a mechanical procedure that creates controlled punctures into the skin, inducing immediate wound-healing responses, such as increased collagen production,” says Dr. Reszko.

Professional microneedling treatments are able to penetrate the skin quite deeply (depending on the device, up to four millimeters), creating an intense inflammatory response that makes it an ideal targeted treatment for treating issues like wrinkles and scars, says Dr. Park.

Spicules are far less precise and much more superficial than microneedling, making this “liquid microneedling” treatment more of an exfoliator. While they can get deeper than most ingredients (Fu notes that spicules used in skin-care products are typically around .15 millimeters long), they won’t stay embedded in your skin forever. Plant-based spicules tend to dissolve within hours of application, while marine-derived spicules will stick around a little longer—naturally breaking down or shedding over several days, says Dr. Reszko.

Does spicules skin care actually work?

Currently, there’s limited data available demonstrating clear-cut efficacy of spicule skin care, says Fu. “A lot of the available products don’t come with any clinical testing, and its benefits are dependent on the actives that the spicules are paired with,” she explains. However, the science that is out there is promising. A study of crow’s-feet treated with two creams (one with just actives, and the other containing actives plus spicules) showed that spicules provided a statistically significant improvement in skin density. Another showed that spicules enhanced skin permeability and transdermal delivery of topical ingredients. “They address a fundamental limitation of topical skin care—the skin’s natural barrier,” says Dr. Reszko. “By creating micro-channels in the epidermis, spicules enhance the bioavailability and penetration of active compounds such as peptides, retinoids, and antioxidants.”

Are spicule products suitable for sensitive skin?

Spicules break through the skin barrier, causing some irritation in even the most resilient complexions. Sensitive skin is characterized by a compromised stratum corneum, increasing the risk of irritation—so those with very sensitive skin may want to sit this trend out. “For sensitive skin types, any change to the skin barrier is typically not recommended,” says Fu. However, if you’ve got sensitive skin and an adventurous spirit, you can still give it a go, albeit with caution: Dr. Park recommends patch-testing first and selecting formulas designed for sensitive skin, while Dr. Reszko suggests seeking out spicule skin-care products that also contain ingredients that have anti-inflammatory properties, like niacinamide or cica.

The frequency at which you use spicule skin-care products is also crucial—and not well addressed on most product packaging, warns Fu. “Based on the available data and our experience using spicule products so far, we don’t believe this is a product that needs to be used every day or needs to be used in high concentrations,” she explains, adding that for best results, you’ll want to follow your spicule application with a solid moisturizing regimen.

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