Stem Cell Skincare Is the Next Frontier of Anti-Aging

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Photo: Sarah Lauren Holt / Gallery Stock

Right now, the skin-care industry is brimming with exciting, often mysterious, active ingredients—think exosomes, spicules, and PDRN. Among them, stem cells are the latest source of skin renewal to hit the shelves. Stem cell skincare products set out to harness the innate power of stem cells, which are naturally found in skin, to slow signs of aging. That’s understandable. After all, "stem cells are your skin’s built-in repair system," says Asmi Berry, DO, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles. Located in the deepest layer of skin, stem cells are tasked with creating fresh, healthy skin cells when those that are old or damaged are ready for retirement. When you re young, this process is easy and seamless. But "as we age, stem cell activity slows down, which shows up as thinner skin, slower healing, dullness, and fine lines," Dr. Berry explains.

Vogue’s Favorite Stem Cell Skincare:

Best Overall
SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
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Best for Wrinkles
Neocutis Bio Serum Firm
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Best for Dry Skin
Angela Caglia Cell Forté Serum With BIOMSC
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One major point of differentiation from other active ingredients is that stem cell skin-care products aren t necessarily filled with live stem cells. Rather, they have "collections of exosomes and/or growth factors that are supposed to signal to your own skin cells to morph into healthier cells, which then produce more collagen and act like younger cells,” says Arash Akhavan, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. For the unfamiliar, exosomes are sacs that are filled with growth factors and cytokines; these proteins signal your body to start the repair and generation process, he says.

In other words, these formulations provide the typical components of your skin’s stem cells in order to replicate their effects—rather than delivering stem cells themselves. But they still can translate to a meaningful difference in signs of aging, such as wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. With that in mind, scroll ahead for the products they recommend.

In This Story:


Best Overall: SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum

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SkinMedica

TNS Advanced+ Serum

  • Why We Love It: SkinMedica’s flagship serum has years of research behind it, with many dermatologists backing up its ability to “improve firmness, texture, and overall skin health over time,” explains Dr. Berry, who recommends it to patients concerned with skin texture, either from collagen loss or acne scarring. “It uses a blend of stem cell-derived growth factors and peptides that boost collagen and elastin.” The dual-chambered bottle houses two formulas: One with those peptides and growth factors to support healthy skin function, and the other with marine extracts to support collagen and elastin production; this set-up keeps both fresh and therefore at peak potency.
  • Key Ingredients: Human fibroblast conditioned media, microalgae extract, peptides
  • Best For: All skin types, but especially those with mature skin or uneven skin texture
  • Size: 30 ml

Best for Wrinkles: Neocutis Bio Serum Firm

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Neocutis

Bio Serum Firm

  • Why We Love It: Neocutis was founded upon decades of wound-healing research, which ultimately led to the creation of this firming serum. “It contains a high concentration of stem cell-derived growth factors and proprietary peptides, and helps support skin repair, elasticity, and resilience, especially in mature skin,” says Dr. Berry, who finds that it’s especially helpful for those with fine lines, dehydrated skin, or both. The combination means that it’s able to work quickly, delivering smoother, brighter, and suppler skin in less than a week, according to the brand’s testing.
  • Key Ingredients: Human growth factors (cutaneous lysate), peptides, hyaluronic acid, arginine, glycerin
  • Best For: Mature or dry skin
  • Size: 30 ml

Best for Dry Skin: Angela Caglia Cell Forté Serum With BIOMSC

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Angela Caglia

Cell Forté Serum With BIOMSC

  • Why We Love It: Infused with ingredients derived from stem cells found in human fat, this serum has become a favorite among Dr. Akhavan’s patients. “Unlike plant stem cells, the growth factors and proteins derived from human stem cells can potentially be more effective at signaling for tissue regeneration in our skin,” he says. “These ingredients are paired with snow mushroom extract, probiotics, and hyaluronic acid for effective anti-inflammatory effects and hydration.” The lineup of growth factors, exosomes, cytokines, and peptides means that it delivers the bulk of components found in stem cells.
  • Key Ingredients: Human adipose-derived stem cell conditioned media, peptides, allantoin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol
  • Best For: Mature or dry skin
  • Size: 30 ml

