The accessories market is booming. During the pandemic, retailers reported steep rises in bag sales and growing interest in investment bags from heritage brands—an accessory trend influenced by the rise of the secondary and resale markets. (Back in February, Vogue reported that “what is now a $28 billion secondhand-apparel market will more than double to an astonishing $64 billion by 2024.”)
What does that mean for the spring 2022 accessory trends on the runway? Consistency is key. Heritage brands continue to produce their signature styles, from Chanel’s 2.55 to Prada’s newly slimmed-down version of the Galleria tote and Fendi’s Baguette. As far as footwear, walkable lug-soled boots continue to dominate, appearing at Alexander McQueen, Coach, and Eckhaus Latta.
But when you know you can sell a top-handle and a treaded boot, why not also send out a neon-hued platform, just for fun? The stable nature of the accessories market is making room on the runways for designers to get weird. Few did it with the irreverence of Jonathan Anderson, whose Loewe heels were accented with reproductions of soap bars, candles, and even cracked eggs. Though experiments with 3-D printing at Balenciaga and Givenchy, new fabrications like Mylo leather and compostable boots at Stella McCartney and Maison Margiela did keep things interesting elsewhere. Below, the 11 new ideas that caught our eye this season.
Eat This Bag, Plant This Shoe
%2520(1).jpeg)
Stella McCartney has long led the way in sustainability—this season she remade her Frayme bag in Mylo mushroom leather. Gabriela Hearst used lactae hevea, a rubber derived from the milk of the hevea tree, with cork and EVA in her new sandals, while both Loewe and Maison Margiela created biodegradable shoes.
Snuggle Up to Your Tote
Going back to the office? You’ll need a bag large enough for your laptop, water bottle, headphones, notebook, bag lunch, wallet, keys, lip balm…the list goes on. Rather than a stuffy and structured folio or leather tote, designers are putting forth big cozy bags that will make packing up and heading back to work a lot less routine.
Decorate Your Dome
Trend forecasters placed their bets on a return of the Roaring Twenties this season, but while the flapper dresses didn’t materialize on the catwalk, Paco Rabanne, Louis Vuitton, and Maison Margiela did deliver glittering headpieces worthy of Josephine Baker.
Get a Lift
The higher the shoe, the closer to Donatella. Versace’s popular fall platforms gave way to even steeper ones for spring—though they might not be the tallest shoes of the season. Marni, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Dries Van Noten, and Acne Studios all have quirky contenders, while platform king Rick Owens revamped his Kiss boot as a sandal. A word of wisdom: Don’t try these on the subway.
Hold on to Your Bag-celet
The need for easy-to-wear, hands-free bags helped the cross-body become the defining style of the 2010s. If Y/Project, Loewe, and Fendi have their say, the bracelet bag—bag-celet—will be the look of the 2020s.
Bug Out With Groovy Sunglasses
We have a working theory here at Vogue HQ that Balenciaga’s bug-eye sunglasses are like a micro current facial. Put them on and—presto!—instant cheekbones. The same goes for Prada’s new shape and Acne Studios ’60s-inspired sunnies.
Lace-Up Your Sandals
Easy, walkable sandals and flats from Chloé, Christian Dior, Valentino, and more will be the best way to transition back to real shoes this springtime. Worn with everything from minis to paillette dresses, the styles have a true work-to-play appeal, too.
Embrace the Unexpected
Cheese hats, egg shoes, and cherry bags are just some of the humorous accessories that walked the runway this season. Why be boring in a basic black brogue or meh mid-heeled pump?
Add These to Your Bucket List
Structured bucket bags from Tory Burch, Michael Kors, and Alaïa are good for running around and great for transporting all your gear. Kors filled his with a dozen red roses—maybe you will fill yours with a touch of ice and a fresh bottle of Champagne. Patou’s straw version certainly makes the case for a boozy brunch in the park.
Squish as You Step
Kanye West and his friends Demna Gvasalia and Matthew Williams have been pushing a blobby, squishy shoe shape at their respective brands for seasons. Now Ottolinger and Balmain are giving the look a try.
Channel Your Inner “Carrie”
And just like that…we’re all wearing belts on bare skin. Made infamous by Carrie Bradshaw in a season-four episode of Sex and the City, the belt-on-midriff look is what @everyoutfitonsatc calls “the Sistine Chapel of wacky Carrie looks.”