The names of Milan’s best trattorias and taverns are often closely guarded secrets, with locals only sharing them with their closest friends and confidantes. Here, however, Vogue Italia has generously offered up a list of their favorites, neighborhood by neighborhood—all featuring home-cooked flavors and traditional dishes, and many with contemporary design flair.
Milan will always be a city with one eye on the future, reinventing itself every season, but it also has an old soul. And you can see it in the way people eat—what’s old is new again, and traditional trattorias and osterias are currently enjoying a nostalgic embrace of retro Milan.
To put together this guide to the city’s best trattorias, Vogue Italia visited all of the city’s neighborhoods, from Isola to Navigli and from Brera to Porta Romana. If you decide to visit one or many of them, you’ll enjoy a glimpse of the Milan that still happily sits down for long and leisurely meals that stretch on for hours. A tavola!
The northern neighborhoods: Centrale, Repubblica, Porta Nuova, Isola, and Nolo
Inside an elegant Art Nouveau building not far from Porta Nuova, chef Andrea Provenzani has created a restaurant with an atmosphere that is both cozy and refined. It includes several different rooms: the main dining room, a romantic balcony, and an open kitchen. The menu is Mediterranean at heart, but its signature dishes are all Milanese. Noteworthy items include Milanese risotto with marrow and licorice, in a cream sauce with 36-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano and Navelli saffron, and the thick Milanese veal cutlet, served with fresh potato chips, homemade ketchup, and honey mustard. Among the appetizers, the veal and mortadella mondeghili with soft potatoes and salsa verde stands out, while among the primi piatti, the chitarrino pasta with fresh anchovies, saffron, raisins, pine nuts, and toasted bread is a must-order. The Libertyramisù closes the meal with mascarpone cream, coffee semifreddo, and crumble. Three tasting menus (La Mia Milano, Origine e Tradizione, Contaminazione-Evoluzione) also allow you to explore Provenzani’s cuisine on a journey that begins with cherished culinary memories and leads up to the present.
The name of this trattoria comes from a fictional trattoria in the 1978 Italian cult film starring Renato Pozzetto, Lo Tigro, Tu Tigri, Egli Tigra (I Roar, You Roar, He Roars), and the atmosphere is a mix of Lombard lightheartedness and authentic flavors. Open for just two years and located between Centrale and Porta Nuova, La Semivuota has already become a favorite of those seeking to experience the real Milan, with dishes that have disappeared from many other menus like saffron risotto, bruscitti with polenta or mashed potatoes, and mondeghili made with boiled meat. “We have revived the dishes we love, the ones we ate as children,” says the owner, Mauro Invernizzi. The atmosphere is reminiscent of old tavernas with red checkered tablecloths, exposed brick walls, and a warm welcome extended to all diners. The details reveal a deep love for trattorias’ traditional decor: The counter, for example, is made from 19th-century shutters, and the cash register rests on a stand also made of reclaimed wood. Many of Chef Federico Spagnoli’s recipes were handed down to him by his 96-year-old grandmother, who taught him that the secret to dishes like ossobuco is to cook them “for a long time and at a low temperature so they’ll remain very tender.” The Milanese cutlet is authentic, cooked to perfection, and wonderfully juicy. The desserts are made by Invernizzi’s wife; the pan meini with rüsumada (a sweet bread served with a foamy cream made with eggs, sugar, and wine) recalls the flavors of yesteryear, and here you can taste a truly authentic panna cotta made without gelatin or thickeners and with a caramel that forms naturally during cooking. “You’ve never tasted anything like it,” the chef assures us. (He’s right.) Another plus? The very reasonable prices will leave you smiling when you get the bill.
Opposite the Bosco Verticale building, Ratanà is inside an early 20th-century Art Nouveau villa that managed to survive the transformation of Porta Nuova. It was formerly a cinema and later a tram depot. Today, it has become one of the symbols of a contemporary Milan that never forgets its roots. Chef Cesare Battisti prepares Milanese and Lombard dishes updated with creativity and a respect for their raw ingredients. The atmosphere is lively and casual, with seating at the counter and an outdoor area overlooking the Biblioteca Degli Alberi Park. Among the most popular dishes are the old-style Milanese risotto with gremolata and a roast gravy, served with ossobuco croquettes, mondeghili in cartoccio, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovies, and Garronese beef tartare with piennolo tomato cream. The cutlet is not on the menu and must be ordered at least two days in advance. At lunchtime, from Monday to Friday, there is the schiscèta special, a Milanese business lunch consisting of a single dish served with wine, water, and coffee at a fixed price.
