Runway

The Top Trends of The Fall 2016 Couture Shows

There must be something in the water—how else to explain the romantic, nostalgic spirit that ran through the Fall 2016 Couture collections shown in Paris, Rome, and Naples? Empire waistlines, ’40s-style suiting, and elegant plissé pleating were among the throwback trends to make a return this season, along with time-tested techniques like lacework, featherwork, and elaborate floral embellishments.

In sharp relief to these ethereal trends was a new interest in denim, that plebeian stuff, and the appearance of supersize hoop earrings on several catwalks. This disparity between fairy princesses and fresh-to-death trends might say something about the new couture consumer herself—she’s the kind of woman who’s a guest at black-tie balls and courtside at NBA games alike.

Here, we hone in on nine trends, high to low, that ruled the couture collections. You never know, they might just turn up on the top runways this September too.

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    Photos: Courtesy of Indigital
    1/9

    The Empire Strikes Back

    Empress Joséphine, Napoleon’s well-clad missus, would have had a field day with the Fall 2016 Couture collections. The stylist royal favored an empire waist in her day; today, Fendi, Dolce Gabbana, and Giambattista Valli are remaking the high-waist silhouette for a modern woman.

    Pictured from left: Fendi, Dolce Gabbana, Giambattista Valli

  • Photos: Courtesy of Indigital
    2/9

    Suiting, ’40s Style

    Peaked shoulders, nipped waists, and slim pencil skirts or trousers appeared at Elie Saab, Schiaparelli, and Jean Paul Gaultier this season, making the case that the dramatic look of ’40s tailoring is poised for a comeback. The good news: No pin-curls required.

    Pictured from left: Elie Saab, Schiaparelli, Jean Paul Gaultier

  • Photos: Courtesy of Indigital
    3/9

    Flights of Fancy

    Featherwork is one of the standard metiers used in couture, but this season, designers went above and beyond, using plumes in innovative and exciting new ways. At Giles Deacon’s Couture debut, this meant covering a dress in ostrich plumage, while at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld kitted out his bride in tufts of delicate apricot-color feathers.

    Pictured from left: Giles Deacon, Chanel, Givenchy

  • Photos: Courtesy of Indigital
    4/9

    Denim Days

    Jeans at couture?! Believe it. Dolce Gabbana, Viktor Rolf, and Ronald van der Kemp all reimagined the everyday staple as something extraordinary by using embellishments, unusual weaving techniques, or recycled materials. Considering Kanye West wore jeans to this year’s Met Gala, you might want to keep an eye out for one of these styles at next year’s affair.

    Pictured from left: Dolce Gabbana, Viktor Rolf, Ronald van der Kemp

  • Photos: Courtesy of Indigital
    5/9

    Pretty, Pretty Pleats

    Plissé pleats brought a lightness to the Couture shows in Paris. At Dior, a series of finale dresses were made from folding and cutting the micro-pleats, while Iris van Herpen crafted weightless dresses from tiny folds. Even J. Mendel’s hefty beaded gowns were finished with plissé flounces in a rainbow of hues.

    Pictured from left: Dior, Iris van Herpen, J. Mendel

Steff Yotka is Vogue’s Global Director of Social Media. She has worked at Vogue since 2015, primarily reporting on fashion industry news, trends, and happenings under the aegis of Vogue Runway. Currently, she oversees and leads Vogue’s unified global social media presence, while continuing to review fashion collections around the ... Read More
TopicsFall 2016 Couture