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Welcome to the second iteration of Vogue’s global spa guide, an index of the 100 best spas in the world, built from the expertise of our global editors and trusted contributors. There is a lot to choose from in the world of wellness, and no matter how far you’re planning to travel—from a subway ride to a trans-Atlantic flight—we want to make sure it’s worth the journey. Whatever your path, let us be your guide.
Why go here?
Borgo Egnazia is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary hotels in all of Italy, with 184 suites and villas laid out across a sprawling estate, all built from scratch just 16 years ago to resemble a traditional Puglian village that magically features every modern mod con you could think of. There’s a head-spinning array of things to do: cooking and fitness classes, a private beach club, four restaurants, festivals in the village square. The list goes on (and on, and on). And the scale of the place is so enormous that even when it’s at full capacity, you won’t feel bothered by other guests or even the kids—they have their own clubhouse and pool to splash around in, after all. Need a further endorsement? Just ask Madonna or the Beckhams, both of whom are repeat guests here.
Of course, this wouldn’t be a true luxury resort without an eye-popping spa to match, and the Vair Spa is a sight to behold. Where the rest of Borgo Egnazia is all gleaming tufo limestone (allegedly chipped away at by the architect to lend it an authentically old-world feel) and sun-dappled white-washed walls overflowing with bougainvillea, the spa takes its cues from the ancient civilizations who once occupied the region. Tucked away down the candlelit corridors of a crumbling arcade, the extensive list of treatments offers everything from classic massages and facials (primarily using local ingredients, whether olive and lavender oils or herbs from Vair’s own garden) to multi-day pathways that promise to help restore your emotional and physical balance. It’s an oasis within an oasis, located within the subterranean bowels of the resort’s central building.
What’s the vibe?
You’ll need to keep your wits about you after heading down the stone stairwell and into the spa proper: It’s all underground, and the various areas of the spa are connected by a labyrinthine rabbit warren of corridors that are easy to get lost in. (Happily, the friendly staff—who all seemed to be wearing draped linen gowns, lending them the appearance of a Roman empress’s ladies-in-waiting—will be happy to guide you in the right direction.) During the cooler months, you’ll find fires crackling away in the alcoves, while in the summer months, the cool water that cascades down the thick stone walls offers a welcome respite from the baking southern Italian sun.
The treatments, which take place in cabins also lit by candlelight (honestly, I’d love to know Vair Spa’s annual candle budget) place a particular emphasis on tradition, simplicity, and the use of natural or organic ingredients. Many take their cues directly from the surrounding countryside, such as a heated stone and hot towel massage inspired by the Masciara, an ancient Puglian folk figure believed to possess magical healing powers, or the Lòuma chiaine ritual (which translates from the Puglian dialect to “full moon”) that involves caper oil and almond butter being applied in increasing intensity to the face, head, and feet in order to stimulate your memory and concentration. The cumulative effect is so transportive that it will have you stepping back into the sunlight blinking, wondering if it was all some kind of mirage.
The history?
Despite appearances, Borgo Egnazia was established just 15 years ago by husband and wife Aldo and Camilla Melpignano. The former is part of a Puglian hospitality dynasty (Aldo’s parents established and still operate the more traditional Masseria San Domenico just over the road, which brought the first wave of high-end tourists to this area when it opened back in the ’90s), while the latter is a Milanese gemologist who directly oversees the resort’s excellent Bottega Egnazia boutique. (If you haven’t already done enough damage to your wallet in the spa, you won’t fail to be tempted by the store’s curation of handmade ceramics, breezy linen dresses, and locally made slippers.)
What should you try?
Any of the treatments that speak to Vair Spa’s deep-rooted sense of place are worth trying: I especially enjoyed the Mìre body care ritual, involving a scrub and massage inspired by the properties of grapes, such as the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of resveratrol. Personally, though, the real standout was the Roman baths experience. For an hour, you’ll have the full run of an exquisitely beautiful and deeply atmospheric (yes, there are more candles) network of rooms featuring the traditional cycle of pools of varying temperature—the frigidarium, caldarium, and tepidarium—that you would have found in an ancient Roman spa complex, and the experience can also be augmented with full-body mud masks and salt scrubs. Make sure to take whoever you’re traveling with along with you—it’s definitely best enjoyed as a group (or couple’s) activity.
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How environmentally friendly is it?
The Vair Spa uses only local products, and ingredients are natural and simple. Even doing a manicure involves natural local products: a scrub with salt and lemon, and then olive oil to hydrate.
What else do we need to know?
The impressive spa here is augmented by an equally robust fitness offering. There’s a gym kitted out with state-of-the-art equipment (plus two grass and two rubber tennis courts in a glade nearby), as well as classes spanning everything from reformer pilates to traditional Puglian dance. Private yoga sessions can also be arranged upon request, and they’re worth it: The team of local personal trainers on staff here will have you contorting into positions you didn’t even know were possible, carefully tailoring the exercises to help address any aches and pains you might have that week.
Who can go?
Guests of the hotel have access to the sauna, Turkish bath, ice fountain, relax room, indoor pool, and gym; treatments and the Roman baths experience are available to book at an extra cost. There are also day spa packages available via their A Taste of Vair program.
Booking details for Vair Spa
Address: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Savelletri di Fasano BR, Italy
Read more from Vogue’s Global Spa Guide.
