The portrait-filled book Us and Them, an encapsulation of the relationship and work of husband-and-wife photographers June and Helmut Newton, was Camilla Stærk s point of entry for Fall. "I love his woman," she said, referring to all the femmes fatales Helmut photographed obsessively. "It s very me, in a way." For Stærk, that means lots of black leather, and a certain moody, broody sensibility. A Newtown-esque toughness was apparent at her presentation, given jointly this season with friend and menswear designer Victor Glemaud. Red and nude leather ties worn under all-black outfits had a graphic appeal perfect for the pages of a magazine; how they d fare commercially is another matter.
With leather making its way into seemingly everyone s collection this season, Stærk worked at giving hers a standout fluidity: A pair of nude pants that tapered at the ankle had the easy drape of sweatpants. For something a little fiercer, a suede-look jersey dress with saddle-inspired leather epaulets should fit the bill.
