See More Than Just Tulum: An Insider’s Guide to the Yucatán Peninsula from Nicolas Malleville
There are real adventures to be had mystical cenotes, fabled ruins—just a few hours drive from the picture-perfect beach.
It was about a decade ago that the fashion crowd embraced Tulum, a tiny stretch of beach in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. Thick jungle abuts sand like powdered sugar—in a game of word association, one might immediately call it “paradise.” Since then, Tulum has grown up, and if you’re reading this, there is a good chance that visiting would lead to bumping into acquaintances strolling down the beach, perhaps on their way to stand in line at a no-reservations restaurant that has more in common with Momofuku than any local’s favorite. And yet, there are real adventures to be had—mystical cenotes, fabled ruins—just a few hours drive from the picture-perfect beach.
Enter Nicolas Malleville, a former model and Yucatán transplant who grew up in Argentina. Along with his equally stunning wife, Francesca Bonato, he is the proprietor of Coqui Coqui, the super chic hotel group and perfumeria with four locations spread across the peninsula. With plenty of experience in and around the environs, Malleville is able to recommend peninsular secrets from the colonial trade city of Mérida, to the Yellow City of Izamal, to a remote lagoon retreat down the road from the more popular destinations. Here, a look at some of Nico’s favorite places.
Photo: Courtesy of @jorgedelap / Jorge Peña Smith1/9Hacienda Uayamon, Campeche
There’s not yet a Coqui Coqui location in the state of Campeche, on the west coast of the Yucatán, which makes the Hacienda Uayamon the best bet for a hotel in this region. Built in 1700, this five-star sustainable resort retains every charm of a grand colonial home.
Photo: Courtesy of @th3funk / Carolina Sosa2/9Apoala Mexican Cuisine, Mérida
Sometimes jokingly described as the only authentic Mexican restaurant in the city of Mérida, Apoala is also known as its best. Stuffed squash blossoms and barbacoa tacos are highlights of this little Oaxacan-style eatery set on Parque Santa Lucia. But really, everything here is excellent (including their New Year’s Eve party, which this writer attended last year).
Photo: Courtesy of @perlaramos3/9Café Alameda, Merida
Two blocks away from Apoala is the Café Alameda, offering authentically unfussy Lebanese dishes that have a Mexican flair. There is a surprisingly dense Middle Eastern population in Merida, giving Alameda’s menu a home-cooked advantage.
Photo: Courtesy of @victorcancino / Victor Cancino4/9Convento de San Antonio, Izamal
One of the more overlooked gems of the Yucatán is Izamal, about 45 miles from Mérida. There, in 1561, Spanish missionaries built one of the first monasteries in the Western hemisphere, repurposing stones from the demolished Ppapp Hol Chac pyramid. Izamal is known as the Yellow City, as much of the local architecture mimics the mustard-colored convent.
Photo: Courtesy of @gianlucalongogg / Gianluca Longo5/9Convent Route, Campeche to Valladolid
If one Spanish monastery isn’t enough, look into the Convent Route, a series of nine sites ranging from colonial churches to Mayan villages that can be visited in quick succession (distances between them range from ten to 45 minutes). It’s a day trip that will ensure your<span class="s3" vacation’s</span history quotient is not lacking.
