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Colorado is certainly not lacking in picturesque ski destinations, but among the profusion of options available for wintry escapes this season—from the star-studded Aspen and Park City to the charmingly funky Telluride, Breckenridge, and Steamboat Springs—the now 61-year-old Vail holds a special appeal. Founded in the 1960s by a World War II veteran who modeled his resort after Swiss and Bavarian ski resorts he encountered during his tours abroad, Vail is a quiet charmer.
It’s very much a fabricated “ski town”—you just turn off the highway and you’re there—with a slightly Disney-like vision of the Alpine aesthetic. But its enviable ease of access, abundance of skiable terrain (over 5,000 acres, 193 trails, and its seven legendary powder-rich back bowls), environmentally conscious advances (the resort says it is on track to achieve zero net emissions by 2030), comfortable accommodations, decadent dining experiences, and typically low-key clientele ensure that the very good snow is just one reason among many to plan your next vacation. Aspen may have all of the high fashion brands and celebrity visitors, but you know what? They can keep them. Not everybody wants to pack cocktail attire for a ski trip.
Below, our guide to getting the best out of your visit.
Where to Stay
Vail is divided into two main hubs: Lionshead Village and Vail Village, with each serviced by different gondolas and connected by a free bus system. (This is really more for convenience, as one can reach the other location on non-ski-booted foot in about 10 to 15 minutes.) The Arrabelle at Vail Square is steps from the Eagle Bahn Gondola in Lionshead Village, and sits within an ornate-looking building modeled after classic Swiss architecture that arches elegantly over an open-air ice skating rink in its central plaza. Attentive in-house staff and keen attention to detail (like complimentary strudel and an afternoon hot chocolate bar in the lobby, as well as a neighboring gourmet grab-and-go cafe called The Belle with afternoon whiskey and donut pairings), as well as a VIP rental experience at their exquisite new on-site rental lounge The Pinnacle, makes it an ever-popular choice.
Alternately, staying in Vail Village puts you in the heart of the action. Stroll along the enormous ice sculptures on display as part of the 17th annual Vail Winterfest en route to The Sonnenalp, a beloved lodging that fully embraces the town’s Bavarian inspiration, with rustic carved wood-paneled interiors, and dirndl and loden-tweed-clad waitstaff in their buzzy piano bar during the après ski hours. Meanwhile, at the nearby Four Seasons Vail, the hotel’s world-famous comforts include an award-winning spa, heated open-air pool, and plenty of in-house dining options, as well as the kind of service you’d expect from the five-star brand.
Hit the Slopes (Or Not)
Vail Mountain is Colorado’s largest resort, with more than 5,300 acres of developed ski and snowboard terrain, including the seven Back Bowls, which offer everything from groomed trails (China Bowl), to tree skiing (Tea Cup Glade in Tea Bowl), to the full backcountry experience (Inner and Outer Mongolia Bowls). If you really want to go for it, there are Sun Up and Sun Down bowls, neither of which are for the faint of heart (or hamstring). No bowls for you? No problem. The front side of the mountain offers a range of runs for every level of shredder.
But downhill isn’t the only game in town. Come winter, Vail’s Golf Club becomes the Vail Nordic Center, with 17 kilometers of groomed track and 10 kilometers of scenic trails for everything from cross-country skiing to snowshoeing and fat biking, with daily lessons and specialty clinics as well as rental equipment on-site.
Want to take a day off skiing or snowboarding, but still take advantage of the setting? The Nature Discovery Center offers 90-minute guided snowshoe tours departing from the NDC yurt at the top of the Eagle Bahn Gondola (No.19) from 10:30 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. to 3 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday. Follow along and get some LISS cardio in as your guide shows you the mountain from a slightly slower perspective, winding in and out of the evergreens and aspens. (Extra points if you spot a true Vail local: an ermine or a fox.)
Feeling less sporty, more scene-y? Take in the views of the Gore and Sawatch ranges with a drink in hand at Vail’s famous Ice Bar—made of actual snow—which has returned to Eagle’s Nest this season for an Instagram-ready en plein air après set up replete with signature cocktails, music, and food, and four cozy Snow Bungalows. (The first Ice Bar, founded by early Vail investor Bill Whiteford, who has been called “the Baron Munchausen of Vail,” only operated for a few weeks in 1963 and advertised crepe Suzette, pizza, pastrami, corn beef, pea soup, milkshakes, and “other goodies.’ It was shut down in 1964 for lack of a liquor license; happily, both this and the menu have changed.)
Where to Eat
In Vail Village, the buzzy Mountain Standard aces the whole indulgent gastropub thing with New American classics like crudo, flatbreads, and hearty grilled proteins. For a culinary experience in lockstep with the surroundings, Alpenrose offers fondue, rosti, and schnitzel in a setting that harkens nearly back to the town’s founding (the restaurant opened its doors in 1974). Almresi is another Swiss-focused rustic charmer from the same group, with all the excellent raclette and schweinshaxe that implies. Stop by Pepi’s Bar at the Gasthof Gramshammer for an Austrian beer under the framed gaze of past famed patrons. And for those tired of wood paneling and even the mere suggestion of schnapps, Vail Village’s El Segundo has excellent Mexican food, as well as a branch of Matsuhisha for sushi and single malts. Seeking something lower-key? Bart Yeti’s in Lionshead is a local-beloved institution, with the sports bar decor and pub grub to match.
Where to Shop
Recent years have seen many American ski towns overrun by big-name European fashion brands— Vail, conversely, has made a concerted effort to protect and encourage local businesses and Western chains. One is the excellent clothier Axel’s, which offers all the trappings for a stylish mountain stay, from outerwear, cashmere knits, and denim, to ornate belt buckles, cocktail dresses, and cowboy boots. Gorsuch features homewares alongside the best from fashion brands like Bogner and Brunello Cucinelli, and a cute in-store cafe for quick takeaway lunches and coffee breaks. There’s Luca Bruno, for Italian-forward fashions for on the slopes and off, and Kemo Sabe, for traditional Western accessories with a twist: like a signature Stetson and Mountain Gems Hand Crafted hatband bedecked with snake vertebrae and semi-precious stones. Just because your ski break is over doesn’t mean you can’t take a piece of it home with you.