Expansion is on the agenda chez Stine Goya, and in the course of a couple years the company has opened new offices and a shop in London. Seemingly in parallel, the offering has come to feel more dressy, more in keeping with a big-city vibe than the more casual cool of Copenhagen, but for spring 2024 the designer shifted her focus back to Denmark with a collection called Homecoming.
There’s no set definition of “home.” It can be a place, or even a feeling, Goya noted in an interview. She considered the idea from a drone’s viewpoint as well as from up-close, inviting people to the apple tree-lined street on which she lives. All the neighbors agreed to using their enclave for the undertaking, and there were faces pressed against windows watching the show from the comfort of their own abodes.
The set design consisted of a long series of made-for-Instagram tables, laid with clothes, cutlery, and china on which sat jellied dishes, flowers, and loaves of bread. This was Goya’s literal take on the idea of Homecoming, and to drive home the message she brought along two old friends, Helena Christensen and Camilla Staerk, to walk the show.
In terms of design, Goya didn’t abandon her roots, but she didn’t reissue vintage pieces or otherwise go back deep into prints. The only checkerboard sweaters were seen on members of the audience. There were some wonderful ombre denims, and the use of print on sportier separates was smart and fun, as was the neon tailoring. Strap and button details were recurring techniques.
If only Goya had leaned in here and featured the more casual but polished pieces that would work for the school run or having a drink with a neighbor after the kids were tucked in. After all, the idyllic-looking (life)style the designer enjoys at home is sure to be draw for people in the markets the company might expand into. Nevertheless there were plenty of garments to raise a glass to here.