In the Isola district, Testina offers a modern take on a trattoria. The decor mixes industrial and traditional Milan details, while the risotto with ossobuco and gremolata is considered one of the best in the city—as is the classic Milanese cutlet (“la Milano”) served with black flake salt and French fries. Among the appetizers, in addition to the mondeghili with pea cream and lemon zest, the oven-baked veal head au gratin with bread, caramelized onions, and salsa verde stands out (it’s also the dish that gave the restaurant its name). Risotto al salto, cassoeula, and braised beef with polenta are all examples of the no-frills Milanese cuisine that the restaurant excels at. The wine list is extensive and well-curated, offering some excellent values. The service is friendly and attentive, with chef Silvano Ghezzi and owner Massimo Motola always ready to recommend and describe dishes. The prices are reasonable, especially considering that the dishes are so full of memory and passion.
Just a stone’s throw from the Arena Civica, this family-run restaurant is a favorite of Milan’s fashion world. Riccardo and his team have managed to preserve the authentic spirit of a traditional trattoria. The Milanese cutlet is delicious and crispy, and made with high-quality ingredients. The menu changes daily according to the availability of seasonal products, with risottos, fresh pasta, and meat dishes always available and cooked with passion. The deconstructed tiramisu has become a local favorite. It offers unbeatable value in the heart of one of Milan’s coolest districts.
The city center neighborhoods (Duomo, Tribunale, Brera, Moscova, and Garibaldi)
Behind an unremarkable storefront in the city center, sitting between lawyers’ offices and a courthouse, there’s an often-overlooked culinary destination. The Antica Hostaria della Lanterna probably began as a simple tavern in the late 19th century, before undergoing a transformation. Since January 1997, it has been run by the Oldani family—mother Paola, daughter Ambra, and son Federico. Originally from Magenta on the outskirts of the city, they added classic Lombard dishes from their region to the previous menu. The osteria has always offered gnocchi with gorgonzola and pistachio (considered the best in town), rigatoni with sausage, penne with tomato sauce, goulash, veal with herbs, and ossobuco with polenta. The pasta is handmade every day, all the ingredients are fresh, and if you arrive too late, you risk finding that many dishes have sold out. Signora Paola, now a fleeting presence, is always busy when she is at the restaurant, chatting with guests. Now Ambra is in charge, expertly running the kitchen. There is no written menu: when you arrive at your table, you’ll be told what the kitchen has to offer that day. Don t come here if you’re on a diet, as all the portions are generous. The service may be slow sometimes, but the quality of the dishes makes up for the wait. The cuisine is perfect for cold weather, when a glass of wine aids digestion and lifts the spirits, and even tourists merely passing through Milan are given a warm welcome.
In the Milanese dialect, ciumbia means “wow”—an expression of wonder that perfectly suits this trattoria, which took the word for its name. Opened in 2024 by the Triple Sea Food holding company (led by Leonardo Maria Del Vecchio), Trattoria del Ciumbia is part of the new gastronomic scene that’s emerged on Via Fiori Chiari, along with Vesta and Casa Fiori Chiari. Dimorestudio’s design is inspired by 1960s bars that were popular with Milan’s artistic avant-garde of the time with walnut paneling, custom mosaic tiles, and a pewter counter with brass vitrines showcasing dishes reassembled by artisan Anita Cerrato using the Japanese technique of kintsugi. There are 100 seats on two floors, plus an underground private club. Chef Paolo Rollini offers Lombard cuisine with ingredients sourced from small local producers ranging from the micro rice fields of Pavia to the butchers of Brianza. The menu includes mondeghili wrapped in cabbage leaves, chicken liver pâté, nervetti salad, Monza-style risotto with luganega sausage, sautéed rice, cassoeula, tripe with borlotti beans, stewed Valtellina snails, lasagnetta al bollito, a thick bone-in cutlet, and ossobuco with saffron risotto. The prices are surprisingly affordable, especially for the area.
