I’m not a total philistine when it comes to classic British cuisine. For example, I know that I should always reply “yes” when asked if I want salt and vinegar on my chips. And I am keenly aware that if I order Welsh rabbit, nary a morsel of rabbit meat will arrive on my plate. But up until a few years ago, I was somehow oblivious to the existence of one very popular British dish: beef Wellington.
I’ll assume most anyone interested in food knows what beef Wellington is. But if not (no judgment—see above), here’s a quick lay of the land: this quintessential British delicacy consists of beef tenderloin coated with duxelles, encased in puff pastry. That’s it! But not really, of course. You see, beef Wellington is many things, but to-the-point is not one of them. Sometimes pâté is involved, prosciutto can also be wrapped around the duxelles, and a generous portion of mustard has been known to join the party. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves.
The origin story of beef Wellington, like all great folkloric cuisine, is disputed. The most commonly accepted anecdote is that it was created to celebrate the Duke of Wellington’s victory over Napoleon Bonaparte at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. If you bring a food historian into the mix, they’ll likely argue it was adapted from the French dish, filet de bœuf en croûte (beef fillet in pastry), renamed in defiance after the battle was won. “For me, the exact origin of it matters less than what it stands for today, which is a proper showpiece that people still get excited about,” says Elly Wentworth, executive chef at Fowlescombe Farm in Devon.
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I was first acquainted with the dish in 2022 when my Kiwi father-in-law proposed we all prepare beef Wellington for Christmas. All it took was hearing the words “beef” and “mushrooms” and “puff pastry” strung together for me to sign on immediately. But as I’ve gleaned over the years, beef Wellington is more than an indulgence. It’s a labor of love, and a tradition worth getting to know better.
Beef Wellington’s journey to the culinary hall of fame really takes off in the 20th century when it was frequently served at high-profile banquets and celebratory dinners, or spotted on the menus of the buzziest restaurants in town. In a 1970 New York Times article surveying the most important haute cuisine of the ’60s, it observes “…the public went absolutely zany over such dishes as beef Wellington.” Why? Perhaps because the decadent dish symbolized wealth and sophistication. Expensive ingredients, French-influenced techniques, and a presentational pizzazz all swirled together to create a food trend few could resist. (Lest we forget, this was also the era of the Baked Alaska.) It also doesn’t hurt that Julia Child featured beef Wellington on her popular television show, The French Chef, in 1965, proclaiming that “every once in a while you must do a bang-up fancy dinner.”
But like all food obsessions, beef Wellington’s popularity waxed and waned, eventually declining later in the century, only to be revived once more in the late ’90s by celebrity chefs such as Gordon Ramsay (who has famously declared it his preferred last meal). Now, a quarter of a century later, beef Wellington is decidedly back—both on menus and in the zeitgeist.
In October of last year, after a chaotically brilliant performance of Weer at Cherry Lane Theater, I tucked into a banquette at The Noortwyck in the West Village for their Wine Wellington experience, complemented by roasted shallots and triple-cooked potatoes. The executive chef and owner Andy Quinn grew up with Sunday roasts in England, and wanted to recreate that cozy feeling for guests. “Coming in specifically for the Wellington feels both a bit celebratory and homey at the same time,” he says. “We’ve seen repeat diners make it a standing Sunday tradition, and it’s become a standout dish that people plan around.”
Over in Brooklyn, couples are sidling up at Gage Tollner, where beef Wellington for two is served in a landmark setting dating back to 1879. "Beef Wellington, much like devils on horseback and clams casino, is a throwback, mid-century classic dish that most people will recognize as being special,” executive chef and partner Sohui Kim shares. “We offer a Baked Alaska for two for dessert, so we thought it would make sense to offer beef Wellington for two as well.”
