The Magical Thinking of Grace Coddington

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“Senior Moment,” with Gemma Ward.Photographed by Tim Walker Tim, Vogue, August 2004

As a model, Grace Coddington could morph from bohemian waif to Helmut Newton hottie in the bat of an eye. She brought that talent to her work as a stylist and editor for Vogue, too, and her range is astounding. There are tales of suburbia, explorations of the American West, fairy tales, and reimaginings of cinematic classics. But no matter the season and whatever the plot, Coddington herself remains a fixed axis: sure in herself and her style, and with her fiery mane and all-black uniform a beloved beacon of excellence. Today, on her birthday, we celebrate some of her most lasting images.

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“Graceful Elegance,” with Karen Elson as Grace Coddington. Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, August 2008
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“Graceful Elegance,” with Karen Elson as Grace Coddington. Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, August 2008
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“Graceful Elegance,” with Karen Elson as Grace Coddington. Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, August 2008

Once Upon a Time

“Alice in Wonderland,” published in the December 2003 issue of Vogue, was the first of a series of fairy-tale portfolios Coddington created with Annie Leibovitz. Perfectly cast cameo appearances (Stephen Jones as the Mad Hatter, Lady Gaga as Hansel and Gretel’s evil witch) added to the enchantments of this series.

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“The Wizard of Oz,” on set with Grace Coddington as a stand-in for the Wicked Witch.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, December 2005
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“The Wizard of Oz,” with Keira Knightley as Dorothy, Alba Clemente as Auntie Em, and Francesco Clemente as Uncle Henry.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, December 2005
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“Alice in Wonderland,” with Natalia Vodianova as Alice and Olivier Theyskens as Lewis Carroll.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, December 2003

Suburbia

What lies behind the perfect facade of a white picket fence is a subject that was explored by American writers including John Cheever, John Updike, and Richard Yates—and a red-headed woman from Wales.

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“American Daydream,” with Joan Smalls, Trai Byers, and Finn Wittrock.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, September 2017
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“The Perfect Wife,” with Amber Valletta.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, June 2006
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“Little Pink Houses,” with Karlie Kloss and Gray and Dashel Neville.Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, November 2012

Lights, Camera, Action!

The texture of road movies and elements of Hitchcockian suspense worked their way into Coddington’s work, often when she was on set with Peter Lindbergh. Here, the camera took on the role of a recording, voyeuristic eye, heightening the sense of drama.

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Grace Coddington and Viki Rutsch on set for “Window Dressing.”Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, April 2013
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“Window Dressing,” with Carolyn Murphy and Tobey Maguire.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, April 2013
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“Lost Highway,” with Garrett Hedlund and Kati Nescher.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, October 2012
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“A Winter’s Pale,” with Karen Elson.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, October 2011
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“Brief Encounter,” with Natalia Vodianova and Sean Combs.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, February 2010

Blue Sky Thinking

Coddington has always been drawn to wild open spaces under great expanses of sky, and she often hit the road with Arthur Elgort to explore the American West.

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Grace Coddington on the set of “Oh, Pioneers!” Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, June 2001
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“Stardust,” with Edie Campbell.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, June 2013
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“A Grand Affair,” with Natalia Vodianova.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, September 2005
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“Oh, Pioneers!,” with Matthew Avedon and Stella Tennant.Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, August 2001
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“The Misfits,” with Isabeli Fontana and Álvaro Jacomossi.Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, February 2004
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“The Talented Miss Mulligan,” with Carey Mulligan.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, October 2010

Studio Work

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“Peerless,” with Natalia Vodianova.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, January 2008 
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“Peerless,” with Natalia Vodianova.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, January 2008 
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“Peerless,” with Natalia Vodianova.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, January 2008 
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“Fire Starters,” with Florence Welch.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, August 2014
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“Alexander the Great,” with Stella Tennant.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, May 2011
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“Frieze Frame,” with Raquel Zimmermann.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 2004

Star Power

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“Like a Duchess,” with Madonna.Photographed by Tim Walker, Vogue, August 2005
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“Master Class,” with Nicole Kidman.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, September 2003

The In Crowd

Vogue’s never had a shoot involving a cast of thousands, but Coddington is able to wrangle a crowd, styling glamorous groups in order to best tell multi-layered and themed stories.

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“Light Brigade,” with Leila Nda, Aya Jones, Imaan Hammam, Malaika Firth, Tami Williams, and Kai Newman.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, March 2015
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“Beautiful Dreamer,” with Liya Kebede, Anouck Lepère, Natalia Vodianova, Elise Crombez, and Eugenia Volodina.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, July 2003
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“Eternal Optimism,” with Frida Gustavsson, Caroline Trentini, and Karlie Kloss.Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, March 2012
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“Chaos Theory,” with with Faretta, Imaan Hammam, Diandra Forrest, Sara Grace Wallerstedt, Binx Walton, and Cara Taylor.Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, July 2017
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“Couture Club,” with with Nicolas Ghesquière and Raquel Zimmermann.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, September 2004

Green Things

This Brit knows her way around a garden—wild or tame.

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“Hothouse Flowers,” with Carolyn Murphy.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, January 2013
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“The Custom of the Country,” with Jeffrey Eugenides, Jack Huston, and Natalia Vodianova.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, September 2012
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“Garden of Delights,” with Caroline Trentini.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 2006

Present History

With an irreverent eye for the past Coddington brought perukes, panniers, and Marie Antoinette among other famous historical figures into the future.

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“Checking Out,” with Kate Moss.Photographed by Tim Walker, Vogue, April 2012
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“Asia Major,” with Du Juan, Tao Okamoto, Hyun Yi Lee, Hyoni Kang, Liu Wen, Bonnie Chen, So Young Kang, and Lily Zhi.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 2010
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“French Twists,” with Karen Elson, Gérard Depardieu, Gisele Bündchen, Gemma Ward, and Fabrice Hybert.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, May 2004
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 “Dressing Like the Dickens,” with Cosmo MacDonald, Edie Campbell, Alex Rossiter, Tom Gaskin, and Lucan and Ethan Gillespie.Photographed by Tim Walker, Vogue, December 2013
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“Cinderella Story,” with Edie Campbell.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, September 2013
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On the set of “Teen Queen”: Grace Coddington and Kirsten Dunst.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, September 2006