Michele De Liguoro carries on a family tradition started by his great-grandfather, Pierino, and passed down to his grandmother, Patrizia, and his mother, Cinzia. Since 2002, this restaurant has changed addresses twice—from its historic location behind Brera to Garibaldi, to its current home between Sant’Agostino and Sant’Ambrogio—but its soul has stayed constant. New for 2024 is an open counter with 22 seats where you can watch the dishes being prepared. The philosophy is simple with a focus on cucina della nonna or “grandmother s cooking,” with recipes from across Italy. They all share one trait in common, however: They’re delicious. The tagliatelle with Bra sausage ragù is perfect in its classic simplicity. The wine cellar includes 800 labels, including some French gems. The restaurant delivers substantial cuisine that’s never fussy, in a lively bistro atmosphere.
It looked briefly like this Milanese institution might be lost forever. Founded in the 1960s and run since 1965 by Maria and Arturo Maggi, La Latteria closed in December 2023 after almost 60 years serving classic Milanese dishes. In November 2024, it reopened thanks to Vittoria Loro Piana, who preserved its identity intact: the same nine tables seat about 30 people, the same multicolored tile floor remains, and there’s the same menu that changes daily. The famously strict rules also remain: no reservations, and it’s always closed on weekends. Arturo, the master chef, continues to use only silver pans to cook certain dishes (according to him, the pans make the food easier to digest). While the menu changes, you can expect to find some legendary dishes like the spaghetti with lemon and chili pepper; eggs cooked in a silver pan with mullet bottarga; pumpkin and sturgeon gnocchi, tuna and squid (also cooked in a silver pan); Artusi-style meatloaf; Tuscan chickpea soup; and seasonal vegetables such as trombetta zucchini with oil and mustard, and puntarelle (Italian chicory) with anchovies. It’s a restaurant beloved by figures from the worlds of fashion, design, and architecture who were thrilled to see it reopen. The prices are not exactly cheap, but the experience is worth it.
Located in the heart of the city, on the pedestrianized Corso Garibaldi, Osteria Brunello is a modern reinterpretation of a traditional osteria, with a familiar and convivial atmosphere. The restaurant is bright and recently renovated, while the kitchen serves contemporary Italian dishes that never feel too fussy. The signature dish is the authentic Milanese cutlet, which has won numerous awards and was named Italy’s best in the 2015 edition of the restaurant and wine guide, Gambero Rosso. Chef Vittorio Ronchi also offers risotto alla milanese, risotto with ossobuco, spaghettone with three tomatoes, homemade pasta (gnocchi and ravioli), vitello tonnato, chicken liver pâté with brioche and mulled wine gel, and tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovies. The real standout is the wine cellar: over 200 labels selected by sommelier Tunde, with particular attention to Brunello and Montalcino wines (hence the name), but also Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and wines from small niche producers. The prices, although above average, are justified by the quality.
The eastern neighborhoods and Porta Romana (Porta Venezia, Città Studi, Porta Romana, XXII Marzo)
In the heart of Casoretto, this very Milanese trattoria is the result of a fortuitous meeting between Juan Lema, a Uruguayan chef who discovered his passion for cooking in Italy, and Cristina Borgherini, a Milanese native born in the neighborhood. The name of the restaurant is a tribute to Mirta, Lema’s mother, who “always knew how to whip something up even when there was little or nothing in the fridge” and who passed on her love of waste-free cooking to her son. The casual atmosphere includes red terrazzo floors, wooden tables, and straw chairs seating 45 diners inside, plus another 30 outdoors (open only in the summer). The clientele is loyal, “everyone knows each other,” and when you step inside, you feel like you’ve arrived in someone’s home. The kitchen’s philosophy reflects Mirta’s teachings: every part of every ingredient is used and transformed into delicious dishes. The mondeghili are baked (never fried) and served with salad and yogurt sauce, veal tripe becomes a tasty stew, the chicken liver pâté is a classic homestyle spread, and the bread pudding gets an added plus with some raisins. The menu changes frequently according to the seasons and market availability, and the bread and desserts are always homemade. Lema and Borgherini move among the tables like hosts greeting old friends.
