After Camilla Stærk saw Patti Smith live a few months ago, it led her back to Smith s famed Mapplethorpe portrait, and in short order, Stærk was waist-deep in the photographer s work. "I ve always loved his pictures," said the designer at her joint presentation with her friend, menswear designer Victor Glemaud. "They re so strong but still so sensitive." That s a pretty apt description of Stærk s 14 Fall looks, which merged the tough edges of black leather, mesh tank tops, and a general sense of naughtiness with lace, tweed, and ladylike polish. A black, sleek leather-look jersey shell was inset with lace. A properly soigné high-waisted pencil skirt was paired with a sheer corset. Even the lovely aluminum floral brooches (from Japanese designer Shinji Nakaba) that were pinned on both lean gowns and motorcycle jackets played the strong-yet-sensitive card. Every season has seen Stærk deepening her moody, dark signatures, but the new elegance here is a delightful evolution.
