A frosty staircase in the middle of a snowy forest was the theatrical entrance of the Dsquared2 sports-inspired fall runway. It was a clear nod to the Winter Olympics, which are about to take place here in Milan and Cortina in just a few weeks, and also an homage to the smash-hit series Heated Rivalry (one of its protagonists, Hudson Williams, made his runway debut opening the show). Dean and Dan Caten have always been strongly influenced by winter sports, and together with their Canadian heritage, these themes guided this collection.
Exaggerated volumes played a central role, with incredibly oversized puffer jackets proposed in color-block versions or covered in bedazzling crystals. A shiny effect was also achieved with transparent sequins on denim separates, which almost looked iced. Vintage ski aesthetics, especially from the ’70s, were reinterpreted through intarsia jumpers and zipped cardigans featuring inlaid snowboarders, skiers, and gold medals. With maxi fur coats and shearlings, they explored après-ski vibes in a glamorous way, while padded nylon overpants and hybrid square-toe ski boots introduced their signature cowboy references.
For the womenswear the Caten brothers also touched on technical and sports-inspired themes but through a more couture-like approach. Oversized duvet and bomber jackets featured maxi bows and fur collars, and corsets and even minidresses were constructed with disassembled jacket parts. At the finale, ski suits reinterpreted in latex had a futuristic feel, emphasized by ski boots reworked into a sculptural, heelless cyberpunk style.