Ten years after opening, Trippa has become a must-dine in Milan. Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli have created a trattoria that has redefined the genre. With its simple setting with a retro touch, bistro chairs, and an informal atmosphere, it’s always full (booking well in advance is essential). Rossi’s cuisine celebrates offal and traditional Italian preparations: fried tripe with rosemary is an iconic favorite, the veal with tuna sauce is a classic Milanese dish, and the Piedmontese Fassona beef tartare with hazelnuts is mouthwatering. The menu changes daily according to market availability and seasonality: You’ll find soups with traditional herbs, offal in every sauce, and every Thursday, gnocchi and tiramisu as a dessert special. Caroli’s selection of natural wines perfectly accompanies the dishes. The restaurant has a young and contemporary soul that attracts chefs from all over the world: Ferran Adrià has dined here, and it received a Bib Gourmand from Michelin.
Located in Porta Romana, Acquabella has been a piece of Milanese working-class history since 1950. Its original owner conceived it as a place for workers to eat and drink, alongside regulars playing cards. The atmosphere is that of a traditional restaurant: terracotta floors, exposed brickwork, pastel-colored walls, solid wood tables and chairs, and lamps hanging from the ceiling. Mottos in the local Milanese dialect and vintage photographs complete the decor. The menu consists of classic Milanese dishes: saffron risotto, ossobuco, Milanese cutlet with potatoes, nervetti, tripe, cassoeula, and mondeghili. Similarly, the wine list emphasizes Lombardy producers. Generous portions and fair prices make it a favorite of both workers who come here at lunch and gourmets in search of Milan’s most authentic cuisine in the evenings. You can count on friendly, family-style service in a welcoming environment.
Since 1921, four generations of the Masuelli family have run this trattoria, which has become a Milanese institution. Founded by grandfather Francesco and his wife, Virginia, originally from Masio in Italy’s Piedmont region, it has been at its current location on Viale Umbria since 1930. Inside, Gio Ponti chandeliers from the 1930s and Art Deco furnishings transport you to another era. The cuisine combines Lombard and Piedmontese traditions: Solare (veal Milanese with saffron risotto) is the signature dish and the menu also includes pasta and beans, agnolotti del plin with roast sauce, fried veal brains, ossobuco, and cutlets with ultra-crispy breading. The classic tiramisu with mascarpone cream is not to be missed. Massimiliano Masuelli, part of the third generation of the family to run the restaurant, presides in the kitchen. The atmosphere is elegant without being too formal.
West and southwest Milan (De Angeli, Washington, Tortona, Navigli)
In the Milanese countryside of ancient Gratum Solium—now Gratosoglio—where the croaking of countless colonies of frogs was once a constant backdrop, one of Milan’s most magical restaurants has operated since 1991. “Garghet” means “croaking of frogs” in the Milanese dialect and, even today in the summertime, you can often hear the sound echoing in the large flower garden where dinner is served. The main building dates back to the 13th century and was originally a tavern with a dance hall. “I fell in love with this place at first sight.” Over 10 rooms and outdoor spaces welcome guests with tartan-style tablecloths, fabric lampshades, fireplaces lit in winter, hanging light fixtures, and candles that complete the atmosphere. The typical Lombard cuisine is entrusted to executive chef Luca Mauri and celebrates the recipes of Cipolla’s childhood: mondeghili, nervetti, risotto giallo, ossobuco, rognone, cassoeula, and rustin negàa (veal knuckles slow cooked in a wine broth). The most famous dish is the cutlet, offered in two versions: the Costoletta alla Milanese (a veal cutlet with the fat trimmed and breaded, then cooked in butter), and the Cotoletta del Garghet Orecchia d’Elefante (“elephant ear”), which follows Cipolla’s mother’s recipe (pork loin beaten until very thin, a preparation created after the war to stretch small quantities of meat). Pasta, vegetable soups, and desserts are homemade with the best and freshest ingredients. Despite the largely carnivorous focus, vegetarian and gluten-free options are available. Reservations are taken up to a year in advance, but it’s worth planning ahead to experience the fairytale atmosphere.
