Fashion Week Show Notes: Subtle Symbolism at Valentino Fall 2017

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Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino vision is one of subtlety and a certain notion of discretion. For Fall 2017, he continued down that path, sending out 61 looks—primarily dresses—each easier, roomier, and softer than its predecessor. Prints were a big story here, as were the subdued, elegant colors Piccioli chose for his creations, from a gray-blue to a coral red look that closed the show. Here, five notes to think over about Valentino’s latest while you wait for Sarah Mower’s review.

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The Red Beaded NecklacesMany looks were accented with red beaded necklaces with golden charms hanging down. The jewelry gave each look a vaguely cultish feel, adding to the romantic symbolism of the collection.

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The Hand Prints and Simple MathSeveral of Piccioli’s pieces were printed with hand graphics and numbers. Some of them played out to simple math problems—like the five-plus-one-equals-six equation on look 41—others seemed to hold a more symbolic meaning.

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The Demure SilhouettesSkin? Not so much at this Valentino show. Many looks were high-necked and long-sleeved, with an A-line silhouette that hid any curves or sex appeal. Still, there were a number of sheer pieces that had a sweet sexiness.

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The Sherbet PaletteThe ice-cream colors of Piccioli’s Valentino debut were resurrected here, from a daffodil yellow to a peachy nude. Valentino’s signature pinks and reds were here, too, in bright, orangey shades.

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The Riding Boots and Fur ShoesThis season’s shoes came in the practical and fanciful varieties. In the first category were the lace-up or smooth riding boots worn with many dresses, some with small cutouts to show flashes of skin. In the latter were pastel fur sandals.