Best Plant-Based: Kate Somerville Kateceuticals Supercell Rejuvenation Serum

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Kate Somerville

Kateceuticals Supercell Rejuvenation Serum

  • Why We Love It: Rather than human tissue-derived ingredients, this formula relies on plant-generated growth factors that mimic the effects of human proteins—and together, they can target and improve wrinkles, and lax or sagging skin. (The ingredient at work is the Nicotiana benthamiana plan.) Peptides and squalane help supplement their effects, leaving skin soft and supple at the outset, and the unique applicator—which features a large metal roller—helps depuff skin as you apply it.
  • Key Ingredients: Squalane, peptides, bisabolol, ginger root extract
  • Best For: Those seeking a vegan option
  • Size: 30 ml

Best for Dark Spots: Eighth Day Regenerative Serum

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Eighth Day

Regenerative Serum

  • Why We Love It: Rather than rely on the standard nutrients found in stem cells, this dermatologist-formulated serum opts for a proprietary combination of growth factors and 24 bio-identical peptides (meaning they’ll be more readily accepted by skin); together, they work to smooth expression lines and brighten dark spots. They re supported by time-tested activities like hyaluronic acid (to plump and hydrate), glycolic acid (to smooth and brighten), and niacinamide (which dials down inflammation).
  • Key Ingredients: Growth factors, peptides, amino acids
  • Best For: Mature or sensitive skin
  • Size: 15 ml

Best for Sensitive Skin: Symbiome The Answer Reparative Serum

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Symbiome

The Answer Reparative Serum

  • Why We Love It: An eye-popping 50% of The Answer Reparative Serum consists of stem cell conditioned media, such as peptides, growth factors, exosomes, and cytokines—which together can help address dark spots, wrinkles, and skin laxity. These components are derived from human fat stem cells and help promote collagen production and speed wound healing; they also offer innate anti-inflammatory benefits, making this serum ideal for those with sensitivities. Similarly impressive: It relies almost entirely on this media, featuring just five other ingredients to round out the benefits.
  • Editor’s Experience: “I sought out this serum to help my skin recover from a recent laser treatment, and boy am I obsessed. What initally drew me to it is the impressively minimal ingredient list—packed to the brim with many of anti-aging’s superstar ingredients. Despite its potency, it’s shockingly gentle; the texture is almost cooling—sinking into skin with ease.” —Kiana Murden, beauty shopping editor
  • Key Ingredients: Adult adipose stem cell conditioned media, lactobacillus ferment, geranium leaf oil
  • Best For: Mature, dry, and sensitive skin
  • Size: 30 ml

Everything You Need To Know

Do stem cells work in skincare?

Yes, but there’s a catch. Compared to other ingredients—namely, retinoids—stem cell-derived ingredients don’t have the same level of research and evidence to back up their efficacy. Still, “the use of exosomes and growth factors from stem cells in skincare is a very promising avenue for anti-aging benefits without some of the side effects associated with retinoids, such as irritation,” says Dr. Akhavan, who adds that we need more conclusive, independent studies to confirm their benefits.

For that reason, Dr. Berry sees them more as supportive ingredients. “They can improve skin quality, resilience, and recovery, especially in aging or post-procedure skin, but they work best alongside proven actives rather than replacing them,” she says.

The Benefits of Stem Cells

First, you can’t just put stem cells into a serum and assume that they’ll fix your old, worn-out skin cells. “That’s not how skin or skincare works,” says Dr. Berry. With that caveat in mind: These products contain “growth factors or conditioned media, which contains the repair signals stem cells release,” she says. As a result, they can support skin healing and a more youthful look to skin. Meanwhile, “peptides are smaller, targeted messengers designed to trigger specific responses, like collagen production,” she says.

Some stem cell skincare products use plant-derived stem cell extracts instead. While these don’t act like human stem cells, they can still provide antioxidant benefits to repair and protect skin. Whatever the source, “all of these work by signaling your existing skin cells to repair, regenerate, and function more youthfully,” she explains.

How to Incorporate Stem Cells Into Your Routine

First, look for a serum formulation, says Dr. Akhavan, and use it after cleansing. “Exosomes and their associated growth factors are typically large and delicate, and would have the most likelihood of penetrating if they are applied as the first layer on clean and dry skin,” he says.

While you can generally use stem cell skincare products morning and night, Dr. Berry recommends sticking with nighttime if you only have the option for one or the other. That’s because overnight is when skin goes into repair mode—so their effects may be maximized. She also advises using them after procedures like lasers or microneedling. “Think of them as recovery and optimization tools, rather than primary treatment ingredients,” she says.

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