In the De Angeli neighborhood, Osteria dei Malnat describes itself as serving “alpine cuisine” and celebrates Lombardy’s biodiversity with a tribute to products from Italy’s mountains: dairy products from alpine cows, as well as potatoes and vegetables from small farms. The restaurant has a wooden-beamed ceiling and an open kitchen, where you can watch the dishes being prepared. The atmosphere is warm and colorful, and the menu features traditional recipes from Milan and the surrounding region: rustic polenta crostini made with lard, wild boar ragù with a Parmesan sauce, Milanese risotto served with braised marrow cream, pumpkin tortelli with gorgonzola and bitter cocoa sauce, and Bergamo-style casoncelli. Main courses include Milanese cutlet, ossobuco, cassoeula, and rustin negàa with chestnuts. Chef Simone Marchisio revisits Lombard tradition with original combinations. The portions are generous, and the atmosphere makes you feel right at home.
Originally founded in 1870 as a club for railway workers, Osteria del Binari has been one of Milan’s most charming venues for more than a century. Housed in a period building with large stone fireplaces, old-school bars, and five rooms on two levels, the restaurant retains a romantic old-Milan atmosphere. Cesare Denti, a former textile industrialist, transformed the space into an elegant restaurant where celebrated Italian chefs Gualtiero Marchesi and Davide Oldani both worked. Today, Denti’s son Matteo runs the restaurant. The kitchen offers Milanese specialties: risotto al salto, cotoletta alla milanese, ossobuco, and mondeghili, alongside innovative dishes such as paccheri with shellfish. The wine list is impressive, with over 800 selections. In summer, the large, magnificent garden with walls covered in vines is the perfect setting for an al fresco meal. In winter, the rooms with lit fireplaces create an intimate and cozy atmosphere.
Trattoria Madonnina has operated at its current location since 1722, making it one of the oldest trattorias in Milan. The name derives from the wooden shrine to the Virgin Mary on the facade, which protected travelers heading to the Gentilino cemetery. Where the building’s stable once stood, you can now dine outdoors under a lush pergola. The interior is a step back in time, with a display case of old glassware and radios, walls with vintage posters, checkered tablecloths, and a 1960s counter. Giuseppe Di Stefano, the great tenor, lived in another part of the building as a child and was discovered at La Madonnina at the age of 13. Today, Angela, Tommaso, Pasquale, and Mauro carry on the Lombard family tradition of cooking, preparing dishes of Milanese risotto, cotoletta, cassoeula, ossobuco, and gnocchi with gorgonzola. The trattoria has the welcoming atmosphere of a sports bar, generous portions, and fair prices.
This restaurant on Via Conchetta has been open since 1885, and it’s become an icon of Milanese cuisine. Chef and owner Pietro Paolo Tateo (known to everyone as Pier) has been presiding over this corner of old Milan for almost 30 years. It was even frequented by the notorious mob boss Renato Vallanzasca and members of the Milanese underworld in the 1970s. The atmosphere is simple but refined, and it’s located just steps from the Naviglio Pavese canal. The cuisine reflects a romantic fixation on Milanese classics: mondeghili with Bernese sauce, Riserva San Massimo risotto with saffron, butter, and 36-month-old Grana Padano cheese; veal ossobuco with marrow; two versions of cutlet; and cassoeula with verzini, ribs, pork rind, and savoy cabbage. Pier learned much of his craft from Maurizio Ghiringhelli, sous chef to Alfredo Valli at Alfredo-Gran San Bernardo. The tagliatelle with veal ragù, Grana foam, and beef jus is completely satisfying. Soft lighting makes the atmosphere feel especially intimate.
In the picturesque Vicolo dei Lavandai (an alley with a historic washhouse at its center, near the Naviglio Grande canal), this romantic restaurant is in an 18th-century house. The premises were once an old grocery store run by Maria Bambina until the 1950s, where those washing clothes could purchase brushes, soap, and even hot water. Today, El Brellin preserves some of Milan’s history in its five rooms on two floors, with fireplaces, coffered ceilings, and views of the canal. The cuisine combines Milanese specialties and reimagined Lombard recipes: traditional saffron risotto with veal sauce and gremolata di midollo, ravioli stuffed with shrimp with pumpkin cream and burrata, potato and beet gnocchi with venison, and goat cheese fondue. The restaurant can seat up to 200 people and is ideal for romantic candlelit dinners and even receptions. In summer, the garden overlooking the Naviglio is one of the most picturesque spots in Milan. With its atmosphere of times gone by, El Brellin combines a charming historic setting and dishes prepared with passion.
