Hamish Bowles’s Not-for-Tourists Guide to Bermuda
The island of Bermuda is like a piece of candy on a confectioner’s board—a marzipan island of soft pink-sand beaches, aquamarine waters, and limestone cottages painted in kaleidoscopic Easter-egg hues. It’s a pastel paradise, from the historic early colonial architecture to charming centuries-old shops and brightly colored Bermuda shorts. Here, a few of the off-the-beaten-path, locals-only spots Hamish Bowles visited on his recent trip to the charming and idyllic isle.
Photo: Courtesy of Hamish Bowles1/8St. George’s
The oldest town in Bermuda, St. George’s is a UNESCO World Heritage site where colorful houses, churches, and museums date back to as early as 1612. Start with a walk along York Street, where there’s an eclectic mix of early colonial architecture and English Regency thrown in for good measure. Charming narrow alleys with quaint street names continue to meander throughout St. George’s. Be sure to wander down Featherbed Alley, Shinbone Alley, Petticoat Lane, Blockade Alley, and Old Maid’s Lane. A few historic spots not to be missed include the 1620 State House, Ebenezer Methodist Church, the Old Rectory, St. Peter’s Church, and the fern-covered steps of the St. George’s Historical Society Museum and Printery that dates from 1731.
Photo: Courtesy of Hamish Bowles2/8The HMS Vixen Shipwreck
One of the best ways to explore Bermuda is by boat—go see the HMS Vixen shipwreck, a sunken Royal Navy gunboat from the 1860s that can be spotted in the channel off the coast of Daniel’s Head. There are about 300 shipwrecks marooned along the outer reefs of the island, but the Vixen is one of the few you can spot without scuba diving or snorkeling gear.
Photo: Courtesy of Hamish Bowles3/8Warwick Long Bay
There are dozens of beaches tucked along Bermuda’s 75 miles of coastline, but one of the most secluded is Warwick Long Bay—a long, idyllic half-a-mile stretch of pink sand against a backdrop of grape and cedar trees. To the right of it is Jobson’s Cove, a dramatic, rocky natural swimming pool that’s a favorite among the locals. (The water is so clear that you can often see colorful parrot fish in the water.)
Photo: Courtesy of Hamish Bowles4/8Astwood Cove
Just behind Astwood Park in Warwick Parish on Bermuda’s beach-lined South Shore is a beautiful hidden cove where rock formations are shaped like seashells and turquoise waters meet the soft-sand shoreline. A winding set of ledgelike stairs carved into limestone rock leads down to the beach at Astwood Cove. It’s completely off the beaten path.
Photo: Courtesy of Hamish Bowles5/8Hamilton Princess Beach Club
Known as the Pink Palace, this grand hotel was built in 1885. (Mark Twain used to smoke cigars on its verandas and putter around the property in a cart pulled by a donkey named Maude.) Its classic pink exterior now stands in sharp contrast to the minimalist columned lobby, where works by artists from Andy Warhol to Tom Wesselmann give the space the feel of an airy, modern art gallery. Pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, Yayoi Kusama, David Hockney, Jeff Koons, Alexander Calder, Jasper Johns, and Nelson Mandela are tucked and hidden alongcorridors in the sprawling wings of the hotel.