Fouquet’s swanky Tribeca outpost also serves it for two in their Brasserie, accompanied by braised potato, spring roots, and a Madeira jus. Meanwhile, uptown at the newly opened omakase spot Yugin, chef Eugeniu Zubco offers an inventive spin on the dish, in addition to more traditional Wagyu iterations. “I’ve created lobster and scallop Wellingtons,” he says, “as it’s lighter than a traditional beef Wellington and ensures the dish isn’t too heavy.” (Word to the wise: the menu changes daily, request yours well in advance.)
There are tried-and-true institutions like Harry’s in the Financial District, where the kitchen has been presenting beef Wellington with their signature truffle sauce since 1972 (best enjoyed with a martini). Then there are the historic spots that have recently undergone a revival. Over in Colorado Springs, The Broadmoor just reopened its legendary restaurant, The Penrose Room, which first featured beef Wellington on its menu for the grand opening in 1961. Their beef Wellington (spearheaded by executive chef Justin Miller) is carved tableside and served with a house‑made Périgourdine sauce. Then, there’s Fairmont Breakers Long Beach, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year and offers a beef Wellington by chef Max Pfeiffer in the Sky Room restaurant.
Once you start poking around in the beef Wellington universe, it’s only a matter of time before someone suggests The Surf Club Restaurant in Miami by Chef Thomas Keller (located at The Surf Club and next to The Four Seasons at The Surf Club). “The beef Wellington takes me back,” Keller says. “Born in dispute, claimed by the British but possibly invented by Americans, it was the crown jewel of Continental cuisine during the most glamorous era of American dining.” For more than eight decades, The Surf Club epitomized American glamour, playing host to icons like Elizabeth Taylor, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, and Tony Bennett. “Bringing it back to The Surf Club was personal for me,” Keller continues. “At its heart, it is a perfect marriage of ingredients: all day braised prime beef short-ribs, enveloped in earthy mushroom duxelles, and encased in a golden pastry crust. It’s a dish that carries memory, elegance, and a sense of a time when dining felt like a true occasion. Some dishes fade. This one endures.”
Christmas and New Year’s may have come and gone, but I’d argue right now is precisely the best time to enjoy beef Wellington. “It’s comforting and rich, which makes it perfect for the tail end of winter when people are still craving something hearty,” says Quinn, adding that beef Wellington’s specialness also makes it appealing for transitioning to spring’s social dining scene. “It bridges that gap between winter indulgence and spring’s celebratory mood.”
If you’d prefer to skip the middleman altogether and impress your loved ones by whipping up your very own beef Wellington at home, our experts offer a few essential tips.
“There is nothing worse,” Wentworth says, “You absolutely have to make sure you get all of that moisture out of the mushrooms for your duxelles.” One technique she uses is adding large leaf spinach from the garden at Fowlescombe to the duxelles, and making sure to squeeze it out really well.
“Because it is such a celebratory dish, you want to get the best quality ingredients you can find and really play into that,” Wentworth explains. Her non-negotiable is exceptional beef (they use fillet from their own Shorthorn cattle, raised slowly on pasture at the farm). “Wherever your beef comes from, start with the best fillet you can find because good Wellington depends on good beef.”
“Sear your beef to get that caramelized outer, then leave it to cool right down,” Wentworth says, “This is important!” When the beef is completely cold, she says to brush with Dijon mustard then wrap in your duxelles. “Some people like to bring in a layer of parma ham here, and I quite like layering in herbed chicken mousseline if I’m feeling extravagant, but you really can’t go wrong with the classic.” Once that step is complete, wrap it in all-butter pastry, then go as simple or creative as you like with decoration. “I like a lattice, finished with some nice thyme leaves from the garden and sea salt.”
As you’ve probably gathered by now, there are several ways to put your own spin on beef Wellington. “Recently, I switched the classic mushroom duxelles for chopped trevise and chestnuts and lots of rosemary, which gave this British classic a little Italian flair,” says Jess Shadbolt of King. “You can also transition your beef Wellington to the new season by replacing the rich pomme purée with something lighter like asparagus or early spring greens,” Wentworth says, adding: “It’s a great alternative to lamb if you re planning a big Easter celebration.”
